Chanel Haute Couture F/W 2024.25 Paris

[Grets]

Something about the 80s-ness and the bride gave me Virginie. It also felt gen-z coded with the excess bows, also very Chanel but it felt like the Studio team enhanced it. Makes me think Virginie left abruptly, especially since her last show was such a tragedy. Also interesting no Rianne Van Rompaey, Vivienne Rohner or Jill Kortleve

 

[VogueDisciple93]

It’s better but it’s not good… There are some truly unfortunate looks and pieces here. Every single thing in tweed is clunky, heavy, swallows the models. The capes were the beautiful standouts. I also think the bareface makeup only drags the glamour of the collection down, it all looks incomplete.

They really got me excited with the promo shoot just to disappoint me again. Who do I speak to about returning the joy I wasted?

 

[fenty]

Still a lot of work needs to be done but considering they had to finalize the collection (couture at that) without a director, they have my respect!

 

[Urban Stylin]

I loved the theatre that was missing from shows lately. They cast the right models that knew how to walk, had a mix tape for the show and played with lighting and location. The clothes also felt less frumpy than the previous designer's collections which was refreshing.

 

[WAVES]

it’s as if every single piece is still pinned and not properly adjusted or fitted and waiting to go under the sewing machine.

having the beautiful Vittoria opening plus the first tailleurs when in movement do trick one to think that it’s all properly cinched when it’s actually not.
that first (and the ones that followed) vinyl look/s made my entire skin crawl.
the usual passé vibe remains as noticeable as before never forgetting the also unfortunate but unequivocal frumpiness.
the capes were mere distractions.

and of course, the bride dress: absolutely HEINOUS. I’ve never wanted this bad to be a Cinderella sister just so I could tear it apart.
the Haute Couture comité should fine her and forbid her of doing HC ever again.

 

[blackcherrified]

I think 18-year-old Diana Spencer would really be in love with that wedding dress if it was presented in the 80s… not Princess Diana of the 90s and we are living in 2024…

 

[Overindulgence]

It is not perfect, because it still doesn't quite appear haute couture to my eyes, but a weight has been lifted in a sense. I watched the whole show, which I haven't done for Chanel in years.

I know it's not worth it to bring up Karl but I can't help but compare it to him. For some reason this look stuck out to me, it just felt like a look Karl would have had in his 2000s shows (albeit shortened). This look also reminded me of the opening of Cruise 2010. Sara Grace's look and the velvet suit were also nice. And the bows clipped to the back of the hair on every model's look reminded me of FW 2006 (my fave show from Karl and a collection that I have seen experiencing some attention from people on Tik Tok).

I'm not sure what it was. Was Virginie unhappy with her role from the start? Even if she had her hand in this specific collection, the energy of the show just felt so different compared to previous shows.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

This is definitely Virginie's team but I don't know if she had a hand in this.

Because it's actually kind of decent. In fact, there are parts of it I like (mind you, I like boring old lady clothes).

But there IS something about it overall that is just so stale and stuffy,

Yes, this is so much better than what Virginie was doing but it's still not good enough.

 

[bennyboy]

Love this collection, I see Karl in it

 

[Alquimista]

It's hard to describe or my english is too limited, but there is something strange, almost uncanny about this show. I feel like this is the real first show after Karl's death, physical and creative death. Virginie probably had a hand in this but I don't see it. The lightness of the shapes, some of the fabrics, it seems after her and Karl. I'm exaggerating but yeah I cannot not feel it. It's like the house is back to square zero and it have to prove it's relevance again.

Chanel is part of the flow of time. Just like all of us.

A historical show.

 

[Darko]

Ok models still looks fat
This screams VV all the way

 

[PDFSD]

Its funny how VV even when she just left and factually worked on this till 19 days ago, it pains people to give credit on parts they might like of this show lol.....venue and direction included.

Confirmation bias is a human thing i understand, but its funny to see it in action.
( Confirmation bias describes our underlying tendency to notice, focus on, and provide greater credence to evidence that fit our existing beliefs.)

 

[Overindulgence]

It's hard to describe or my english is too limited, but there is something strange, almost uncanny about this show. I feel like this is the real first show after Karl's death, physical and creative death. Virginie probably had a hand in this but I don't see it. The lightness of the shapes, some of the fabrics, it seems after her and Karl. I'm exaggerating but yeah I cannot not feel it. It's like the house is back to square zero and it have to prove it's relevance again.

You described it well! Even the way the models lined up at the end and the bride walked up, I expected Karl to walk out with the team, even if we know this is not a collection he would design. It oddly felt more emotional than his last show or Virginie's first show.

 

[jeremydante]

It was mentioned that the collection was pre-planned by Virginie, so these looks still have her touch. Not sure if that is true, but those were the murmurs. I loved this collection, on the heels of Vogue World, it's a great return to more old world Chanel. This is really key. Capes are a deep reference for Chanel from 1978 versions to even those done in 2019 and 2023.

I will say, I wondered if Pierpaolo was going to pop out at the end. Some of the lines and looks were reminiscent of what he did with Valentino Couture, and I know his name was being thrown around as a possible new appointment. That would've been a major gag, if the new CD walked out with Virginie at the end.

Bride was giving too much sass, should've had some restraint. Couture, not RTW sweetie. Keep it classy.

 

[yslforever]

Miles better than VV, as if the studio/atelier knew her design flaws and decided to interfere once she left, to tighten a bit the waists.
But it is still extremely dusty, and that's not a wedding dress but a wedding cake, a gigantic walking meringue.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

I mean it is possible she didn't work on it. Just because she was there while this was being made doesn't mean she had to have participated in its production. She could've just been around tying up loose ends within the company

 

[Delleone]

I’m sorry but I see the same fit issues here. A certain ungainly bulk at the waist, matronly proportions, grandeur sans la légèreté… A certain sharpness is required here, toute de suite. This is couture! This is C-h-a-n-e-l!!

In the words of a certain Ms B. Spears: gimme more!

 

[Frederic01]

It’s been less than three weeks since news broke that Viriginie Viard, who inherited the artistic director position after Lagerfeld’s passing in 2019, was exiting the house. But today’s collection, according to notes provided by the house, was the work of the Fashion Creation Studio.

VOGUE RUNWAY

 

[PDFSD]

Miles better than VV, as if the studio/atelier knew her design flaws and decided to interfere once she left, to tighten a bit the waists.
But it is still extremely dusty, and that's not a wedding dress but a wedding cake, a gigantic walking meringue.

this feels the most close to the realty that the team jazzed up the fit of the clothes.

But today’s collection, according to notes provided by the house, was the work of the Fashion Creation Studio.
VOGUE RUNWAY

A disagreement between VV and Chanel would not allow for legal reasons to have her name even be mentioned or credited, and why would it be necessary to credit her she officially left 19 days ago. ( simple process of corporations with ex employees, you cant even keep your association on social media per example let alone credited on recent work prior to departure )

Its logic to credit the remaining team and structure its as simple as rain in the fall.

HC collection development is at least minimum 3 months nowadays not 2 weeks ( i am sure in old interviews KL or VV there is mentioned how long before they start on HC.)

A press release it to drive a narrative for the benefit of the company to move as fast as possible forward looking, it does not explain the full facts nor is it the purpose of one in this case for shows.

 

[PDFSD]

I mean it is possible she didn't work on it. Just because she was there while this was being made doesn't mean she had to have participated in its production. She could've just been around tying up loose ends within the company

Allegedly :-) all news so far indicate the creative director's sudden departure was clearly not planned, so no other info or rumours came out she was at home not coming in to work due to preparations for departure.
Loose ends (let's say with disagreements) are tied via lawyers and your home, highly unlikely your let into the office for weeks or months to say goodbye or clean your desk lol

this feel this most simply explains so far the reality :

Chanel gave no explanation for its creative director's sudden departure but it was clearly not planned. Usually, fashion houses announce a designer's exit after the last show and unveil the identity of his or her successor some days later. In this case, Chanel broke the news three weeks before the brand's haute couture show which the brand said would still take place on June 25 at Paris' Opera Garnier. Also, it said, "Chanel confirms the departure of Virginie Viard," after the news started leaking from staff. It is clearChanel believed it was forced to announce her departure.

The fact that the statement was issued at midnight Paris time means that it came from New York, where Alain Wertheimer, Chanel's executive chairman and controlling shareholder, is based. Hence, Wertheimer is the one who let Viard go, not CEO Leena Nair in London or Bruno Pavlovsky who is in charge of Chanel's fashion and is based in Paris. Pavlovsky has done his best to prevent Viard from leaving. In recent interviews, he strongly supported her work and rejected the possibility of her exiting. It is clear that Viard left the brand on her own initiative. She had had enough, industry sources say. She believed it was time to move on as Chanel was undergoing a generational management change and is currently suffering from an unprecedented drop in sales.

via miss tweed