Chanel Haute Couture F/W 2024.25 Paris

[Creative]

“… and on Tuesday, everyone was towing the company line. Viard had nothing to do with this collection, design duties were handled by an entity called the Fashion Creation Studio.”

Lol. Who are those that the execs at Chanel trying to kid? This surely reads like VV was being pushed to resign… (I can’t imagine the lawsuit and the severances Chanel will have to pay her for her decades long service so of course they will make her quit on her own decision)

And I can see Imran Amed coming out with another IG post trying to appease Dior and Chanel over this review just like what he did previously… *chuckles*

Anyway, it’s quite obvious that the design studios tried bring in the shapes of the looks to prevent it from looking too “loose” like it was under VV… but they kept/added a lot of big bows in VV’s sensibility still… ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

It’s crazy Chanel is behaving like this and it’s crazy how insanely basic people are. I can’t with the style not com guy, he probably gets paid though.

How on Earth is this any kind of good? Lmao. People are just haters to hate, because this not any better than Virginie’s official creations (even though this is 97% VV for sure).

I have 0 hope in fashion, 0 hope in corporations and 0 hope in fashion followers.

 

[disco54]

Not a fan of Virginie at all, but I will give her credit where its due , she worked there almost 40 years and unceremoniously throwing her out her final HC collection is down right cruel, this tells me the CEO Nair is one nasty controlling b!tch. Keeping that in mind its highly unlikely , the likes of Hedi Slimane with his diva tantrums would function at Chanel esp with her as CEO , nooooo way. My guess it will likely be Sarah Burton or Jeremy Scott as the CD.

 

[tourbillions]

^^^ its just a whole different ball game being a CD and assistant. We never know if their assistants have visions of their own or if they are better at just executing the vision of the CD.

 

[PDFSD]

^^^ its just a whole different ball game being a CD and assistant. We never know if their assistants have visions of their own or if they are better at just executing the vision of the CD.

Absolutely true but with over 30 years next to KL she been part of his style as well and we see that in each collection she did, the hand dowdy hand KL had later years was present in VV work as well ( put silhouettes next to each other and construction and proportions and cut, remove styling and show sets, the bones of construction are similar often (the team is the same the hand and eye of the ateliers are the same) :

Small note form KL on VV as his CREATIVE STUDIO DIRECTOR and time it takes to prepare collections:



KL on being commercial designer and his influence :


Don't they say Old habits die hard...in other words it is hard to stop doing things that one has been doing for a long time.

 

[PDFSD]

 

[dfl-001]

Is Chanel over?
Honestly, no matter what they do, they can't seem to get it right.
Those first ten looks are the same badly proportioned ill fitted looks they've had for years now.
Chanel does have a certain expectation, but there's no reason those suits can't be tailored to flatter the body.
And the styling could be classic but updated to look more modern.
This collection is really sad.

 

[TomBlanksFullFatMiuMiu]

I hate posting YouTubers here, but I agree with her

Chanel has done Virginie very dirty. Even if you are not a fan of her work as Chanel's CD, she deserves a proper goodbye after almost 3 decades of blood sweat tears to this company at the highest level. I am sure Karl as a perfectionist wasn’t easy to work with. Yes she is very rich now but it's mean and stingy to just throw her away like disposable garbage and not mention her, as Chloe did to Paulo Melim Andersson

This new CEO reminds me of George Clooney in 'Up in the Air', so cold and brutal to just fire people like objects when she is the newest person in that room

 

[Caffeine]

This new CEO reminds me of George Clooney in 'Up in the Air', so cold and brutal to just fire people like objects when she is the newest person in that room

Spot on!

 

[PDFSD]

Lets not replace one hate to one woman onto another one, even if she seems a newcomer in high fashion/luxury, the owners and Bruno are also still there.....it's like a endless witch hunt.

Truth is we just don't know what happened and is happening, and who is responsible.

 

[PDFSD]

LE FIGARO. -

You separated from your artistic director, Virginie Viard, on June 6.

Bruno Pavlovsky -  It's a beautiful story that has come to an end. Virginie joined Chanel in 1997 and her contribution has been exceptional throughout her collaboration with Karl Lagerfeld and during the last five years as director of collections. Compared to Karl who had a more "suit" approach to Chanel, Virginie has given back to the silhouette a femininity and lightness, an easier wear that appeals to all women. But as it can happen, the time had come for her and us to move on to another stage. Timing is imposed on us and that's life...

Where are your thoughts on his succession?

We decided to take the time needed to properly close this chapter and find a new creative organization. What I am sure of is that the ideal system for us is not to recruit an artistic director who offers the same thing in all the houses he works for. Too many artistic directors lose the meaning of their brand. Chanel has a product that exists, a strong product, and the power of Karl and Virginie has been to continue to make it evolve, to build it using the best of the past, each with their own vision but always at the service of the house. We will never wipe the slate clean of what exists at Chanel… There is a framework, the artistic direction must operate within this framework. We can obviously change it from the inside, but certainly not blow it up… Some American media have talked about the artistic director system no longer being adapted to the needs of large houses like ours. Are they right? Honestly, I don't know, you just have to think about it to find the rare bird! The biggest difficulty today is that few designers know haute couture, have this expertise.


.......

 

[rowjellies]

I hate posting YouTubers here, but I agree with her

Chanel has done Virginie very dirty. Even if you are not a fan of her work as Chanel's CD, she deserves a proper goodbye after almost 3 decades of blood sweat tears to this company at the highest level. I am sure Karl as a perfectionist wasn’t easy to work with. Yes she is very rich now but it's mean and stingy to just throw her away like disposable garbage and not mention her, as Chloe did to Paulo Melim Andersson

This new CEO reminds me of George Clooney in 'Up in the Air', so cold and brutal to just fire people like objects when she is the newest person in that room

I thought Cathy Horyn confirmed that Bruno Pavlovsky fired Virginie Viard with support of the Wertheimers, not Leena Nair.

 

[TomBlanksFullFatMiuMiu]

I thought Cathy Horyn confirmed that Bruno Pavlovsky fired Virginie Viard with support of the Wertheimers, not Leena Nair.

oh really, do you have a link?

 

[rowjellies]

oh really, do you have a link?

“In early June, for reasons that are unclear, Viard was fired. Given the apparent abruptness of the decision — which was made by the brand’s president of fashion, Bruno Pavlovsky, and backed by its chairman and co-owner, Alain Wertheimer — there must have been a serious disagreement.”

The Cut

 

[PDFSD]

“In early June, for reasons that are unclear, Viard was fired. Given the apparent abruptness of the decision — which was made by the brand’s president of fashion, Bruno Pavlovsky, and backed by its chairman and co-owner, Alain Wertheimer — there must have been a serious disagreement.”

The Cut

Key word is on Given the apparent abruptness of the decision... means assuming xyz !!!.....it's not a confirmation but a assessments based on the assumptions of apparent abruptness of the decision.....

It's a opinion of Cathy : not rooted in facts so far as the facts of day and timing of the press release on VV & Chanel separating are the only thing to go by for now besides the reasons that are unclear as to why it even happened.

just a fancy way of saying i think or i feel she was fired because ....

 

[JohannesL]

"What I am sure of is that the ideal system for us is not to recruit an artistic director who offers the same thing in all the houses he works for. Too many artistic directors lose the meaning of their brand."

Pavlovsky is setting set the bar high with this quote that one can easily find a bunch of designers in the other thread that is off his radar.

 

[Grets]

Bruno and Leena want someone they can control. No big personalities. I can't see Hedi, Galliano or Alessandro even working with Leena Nair. Karl was a big personality though...

 

[jeremydante]

I hate posting YouTubers here, but I agree with her

I couldn't get past 20 seconds of this video. Feels like a parody.

 

[jeremydante]

“In early June, for reasons that are unclear, Viard was fired. Given the apparent abruptness of the decision — which was made by the brand’s president of fashion, Bruno Pavlovsky, and backed by its chairman and co-owner, Alain Wertheimer — there must have been a serious disagreement.”

The Cut

I think it's in Chanel's better interest to say they fired her, and reportedly Virginie had already signed a hefty NDA which forbids her to speak on any business matters. So, to preserve the ego, they could be saying she was fired, but if she left- that had to take a lot out of her to make that decision. No one leaves a brand they've been at for 27 years over nothing. So this shift with Virginie was built up. Everyone knows that Karl crowned Virginie his successor.

Waiting to see if they'll make a decision and announce ahead of next season's runway show. It would be such a gag to just have the new CD bow at the end of the show. I kind of like the mystique of it all, wondering who will be appointed.

Have said it somewhere in this thread will say it again, I do feel for Virginie as I would assume that Chanel is part of her identity in so many ways, as a young woman to now. Fired or not, she'll always be Chanel no matter how extensive her time was there, or how brief her CD tenure was held. Not many would be able to take on a house the size of Chanel.

 

[jeremydante]

We will never wipe the slate clean of what exists at Chanel… There is a framework, the artistic direction must operate within this framework.

What Coco built, and what Karl reinforced - too powerful. House code for Chanel is etched in stone forever. Happy he spoke to the understanding that Chanel operates within a framework. Karl did such an amazing job honoring Coco's essence always. That is the core of Chanel, the heart of the house, whoever is appointed needs to take care of that. As heavy and difficult as that may be, that's probably the biggest part of the job. With the public backlash, you see- people have personal affection and feelings about Chanel; that's how iconic their house code has become.

The slate could never be whiped for what exists at Chanel. Its storied history is beyond every house in existence.

 

[TomBlanksFullFatMiuMiu]

I couldn't get past 20 seconds of this video. Feels like a parody.

Among all the YouTube commentators, I always find actual regular luxury shoppers more convincing than let’s say hautelamode

I think she's funny and honest, also like Super Dacob, Cassie Thorpe and Sophie Shohet
All my guilty pleasures