Chanel Pre-Fall 2025 Hangzhou

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[Lola701]

Come on now, let's not pretend Karl's 2010s collections didn’t look almost identical to this. I could show you both Virginie Viard's Métiers d'Art 2019 collection and Karl's Fall 2018 Couture collection, and you’d have a hard time telling which one belongs to him.

Karl had a very specific way of cutting his clothes, a very specific way of embellishing his clothes and a very specific of making dresses and doing volumes…So much so that in his last RTW collection for Chanel, it’s almost obvious to see the few looks designed by Virginie compared to the rest.

I can be wrong and be totally oblivious of many things but for me there’s a difference between a Karl’s designed collection (with it good and bad) and the collections by Virginie or the studio.
Yes, it’s obvious that they went to the archives and did something that they have been familiar with but for me there’s still a difference.

The same way that Chanel in the 2010´s looked very different to me to Chanel in 2000’s, the late 90’s or early 90’s.


This collection here is what it is. Some good some bad but the first thing I notice is the shoulders, the proportions. Something is not working but the silhouette is very close to the body so…

The styling is terrible but I like the Ancora twin-sets.

 

[blueorchid]

I still see Virginie's touch here: "clothes that look like they weigh 10lbs)"

 

[IsabelMarantBoy]

Finally a collection with some beautiful fabrics! I've had enough of flat cottons and wools, give me all the brocades and satins

Gotta agree with the post above though, how did you manage to make these garments look so heavy?? Even the mini skirts look dowdy.

 

[GivenchyAddict]

Ok you don’t have a CD yet but hire a da*n stylist!

 

[Alquimista]

a total mess. but I find interesting to see how different it is from karl's work.

there are several looks here that karl would never do. i don't like it but it shows that chanel can be so many things other than what karl made of it. 🤔

 

[JohannesL]

This collection has little to do with chinoiserie in terms of silhouettes and inspirations except for some embroideries and silks. To make it worse, half of the looks have the code of boxy shapes of Viard written on them making the models look wide. If the team just don't know how to do a cultural collection, they should have at least looked at Karl's metiers d'art Bombay or even YSL's Les Chinoises or Tom Ford's take on that theme.

 

[jeanclaude]

Are they sure Virginie left the ateliers? Because this feels as if she was hiding inside a closet, sketching this mess in revenge. Atrocious and cheap looking collection! No sense of refinement at all! Looks like a chinese brand, like Shein, making a "Chanel inspired" collection.

If you are going to be inspired by the Coromandel panels from Mademoiselle apartment, this is how you do it:

drouot.com

 

[Caffeine]

Seems like Chanel needed to put on an decent show to retain one of their largest markets, if not the largest market that is turning away from luxury.

They are swimming against the tide.
I'm assuming they look at data on demographic changes (age brackets, etc.) and economic trends.
instead of swimming against the tide, perhaps they should make things luxurious, elegant, and maybe innovative again. In that way, at least people in other markets can buy more.