My issue with Blazy at BV was that it always felt too heavy — the styling was over-intellectual, and I never found any real sense of fun or humour in his work.
I’m glad that’s not the case with his first show. You can clearly see the Chanel codes and how he’s decided to push them, probably even introducing new ones. The looks are rich and full of detail; they’re fun, luxurious, and genuinely modern — unlike Virginie’s work.
Virginie had all the Chanel codes, yet it was still terrible, so I won’t be too rigid about the supposed “lack” of codes here.
He’ll still need to tighten the editing, shake things up when it comes to shoes, and bring more wit to the accessories. We all knew his debut would polarise people, but at least this time, we feel something — and Chanel is back in the conversation. One task done for Matthieu.
Of everyone this season, this is the strongest debut in my opinion. Now that we’ve had Chanel, fashion week is officially over (sorry, not sorry, to those showing tomorrow).