Chanel S/S 2026 Paris | Page 9 | the Fashion Spot

Chanel S/S 2026 Paris

By the way, the shoe curse for the house with the ugliest footwear is still there.

I don’t know who was the one casting this curse, but they did it well. It is definitely the brand with the ugliest shoes season after season. 💀
 

is he wrong though ?
now we have a diluted Virginie Viard with Bottega Veneta fabrics and experimentations, with no connection whatsoever with the set nor the soundtracks.
0, literaly 0 story-stelling except: "we have refreshed old-Chanel, just dusted the tweeds, and anyway, if you don't like it, there is the biggest set we could have thought of"

now I keep wondering what Hedi would have done... probably something more focused and exclusive.
 
It was predictable. He does not design clothes, he just decorates them as a Christmas tree. Remove all those ornaments, and there is nothing but generic (and a lot of them also unflattering) clothes. He does not play with patterns, he only plays with anything shiny.

No sophistication, no refinement, no concept and no style. Just decorations with a Chanel tag.
 
is he wrong though ?
now we have a diluted Virginie Viard with Bottega Veneta fabrics and experimentations, with no connection whatsoever with the set nor the soundtracks.
0, literaly 0 story-stelling except: "we have refreshed old-Chanel, just dusted the tweeds, and anyway, if you don't like it, there is the biggest set we could have thought of"

now I keep wondering what Hedi would have done... probably something more focused and exclusive.
We've seen what Hedi would've done; that was his finale Céline collection. Don't fool yourself into thinking he'd have had anything different to offer.
 
A well-deserved standing ovation.

I like it. It's far from a perfect debut but still fabulous. Karl was far from a perfect fit for Chanel but he still had a legendary tenure at so this could be a new beginning of something great.
I love the soundtrack and the set, it feels grand but also a little bit of intimidate, and finally some theatrics are coming back to Chanel.
First look came out, and the tailoring is already better than what was shown during the Virginie era. It was light and fresh.
The Chanel codes maybe easy to interpret but it can also be tricky and we can see it with Virginie she made them quite matronly and outdated. Matthieu brings modernity into the codes.
I love the way he uses tweeds, a nod to the past but with a touch of contemporary. These will look good on a variety of women from young girls to mature couture ladies.
And the flou and feathers are fabulous, the look on Mona, and the closing look on Anwar move so beautifully in motion.
I'm so excited, now bring on the couture Matthieu.

A new chapter has begun for Chanel.
 
According to Vogue, the tweed was made out of viscoce for a more summery lightweight effect. There were also references to Boy Capel in the tailoring and the shirts were done in collaboration with Charvet.
At long last, the moment was here. After 10 months of preparation, and 14 other spring 2026 debuts, it was finally time for Matthieu Blazy’s first Chanel collection. At just minutes past 8:00 pm, the scheduled start time, nearly everyone was in their seats, with a solar system worth of planetary orbs glowing above us. Home of countless iconic Karl Lagerfeld collections for Chanel, the Grand Palais is a massive stage and a visual metaphor for the giant leap that Blazy was about to make, as only the fourth designer to helm the house that Coco Chanel founded 115 years ago.

To point out that anticipation was high is an understatement, but to say that the 41-year-old French-Belgian rose to the occasion and more is no hyperbole. Blazy’s Chanel was the season’s most compelling debut: assured, modern, and easy in a way that few of Milan and Paris’s more historical leaning collections have managed, but without compromising on the finesse or savoir faire so linked with the house.

The icons of Coco Chanel’s brand are well known by all in fashion: the little black dress, the tweed suit, the body-freeing knit jersey, the camellia, the double Cs. Nonetheless, from his very first day, Blazy said backstage, he went into the archives. “I felt very overwhelmed, it was too much beauty almost, and I didn’t know where to take it from.”

One of his first instincts, he explained, was to consider Chanel’s adoption of her boyfriend Boy Capel’s wardrobe and the rule-breaking way she made the utilitarian aspects of traditional men’s tailoring her own. The cropped pant suit jackets that opened the show were based on a jacket of Blazy’s own that he chopped off at the waist and altered the buttons on, and the boxy button-downs that came later were a collaboration with Charvet, the famous Place Vendôme shirtmaker; apparently he added Chanel’s signature metal link chain, which makes the house’s jackets hang just so, to the shirt’s hem for a similarly eye-pleasing effect.

At Bottega Veneta, where Blazy spent nearly three years as creative director, he made his reputation as a material-minded innovator. No one will forget the tank top and jeans from his first show that were actually, unbelievably leather. Fabric innovation was top of mind for him here too. Tweed can turn lumpy fast, but Blazy’s looked fairly weightless in comparison. “I use viscose because it gives something quite dynamic to the fabric,” he said, “and they [the suits] became very light.”

Lagerfeld was at the height of his powers in the aughts. It’s been years since Chanel’s cropped tweed jacket was a cult item, wildly desirable and widely copied, but Blazy made a case for its fashion comeback. Knit v-necks with undershirts peeking from the hems and matching wrap skirts looked equally satisfying to wear, as did the sweater and skirt sets with camellias embroidered at the hem.

For all her practicality and inventiveness, Coco Chanel also had an eccentric streak; she challenged convention with such conviction it eventually became convention. That’s how striped tops and thick ropes of pearls, for instance, became not just house signatures but styles that transcended her brand. Matthieu Blazy was intent on breaking convention, too. The ribbed cotton peeking out from above the waistlines of his low-slung skirts and trousers? He explained, “I was interested in the fact that the first-ever jersey Coco Chanel found to make the marinière [shirt] was used to make underwear… and there is also a personal story: my grandfather worked in a factory of men’s underwear.”

The underwear detail added a note of cool, contemporary realness to the collection, a quality reinforced by the new 2.55 bag, which had wire added to its flaps so it can be manipulated by the wearer. The idea, Blazy said, was to make it look not old, but well-loved. “I was interested in that kind of aspect of time and something you cherish," he said.

Though he had Nicole Kidman and Ayo Edebiri, his new brand ambassadors, in his front row, there was nothing as conventional as a red carpet dress. Instead, he paired satin T-shirts with befeathered ball skirts, their hems raising up a few inches in front to show off the updated cap-toe shoes. “The good thing with the codes of Chanel is that you can reduce them and they still look like Chanel,” he said. Blazy’s message: This is only just the beginning.
Vogue Runway - Nicole Phelps
 
This is exactly what the house needed: a thorough overhaul. Mathieu's Debut is all about expansion and gaiety. He did carry over some ideas that he left at Bottega, but we'll have to give him grace for now, as this is most likely a boardroom prerogative. Scouting another creative director is also to harness the successes of their previous tenure.

Chanel has been longing for a brand refresh, and Virginie's tenure doesn't really count. History will remember that it was just a transitional chapter after Karl's passing.

He may not be a Karl Lagerfeld or Hedi Slimane, but being unconventional might be the right choice for Chanel.
Debuts nowadays are test runs to see what can click or not. His sophomore and third collections will truly determine if he's the right fit.
 
Goodness. Very mixed bag of a collection. The styling is not good. The opening jackets look cheap. Hate those puffy flower carnation pins etc. The simple outfits works best but yeah, very underwhelming.
 
Viscose? Why not silk?
My best guess is that silk would be too precious and formal for such the design's goals. The Chanel suit is designed in a way that it can be dressed up/down and I imagine that Blazy wanted to keep that.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

New Posts

Forum Statistics

Threads
215,117
Messages
15,287,110
Members
89,022
Latest member
zenosamaa
Back
Top