Chanel S/S 2026 Paris

[tricotineacetat]

The irony of it all is THE REAL Coco Chanel of the 21th century is Phoebe Philo

I‘d like to think it was more Jil Sander, considering they both had quite a few biographic similarities as female entrepreneurs, which also informed their approach to design as well as the women they designed for.

I don‘t know how singular Phoebe Philo‘s point of view can be seen once we take into consideration that her Chloé felt like something drastically different - To me, her take on 'female, minimalist design' is less purposeful and utilitarian, than it is a fashion statement fit for the Zeitgeist her Celine and own label exist(ed) in, no?

 

[marines]

 

[Kanzai]

It's irrelevant to compare someone to someone from a later time. The social structure and social role of a woman in the early decades of the 20th century, the 90s and the 2010s are different. People's values about the importance of fashion are also different through the periods, Grabielle Chanel is a "fashion" monument because her style shook the whole system, although there were many designers with different aesthetics, they all focused on designing for a class - a specific type of woman of that part of history. Both Jil Sander and Phoebe Philo were embraced by the Zeitgeist in their own times. But there must be a reason why so many women deeply love Philo (even those who dgaf about fashion world) – that kind of resonance is a form of recognition in itself, whether or not we personally align with her aesthetic.

 

[tricotineacetat]

It's irrelevant to compare someone to someone from a later time. The social structure and social role of a woman in the early decades of the 20th century, the 90s and the 2010s are different. People's values about the importance of fashion are also different through the periods, Grabielle Chanel is a "fashion" monument because her style shook the whole system, although there were many designers with different aesthetics, they all focused on designing for a class - a specific type of woman of that part of history. Both Jil Sander and Phoebe Philo were embraced by the Zeitgeist in their own times. But there must be a reason why so many women deeply love Philo (even those who dgaf about fashion world) – that kind of resonance is a form of recognition in itself, whether or not we personally align with her aesthetic.

I would argue a lot of our perception around that is heavily informed about the novelty of social media as the main driver of fashion PR, something that greatly enhances the hype and impact around fashion brands. In short: Just because everybody talks about something doesn‘t mean it equals the amount of consumers ready to buy.

Some customer demographics have more and less engagement with social media just as much as certain brands aggressively push their marketing whereas others maintain a largely private presence.

 

[RosesAreRed]

I think we will only know when his produts get in stores and we see reaction from real clients. Chanel is in it's own league. I feel they have a lot of clients who wear nearly exclusively Chanel. So their reaction would be important.

 

[tourbillions]

What I hope for Blazy's Chanel is that they actually start filling their stores with RTW instead of merch rtw. And also Instead of only keeping a few precious tweed things/eveningwear in the backroom for the VIC's. More than Hermes, they need to entice people to find RTW that will later make them justify buying their bags. IDK about other stores but from what I see the selection is too limited other than the bags/shoes/jewelry.

 

[Caffeine]

What I hope for Blazy's Chanel is that they actually start filling their stores with RTW instead of merch rtw. And also Instead of only keeping a few precious tweed things/eveningwear in the backroom for the VIC's. More than Hermes, they need to entice people to find RTW that will later make them justify buying their bags. IDK about other stores but from what I see the selection is too limited other than the bags/shoes/jewelry.

It really depends on the store. Some are filled with rtw.

The immediate impact is that the existing customers are buying up the classic looks in stores lol

 

[marines]

 

[disco54]

I‘d like to think it was more Jil Sander, considering they both had quite a few biographic similarities as female entrepreneurs, which also informed their approach to design as well as the women they designed for.

I don‘t know how singular Phoebe Philo‘s point of view can be seen once we take into consideration that her Chloé felt like something drastically different - To me, her take on 'female, minimalist design' is less purposeful and utilitarian, than it is a fashion statement fit for the Zeitgeist her Celine and own label exist(ed) in, no?

Not at all , it is Phoebe Philo's aesthetic which has dominated fashion , the number of clone houses is astounding I have never seen anything like it , Jil Sander is completely irrelevent sorry to say.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

Oh she looks gorgeous! At first I wondered why that hair, but it works in a 20s Josephine Baker/Clara Bow kind of way. The camelia is cheap looking though and should have been removed, both for the runway and here.

 

[Caffeine]

Oh she looks gorgeous! At first I wondered why that hair, but it works in a 20s Josephine Baker/Clara Bow kind of way. The camelia is cheap looking though and should have been removed, both for the runway and here.

I don't think it is a camellia, at least not how they normally make it.
This is a stunning dress. And I agree with you that the flower should have been made nicer.

 

[jeanclaude]

What strikes me the most is that Ayo dress was fitted to her body...while the same dress for the show was not fitted for the model...go figure!!

 

[tricotineacetat]

Not at all , it is Phoebe Philo's aesthetic which has dominated fashion , the number of clone houses is astounding I have never seen anything like it , Jil Sander is completely irrelevent sorry to say.

I am confused to read this, since what I mentioned neither suggested to speak of the relevance of the Jil Sander brand today, nor compare Jil Sander with Phoebe Philo, other than to seek a biographic similarities between Ms. Chanel and Ms. Sander that were highlighting a sense of utility and practicality that isn’t a strong feature in the work of Phoebe Philo.

We do not need to argue how many other labels and designers have copied the style of Phoebe Philo in the last 10 years but I think noone would go the lengths to put her contribution to fashion history on par with designers like Jil Sander, Helmut Lang, Calvin Klein or Donna Karan (designers whose careers span decades) just because neither one of their namesake brands are commercially or culturally significant today.

Phoebe Philo’s career is not over yet but I consider it unlikely her name will be linked to a significant trademark silhouette or defining pieces that will be remembered in the same capacity as either one of the above designers or even for that matter, Nicolas Ghesquière’s.

 

[Monsieur Cristobal]

Maybe I am wrong, but I would say that Jil Sander's aesthetic has been even more relevant than Phoebe's, without denying her importance which is enormous.
But if you consider that Jil influenced such behemots like COS and Uniqlo, whereas Phoebe has been copyied to death mainly in high fashion, maybe Jil wins by the numbers.

When influence is really big it becomes unnoticeable.
Many women would be surprised to know that the way they dress today is indebted to Chanel. The same applies to Jil Sander.

But the woman who is dressed à la Phoebe Philo, 99% of the times knows it. She belongs to the fashion-obsessed minority and was searching for that specific look.