Chanel S/S 2026 Paris

[Lola701]

I find that IG post weird. It implies that women are a monolith.
The Dilara girl is not speaking to me. And she is a woman…
MGC or Frida Giannini didn’t spoke to me.
That post implies therefore that all the women who are buying HF are buying it with the same intention.

And using Thom Browne is quite sketchy as he is doing the same thing on men and women.

And the term reality doesn’t mean anything.

Those IG posts that are always coming up with those subjects are never asking the right questions or raising interesting conversations.

A woman wearing a Duran for Gaultier hairy chest bra is making a statement. The question we should ask is what kind of statement it means and how it does relate to the conversations in the youth today.

I’m 40, I have a kid, I have responsibilities. My social life doesn’t relate to that Gaultier top but I understand it. It would look ridiculous on me and on a lot of women but it says something more than just « reality ». There’s nothing quote on quote « real » about HF. There’s an insane amount of privilege behind indulging in HF.

 

[Xone]

That post seems more of a clickbait or looking for likes disguised as an "open discussion" about fashion. Is one sided and a little limited...

And most of it they seem to not be able to understand High fashion...

As @Lola701 mentioned there is no realness in HF...

i hated that Duran collection...but all women and men looks...but it is true whoever wear that bra or want to make an statement or just want to go viral, these days the borders are so confuse....

btw why are we discussing this on the Chanel thread when not even Blazy was mentioned on the post?...maybe it should be a thread to discuss the season...will be better, healthier and appropiate. Just an idea...

 

[Creative]

seems like this post i just saw on instagram raises a similar point. It does seem like certain brands and collections aim more to make a spectacle than to make the model look or feel spectacular.

The person in Thom Browne is not a guy? 🤣

Then men can’t design for men either.


That IG post is probably the most absurd thing I’ve seen in my life.

 

[Avonlea]

what’s dumb about it? I wanted to open discussion

it is very meaningless to me tho, like almost too nonsense to form any opinion on. i mean its only 3 sentences while “addressing” 3 separate shows.

but questions of “do these designers care about the wearer/wonan?” and talk of industry people being tryhards for virality seem common

I didn’t mean to sound confrontational, I just find the instagram post you shared ridiculous. The collections they chose are clearly creative exercises/artistic expression, meant to make a statement rather than a wardrobe proposition. What exactly did the author of the post expect? Di Felice’s work is largely wearable, but he always includes a few gimmicky pieces for the sake of presentation. It's either a complete misunderstanding or dishonesty on the author’s part.

 

[psychopsist]

I find that IG post weird. It implies that women are a monolith.

I’m 40, I have a kid, I have responsibilities. My social life doesn’t relate to that Gaultier top but I understand it. It would look ridiculous on me and on a lot of women but it says something more than just « reality ». There’s nothing quote on quote « real » about HF. There’s an insane amount of privilege behind indulging in HF.

cropped ur post just for ease but i agree Lola!

In general I haven’t been especially moved by like the “Duran hates women” stuff, as much as I find some of his work gharish. My guess is he would probably say he doesn’t like fussy conformists of either sex, and so he aims to create a vision of irreverent, emancipated ‘new forms’ with all his play with dimension and shape. I’m personally not that girl but I’m young and not born into wealth so yes high fashion is not an interest that comes from “real”-ness for me either.

And yeah, Thom Browne doesn’t even seem to fall in the scope of the topic. I think it is a guy in the pic @Creative 😹

btw why are we discussing this on the Chanel thread when not even Blazy was mentioned on the post?...maybe it should be a thread to discuss the season...will be better, healthier and appropiate. Just an idea...

True, but it was a reply to something specific. And this thread is so long it’s had a lot of more ‘general discussion.” The last page or two had a tangent of Philo vs Sanders relevance/impact(stemming from comparisons to Chanel but definitely veering off of it). It’s honestly too late to switch now lol and I don’t think health is a question but I apologize if it makes the thread feel congested.

I didn’t mean to sound confrontational, I just find the instagram post you shared ridiculous. The collections they chose are clearly creative exercises/artistic expression, meant to make a statement rather than a wardrobe proposition. What exactly did the author of the post expect? Di Felice’s work is largely wearable, but he always includes a few gimmicky pieces for the sake of presentation. It's either a complete misunderstanding or dishonesty on the author’s part.

And oh, it’s completely okay, i took no offense at all. I just wanted to hear your elaboration, and I agree. Genuine or not it’s a rlly oddly framed post(even visually) and what it suggests is asinine.

 

[Caffeine]

I find that IG post weird. It implies that women are a monolith.
The Dilara girl is not speaking to me. And she is a woman…
MGC or Frida Giannini didn’t spoke to me.
That post implies therefore that all the women who are buying HF are buying it with the same intention.

And using Thom Browne is quite sketchy as he is doing the same thing on men and women.

And the term reality doesn’t mean anything.

Those IG posts that are always coming up with those subjects are never asking the right questions or raising interesting conversations.

A woman wearing a Duran for Gaultier hairy chest bra is making a statement. The question we should ask is what kind of statement it means and how it does relate to the conversations in the youth today.

I’m 40, I have a kid, I have responsibilities. My social life doesn’t relate to that Gaultier top but I understand it. It would look ridiculous on me and on a lot of women but it says something more than just « reality ». There’s nothing quote on quote « real » about HF. There’s an insane amount of privilege behind indulging in HF.

The only difference is that you worked in fashion before. Most don't.
The lady who is a regular started long time ago, way before vv was on the scene.
And someone started in the 90s and bought couture.
Another one buys cdg etc.
So it is a collection of consumers from their 30s to their 60s.

All are outside the fashion industry.
I am certain that they will gain customers, but the revenue number will be a net effect. So far the word is that in certain US boutique there has been no preorder for this collection.

The Instagram post above didn't include the "right" collections to compare, but i think that the point is that most collections are overly intellectual.

I wrote in a different thread that designing for a working heterosexual women was a progressive idea, but today a working heterosexual woman is a traditional idea. This is probably a discussion for that thread though.

Clearly there is a disconnection at least for the people outside this industry.

 

[LadyJunon]

To expand on @Lola701's post, I think that the “high fashion should represent reality” argument is a bit tone deaf. While HF has desperately trying to revamp its image away from its exclusionary, elitist image that was first curated in the 80s and 90s, there’s a shocking pink elephant in the room: price point. The average woman can’t afford a whole wardrobe of Dior or Chanel.

Even if we use the “female gaze” argument, lots of female designers present conceptual or unwearable collections. Rei Kawakubo and Miuccia Prada are prime examples of that. Even Phoebe Philo presented a lot of designs that could be challenging to wear in an everywoman’s life. Lots of people praised Trotter's debut at BV as "a woman (Philo)'s vision", but are they are going to wear the crumpled leather or the fiberglass fringe? No, they'll buy one or two of the bags and maybe a pair of the mule loafers.

 

[marines]

 

[Grets]

I think it comes down to a lot women buy into luxury fashion for the utility of looking beautiful/elegant/stylish but most importantly status. This not to say all, there are many that love the creativity of fashion. The women on the purse forum are having a fit because they are not engaging with the intellectual side of Blazy nor do they see the historical references. They also feel like the crushed bag is a slap in the face. While this is supposed to be an interesting commentary by Blazy but I don’t think this falls into this bag portraying beauty/elegance or portrays status. It’s also very Demna. I don’t think they are wrong to feel this is a not distinct enough of a style.

 

[Lola701]

The only difference is that you worked in fashion before. Most don't.
The lady who is a regular started long time ago, way before vv was on the scene.
And someone started in the 90s and bought couture.
Another one buys cdg etc.
So it is a collection of consumers from their 30s to their 60s.

All are outside the fashion industry.
I am certain that they will gain customers, but the revenue number will be a net effect. So far the word is that in certain US boutique there has been no preorder for this collection.

The Instagram post above didn't include the "right" collections to compare, but i think that the point is that most collections are overly intellectual.

I wrote in a different thread that designing for a working heterosexual women was a progressive idea, but today a working heterosexual woman is a traditional idea. This is probably a discussion for that thread though.

Clearly there is a disconnection at least for the people outside this industry.

I cannot dismiss their opinion but at the same time, we cannot pretend that opinion of some women on the internet, much like myself, is de facto a reality that will apply to all of the women of their demographic.

And then again, their status will allow them to have a private viewing of the collection when it reach the storesad their opinion may change.

It was a gamble to move on from the Karl years. They knew it was controversial but it was necessary.

Their comments are valid but their reality are not everybody’s.

The good thing about Chanel is that everything happens in the stores so we will see it in 6 months. In the way they were also clever to go straight to NYC for the Metiers D’Arts.
And I think they should go to Asia for resort.

 

[Caffeine]

nor do they see the historical references

I was surprised to read the story that a lady who bought her first Chanel when she was a teen, then a couture customer, since the 90s. They are very well aware of the historical references.
It is also odd that out of all the powerful things Coco did, MB's choice was the sad love story where such a strong woman was considered not a wife material by Boy.
This why KL was such a genius. As Lola noted before, he could make very not Chanel pieces but the customers would buy them thinking that they were very Chanel.

 

[Creative]

From my point of view most of the customers buy based on hype or brand recognition.

They don’t have any kind of taste or opinion, they buy what’s hyped and what other people buy.

 

[Caffeine]

I cannot dismiss their opinion but at the same time, we cannot pretend that opinion of some women on the internet, much like myself, is de facto a reality that will apply to all of the women of their demographic.

And then again, their status will allow them to have a private viewing of the collection when it reach the storesad their opinion may change.

It was a gamble to move on from the Karl years. They knew it was controversial but it was necessary.

Their comments are valid but their reality are not everybody’s.

The good thing about Chanel is that everything happens in the stores so we will see it in 6 months. In the way they were also clever to go straight to NYC for the Metiers D’Arts.
And I think they should go to Asia for resort.

What you said is fair.
It was clearly not controversial from the PR machine. The only dissenting voice I've read online is from the Purseforum rtw thread.
Selling viscose in Asia is even riskier. The silk country clearly doesn't know better. They need to fix it before resort.

 

[Caffeine]

From my point of view most of the customers buy based on hype or brand recognition.

They don’t have any kind of taste or opinion, they buy what’s hyped and what other people buy.

In Manhattan, I see many Chanel jackets in C-suite meetings. They are very quiet, but if you know, you know. (This is why many stopped buying in the past two years. Things got too loud.)
In general, the C-suite armor for women are Dior bar jackets, Chanel jackets, RL MTM, etc. It's part of the dress code no different from men's savile row suits.

A couple of years ago, I was in an investor day of a large corporation's. A c-suite lady presented on stage. She wore a jacket from the Rome collection. Very, very quiet, but it fit her like a glove. It was power and precision. To me, it was, wow. I'm sure the average man won't notice, but they would see the confidence in her. (The audience was 95+% male.)

 

[Lola701]

From my point of view most of the customers buy based on hype or brand recognition.

They don’t have any kind of taste or opinion, they buy what’s hyped and what other people buy.

Exactly.
Chanel is Chanel so it will always have that mystique. But if there’s a feeling that Chanel is hot again, people will want to buy that because of the desire to be associated with that.

What you said is fair.
It was clearly not controversial from the PR machine. The only dissenting voice I've read online is from the Purseforum rtw thread.
Selling viscose in Asia is even riskier. The silk country clearly doesn't know better. They need to fix it before resort.

Oh…I saw a lot of silk blouses and jersey tshirts in this. They won’t have any issue with that.
I don’t have to worry about the way they are conducting their business according to some markets.
That’s why for me, the viscose or polyester conversation or what is almost relevant when it comes to a brand like Chanel.

Asian clients could access to silk on the snap of a finger as you suggest. So making the choice to go to Chanel is already a commitment to Chanel, not to silk. It’s a plus.
Nobody needs a 5K blouse.

 

[LadyJunon]

I think it comes down to a lot women buy into luxury fashion for the utility of looking beautiful/elegant/stylish but most importantly status. This not to say all, there are many that love the creativity of fashion. The women on the purse forum are having a fit because they are not engaging with the intellectual side of Blazy nor do they see the historical references. They also feel like the crushed bag is a slap in the face. While this is supposed to be an interesting commentary by Blazy but I don’t think this falls into this bag portraying beauty/elegance or portrays status. It’s also very Demna. I don’t think they are wrong to feel this is a not distinct enough of a style.

This. Lot of luxury customers only see fashion as a means of status building. Both logomania and quiet luxury follow that ideal of the wearer wanting to look richer and more tasteful, despite their very different execution. Avant-gardism (at its core) aims to reject or challenge that.

Blazy's crushed handbags reject that ideal. Di Felice's sunshields reject that ideal. Matieres Fecales' platform heels (along with their "alternatiive casting) reject that ideal. Pieter's Alaia and Miu Miu don't dowright reject that ideal, but toy with it many times, which is enough to upset that status building customer. The entire brands of Gaultier and Margiela have been based around the rejection of elitism and status building.

What really disappoints me though is Friedmann. She has proven herself several times to be close-minded towards anything that isn't immediately pretty or tasteful. I'm don't expect her to like this stuff, but as a fashion expert, I do expect her to actually put in more consideration in designer fashion beyond her own sartorial preferences.