Chloé F/W 2021.22 Paris

[disco54]

I wasn’t necessarily the biggest fan of Hannah. It was just too beige even if it was slick and grown up.
I was still upset that they fired Paolo M.A. and 13 years later, I’m still mad they did him so dirty.

I don’t have a particular interest in Chloe but I really do cherish all the clothes and the shoes (from his last collection) that I have from his time.

I just don’t understand the strategy behind having Gabriela. It seems like everytime Chloe is having someone courageous enough to shake-up the formula, it does not last...And this is quite a departure from everything Chloe has always been. From Karl to Natacha, Chloe has been about young women...

Melim's Chloe was too Marni and that was the problem but honestly, his last show was pretty good IMO. I think it was a huge blunder to let go of Natasha she probably was the closest designer they had to Phoebe Philo's Chloe.

 

[YohjiAddict]

The fit is abysmal. Is she blind?

I hope she's out soon so she doesn't have to humilliate herself any further...

She makes all the designers that preceded her look like absolute geniuses, at least she'll make us value Chloé's legacy!

P.S: I' m dying to read Horyn's review, she hates her

 

[HeatherAnne]

That Gallic flou is the core of Chloe's house codes and here it's completely missing. Yeah, it is easy to do Chloe , just put out a pair of fluid pants, a nice blouse, a nice bag. I don't give Gabriela more than a year, nothing here is appealing. Hannah MacGibbon had the last laugh. Her designs were 10000X better than this garbage.

The house really lost its way after Hannah, zero identity now. Tragique.

 

[Ruito]

No, I will take Natacha Ramsay-Levi's Chole over this any day. Even the bar is so low nowadays, this collection belongs to NYFW at its best!

you're saying it like NYFW doesn't matter. You don't necessarily need to show in Paris to give your brand prestige. Just take a look at Marc Jacobs for example.

 

[Ruito]

I don't think it was a complete mess like many people here but it was definitely underwhelming. Most of all, it was very Gabriela Hearst (take that how you want). You couldn't distinguish between a Gabriela Hearst collection and a Chloé by Gabriela Hearst collection if you didn't know what collection you were seeing. I was never a fan of Natasha Ramsay-Levi (enjoyed a few stuff, won't lie) but at least she brought a different kind of energy to the house. It was messier, more playful and she wasn't afraid of mixing styles and patterns. This was way too generic.

 

[Lola701]

you're saying it like NYFW doesn't matter. You don't necessarily need to show in Paris to give your brand prestige. Just take a look at Marc Jacobs for example.

You don’t but Marc Jacobs is not necessary a great example nowadays...

I mean, the simple fact that he is not showing a runway collection send a signal regarding the relevancy of his brand (in terms of economy or cultural impact).

 

[Mathewthew]

I just wondering why they never promote Grabrielle Greiss as CD? I think she is there since Clare. I have doubt about Gabriela Hearst now, since her first collection is not interesting or attractive. I understand she may have a better future if she could create an IT bag or accessories.

 

[Deleted member 167090]

you're saying it like NYFW doesn't matter. You don't necessarily need to show in Paris to give your brand prestige. Just take a look at Marc Jacobs for example.

I am not diminishing NYFW, but there are very few brands there really matter nowadays. Looking back at the last decade, I can see that a lot of these brands have been losing their relevance over time. What do you think of the old guards like RL, ODLR, CH, DVF or even Ralph Rucci today, let alone the shutdowns of DK and CK. The new wave of designers like Proenza, The Row, Rodarte, or the Asian crowd such as A Wang, Jason W, Derek Lam, and Philip Lim are losing to those hype brands in general. As Lola pointed out, even Marc Jacobs is not doing good. What can people expect from NYFW in this new decade? Well, at leastＩ expect for nothing, not just in terms of NYFW but fashion in general.

 

[MulletProof]

^ I think ruito unintentionally called it like it is: no, NYFW does not matter and yes, Paris automatically gives you prestige, reason why Paris is currently a sweatshirt-and-socks overcrowded dumpster but expectations remain high. Marc Jacobs himself is an example.. not of NYFW's relevance, but of Paris' 'prestige'.. he can recycle, steal ideas, become a parody of himself, make little effort, gather every cliché.. and he's still considered respectable thanks to the heights reached via LV.

Back on topic, Chloé went on hiatus for me around 2009 but even in the years after that, I could still see the Chloé woman in every show.. a sort of relaxed, easy-breezy type of femininity and confidence. When I look at this.. I just get the major discomfort this girl is feeling.. is it the arm cellulite I can't unsee or the legs I can't see (weird for a Chloé show- I always get an urge to free my legs after seeing any Chloé show either through flow-y skirts or shorter anything).. I don't know, but this looks like a tribute to one of those rare days when nothing (hair, skin, body, mood, weather) feels right and your s*it outfit matches that..

Also, something awkward about wanting to pay homage to her Uruguayan gaucho background but the ponchos still look tragic next to the ones Phoebe did in 2004. Plus if your down jacket needs a poncho or your poncho needs a down jacket, you've got two bad purchases right there..

 

[gazebo]

Plus if your down jacket needs a poncho or your poncho needs a down jacket, you've got two bad purchases right there..

These are attached.

 

[fakeawake]

she literally just screenshotted her net a porter shopping cart and sent it off to the design team...

 

[disco54]

@fakeawake

lmaooooooooooo haha

 

[nigelraphe]

The bags look so ghetto and masculine.

I think Gabriella Hearst is not the right person to work for Chloe,
her design is not comparable to Clare and Natacha's design.

Sezane and Rouje even bring a more bohemian/feminine/carefree vibe than the current Chloe