Chloé S/S 2022 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[THD96]

A slightly better than her first collection. It's definitely less heavy and there are more flou but I see more Loewe than I see Chloé.

I like the backless red dress and the last two dresses, those are the most Chloé about this collection.

 

[perhydrol]

This collection is super weird to me. On the one hand, there are some nice clothes, with the first look being the best. On the other, we got some frumpy macrame pieces and pedestrian silhouettes. Basically, this collection felt like a sequel to Gabriela Hearst's show, she just added those macrame pieces, crystals, fringes, and the Edith bag. I also don't get the point of showing those suits, because they were extremely bland and it was the same silhouette repeated a few times.

As a whole, those clothes feel boring and conservative. Don't get me wrong, Chloe is not a house I'd associate with being ultra sexy, but at the same time, there has been no life in Hearst's offerings so far. Gabriela has killed any excitement and at the same time, she's not able to create any fresh attitude. There's no sense of humor nor the feeling of a real fashion proposition. Her Chloe woman got serious to the point of being avoided by her ex-friends because all she had to say was how she had bought a new mindfulness coloring book.

This collection is not as bad as the two previous ones, but it's not good, either.

 

[SophiaVB]

I walked around stores this weekend & Saks merchandised Gabriella Hearst & Chloe next to each other in visual displays. They looked almost identical....

 

[Fulton St Critique]

I have been doing lots of reading about and thinking on this appointment since its inception. Why is GH taking such extreme explorative measures to try to an reconnect to the houses founder?

She often speaks on this and how important Chloe was for defining a freer form of feminine dressing, and rightfully so, it was transformational. However, I cannot escape the notion that she is taking way to of a literal stance on this matter. Gaby Aghion found success through her expansion and push into net-a-porte. When looking back at those very first collections in the 50s, it is evident just how drastically societal dress codes have changed. We are living in a freer, more self expressive time period when compared to 70s years ago.

GH fails to engage with this notion entirely. Even going back to both stints from Lagerfeld, he along with his team were able to introduce the boho-chic identity that was furthered by Stella and ultimately by Philo. So much progress had been made it is a shame to see just how far back in time the label has fallen.

My issue with the direction is not regarding formation or construction but rather of style. What young adult shopper seriously wants to look so matronly? There are a plethora of other brands in Europe doing that act. I fear this chapter of Chloe will represent a forceful nostalgic frame that is impossible to recover from.

 

[jeanclaude]

Clothes from a hippie street-market mixed with some generic urban garments. It does not look expensive at all.

 

[RedSmokeRise]

I don't hate it but it's definitely not good. It's also not very Chloe either. There goes another beloved brand down the drain I guess....

 

[dior_couture1245]

Horrid. Absolutely horrid. Like I've said before...her ECO schtick is so obnoxious because there's nothing "sustainable" about making such useless clothes.

These clothes have zero personality. Everything here is so freakin' dull and dreary. There's nothing compelling about any of it. How could anyone care about this stuff? It's just sloppy and unimaginative.

Chloe now could really stand to have a bit of the Lagerfeld spirit. It needs to feel pragmatic and cheeky again. The brand has gotten to hung up on boho and that look just isn't working anymore. It's become so slovenly and droopy with doodads hanging off everything everywhere. That's been the problem with the brand for years now. I would much rather see some nice crisp, feminine tailoring, easy shift dresses, a few pretty pouf sleeve dresses, maybe some archival prints, a few decorative elements like Karl's crystal faucets or violin, for example, and some unfussy shoes and bags. Done.

 

[disco54]

This is atrocious, Natacha was light years better. I guess the morbidly obese, middle-aged Eco-Friendly lesbian demographic is where all the money is be to made (sarcasm) .

 

[entten]

this is the most boring and irrelevant Chloe era ever. done by an american whoever designer.

 

[Vitamine W]

Well. It's over.

 

[WAVES]

the strongest look is number 7 (model with the mustardish maxi dress), it looked great in motion.

everything was rather boring, too hippie but without much creativity (or any…) and too many dangling things.

also, the jewellery…

 

[perhydrol]

Chloe now could really stand to have a bit of the Lagerfeld spirit. It needs to feel pragmatic and cheeky again. The brand has gotten to hung up on boho and that look just isn't working anymore. It's become so slovenly and droopy with doodads hanging off everything everywhere. That's been the problem with the brand for years now. I would much rather see some nice crisp, feminine tailoring, easy shift dresses, a few pretty pouf sleeve dresses, maybe some archival prints, a few decorative elements like Karl's crystal faucets or violin, for example, and some unfussy shoes and bags. Done.

Paradoxically, I think Hannah MacGibbon would be thriving in the current state of fashion. Her later collections were pragmatic and felt truly luxurious, but at the same time, they were young in their attitude. Sure, she wouldn't fit the Insta-baddie narrative that is, unfortunately, the dominant one now, but she was miles ahead GH.

When it comes to the spirit of Lagerfeld, I think Natacha Ramsay-Levi actually understood the visual aspect of his work and used to reference to his prints and silhouettes. She was a little bit too serious, but so was Clare Waight Keller. Maybe it's the sense of humour that has been lacking at this brand. Meanwhile all Gabriela Hearst could do to reference Chloe's past designers was to make Sheltersuits out of the deadstock fabrics.

BTW Chloe will be 70 years old next year and I think, unfortunately, those clothes will fit that age perfectly.

 

[disco54]

Paradoxically, I think Hannah MacGibbon would be thriving in the current state of fashion. Her later collections were pragmatic and felt truly luxurious, but at the same time, they were young in their attitude. Sure, she wouldn't fit the Insta-baddie narrative that is, unfortunately, the dominant one now, but she was miles ahead GH.

When it comes to the spirit of Lagerfeld, I think Natacha Ramsay-Levi actually understood the visual aspect of his work and used to reference to his prints and silhouettes. She was a little bit too serious, but so was Clare Waight Keller. Maybe it's the sense of humour that has been lacking at this brand. Meanwhile all Gabriela Hearst could do to reference Chloe's past designers was to make Sheltersuits out of the deadstock fabrics.

BTW Chloe will be 70 years old next year and I think, unfortunately, those clothes will fit that age perfectly.

Yes , in a sense when I see this its Hanna's revenge and curse. Chloe did her dirty. I completely agree , Hanna's youthful aesthetic was ahead of her time and would appeal to the TikTok and Instagram girls.
This show from 10 years ago is more relevant than the horse sh!t being served by GH.

 

[Overindulgence]

It's not terrible, it's just so dull and slightly soulless for something that is supposed to be optimistic--almost like it's masquerading as optimism. It seems that this will be Chloe's case of an Alexander Wang x Balenciaga, in which the designer gains more for their namesake brand (and ultimately cares about it more) from the partnership than the bigger label that they are employed at.

 

[disco54]

This is atrocious, Natacha was light years better. I guess the morbidly obese, middle-aged Eco-Friendly lesbian demographic is where all the money is be to made (sarcasm) .

type o

This is atrocious, Natacha was light years better. I guess the morbidly obese, middle-aged Eco-Friendly lesbian demographic is where all the money is to be made (sarcasm)

 

[Frederic01]

I might be in the minority, but I actually like this show. The tailoring is strong and the simplicity of her aesthetic is quite beautiful and serene. It also feels quite effortless and nonchalant in a way that Natacha's Chloé never was. Her designs were too messy, with too many accessories, too many prints, and tried way too hard to be "cool". Some of those collections looked like Coach by Stuart Vevers.

Also the fabrics and textures she uses within the show are quite extraordinary. Some details from VogueRunway.com/.

 

[entten]

Yes , in a sense when I see this its Hanna's revenge and curse. Chloe did her dirty. I completely agree , Hanna's youthful aesthetic was ahead of her time and would appeal to the TikTok and Instagram girls.
This show from 10 years ago is more relevant than the horse sh!t being served by GH.

She was my favourite for Chloe. Her Collections and campaigns represented the perfect Chloe girl to me. No one did it better

 

[Lola701]

I mean this is so disconnected to the brand or even the spirit of the brand. There’s nothing Parisian, rive gauche about it.

She clearly hasn’t spent time in Paris.

The Chloe woman is on the go, she is living an active life. Clothes needs to be stylish, easy, functional and versatile. Where is the flou?

Who are those clothes for? What is she doing at Chloe?
Because let’s be honest even in a global market, people still need to identify with a clear vision.

 

[GivenchyAddict]

She is such a bad designer. At least with Natacha, Chloe's DNA still felt present. For me this is just an American designer showing a collection in Paris.

Chloe seems to be a brand very difficult for designers to understand... And I don't understand why.