For the past 10 years Galliano has loyally adhered to the codes established in his first couture show, the iconic "Masai" collection. This reprises the grandeur of of his French debut verbatim from the exoticism, to the classic Dior parallels, and of course the conspicuous pageantry. For me, the exoticism that once echoed the beauty of Poiret now seems ethnocentric and slightly ill-informed. Origami dresses and Kimono/empire evening dresses utilize no subtlety. In an age when designers like Yohji Yamamoto and Issey Miyake have have established themselves as fashion icons I fail to see what Galliano's touristy notion of Japanese aesthetics can offer. He's patronizing Japanese culture in a way that seems especially naive and European, old old world Europe.
The spectacle of the dresses are exactly that, a spectacle. Galliano's original goal was to revive couture, to make it relevant. But this is as trite and inaccessible as it gets. I don't see how these clothes fit with today's world. This only explains how far removed the world of couture truly is and belies it's true purpose as an uber-marketing tool.
But, I think I can allow myself to put these thoughts aside. There IS true wizardry at work. The sculpted shapes, the vivid colors, the intense and dramatic handwork, it's all surreal. It could be called bad taste or ostentatious but that's a matter of personal opinion isn't it? Perhaps couture shouldn't be about selling handbags or self-congratulatory displays of theater, but it can be about grace and beauty. And Galliano certainly believes so. This sort of opulence seems to be outmoded, obsolete. It doesn't connect with the spirit of the times and says nothing of the world today. But, for at least two days a year, I can put aside my discerning eye and critical mind and dream a little. And it's such a beautiful dream.