Christopher John Rogers Pre-Fall 2024 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[tourbillions]

why does christian siriano have 2 collections

 

[LadyJunon]

He keeps on getting better.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ Absolutely.

I suppose it’s a matter of personal taste that he would be instantly dismissed alongside someone like Siriano with the distant similarity of saccharine frothiness on first impression. But given half a chance, he’s so much better and leagues above that Barbie wardrobe for drag queens. His sense of dynamic proportion and dramatic silhouette that’s at once playful, easygoing and glam is so classic Americana. And none of it would have worked if he didn’t make the effort to have impressively improved from collection to collection with the construction. Looking at his earlier offerings from just a few years ago, it’s really like going from amateur high school sewing class to a professional and seasoned dressmaker here. If only the rest of his American contemporaries made half the effort he does. The design treatments are still a tad deja vu of Gaultier and Galliano; but it’s a charming Southern Americana take on these giants, while still inflecting his own identity.

Still don’t like the prints that resemble the seasonal Target patio collection. And whoever’s directing his cast to pose like Macy’s mannequins of the 1980s needs to stop, because it’s really dragging down his branding.

 

[Lola701]

The influence of Galliano and Stephen Burrows is very obvious in this collection but it’s so well executed and desirable that I can’t help but applaud.

It’s going from strength to strength and I think the presentation for this collection is already an elevation from what we are used from him.

‘There are some fabulous pieces here, even in the more commercial pieces.

I think he needs to push even more his standards, push the quality and the presentation of his collections. It’s also maybe now the time to stop presenting his runway collections in impersonal empty warehouses.

La chambre syndicale made a huge mistake by inviting Kerby Jean Raymond. They could redeem themselves by having CJR in the calendar. I think this should be his ambition!

 

[Phuel]

^^^ Those that scream the loudest ad kick the hardest are usually proven to be all bark and no bite. I admire that he’s just quietly letting his designs do all the talking (…and with some strong strategic branding maneuvering, of course).

His more commercial pieces are actually the strengths of this offering— and what’s becoming an impressive arsenal of his brand. The obvious celeb/editorial-baiitng of the more extravagant flared-peplums are actually the weaker fashion tropes. But I get it: In these lesser days, the more attention-grabbing designs are what will catch the children’s eyes while they swipe right on their phones.

The classic staples of suiting, jackets and the white shirt that mutates into glorious confections of robes, dresses and gowns with the simplest of ease, and still so well constructed, are really good. He’s clearly put a lot of thought into how such elevated staples would work on his customer, and how these are the designs will work effortlessly into their wardrobe.

 

[Constructionist]

Excellent collection!

I've seen CJR slandered here and you'll think that he's Harris Reed or something.

He has an eye for proportions and doesn't just make stuff to fit in or join the latest craze (boring minimalism).

His use of patterns may be hit or miss but when it's a hit, it is quite fantastic!

 

[Nimsay]

Its excellent

 

[Cocteau Stone]

He is getting better by the seasons and there are some great pieces in here, and I'm warming up to him as the seasons go by.

The prints and colours are actually pleasant to the eyes, it's just when there's this much variety of them all in the one showing it's all too much to take in and appreciate. The simpler pieces are what really shine through here. Highlight his understanding of cut and flattery of the body which works in his favour. I think the collection he did for Target two years ago helped him realise the necessity for simpler pieces that are more accessible but still fit with the scope of the brand.

But then there are segments of the collection that don't fit with the rest (like the first 10 looks against the last 10) or pieces like look 34 that leave me scratching my head. I'd suggest leaving the voluminous dresses and excess gathering to the runway offerings as I'm sure in motion they'd be rather enamouring in person, leaving the pre-collections to be about simplicity and rigour.

Mind you, his relaxed way with crinolines and foundations alongside a very playful way with draping, I wonder if it is worth seeing him try his hand at Lanvin? Or as @Lola701 mentioned, invited to the couture calendar for a few seasons.

 

[lhhbl]

It's very good, some Galliano hints and overal perfectly executed.

This is stunning and so is this!

 

[Lola701]

Mind you, his relaxed way with crinolines and foundations alongside a very playful way with draping, I wonder if it is worth seeing him try his hand at Lanvin? Or as @Lola701 mentioned, invited to the couture calendar for a few seasons.

The thing about CJR is that I think he is a good designer but I’m not sure he would be a good creative director.
But at the same time, he is totally deserving of working with a skilled Couture atelier that can execute his vision with extreme sophistication.
The reality of his woman is that attends the same events that the Carolina Herrera and Oscar de La Renta woman attend but at the same time, his knitwear and commercial pieces allowed to be more versatile in the events she attends.

I think he is heading a Brandon Maxwell kind of success or Sergio Hudson but he has that knitwear that women around the world can wear that can allowed him to be more than that.

I’m really seeing pieces here that I want to buy. And it’s not a feeling that I always have with American designers.

 

[RaisinBoy]

Is he going to McQueen?? Raf was at the show… Maybe Miumiu?!?