Christopher Kane F/W 2023.24 London

[gazebo]

When he started he was the best around by far. Then he got la bit lost and doubtful for some time.
I bet this collection signifies the beginning of his return to greatness.
who cares about women who won't buy the rodent dress, or buyers having to work hard?? Is this really the way you want to judge a fashion offering??

 

[Deleted member 7575]

When he started he was the best around by far. Then he got la bit lost and doubtful for some time.
I bet this collection signifies the beginning of his return to greatness.
who cares about women who won't buy the rodent dress, or buyers having to work hard?? Is this really the way you want to judge a fashion offering??

Greatness? HA! These clothes are cheap and stupid. Made like SH!T.

I'm judging it on the quality of the ideas and execution, in both parts this collection fails

It's like student work. I don't see much more than gimmicks and tricks.

He never grew up or matured into a real designer.

Btw, trying to buy a collection that has nothing good to sell is not hard work. That's called a miracle.

 

[gazebo]

Greatness? HA! These clothes are cheap and stupid. Made like SH!T.

I'm judging it on the quality of the ideas and execution, in both parts this collection fails

It's like student work. I don't see much more than gimmicks and tricks.

He never grew up or matured into a real designer.

Btw, trying to buy a collection that has nothing good to sell is not hard work. That's called a miracle.

Sellability is not at all a priority to me. The problem with fashion today is over-sellability; So much top quality merchandise; From Fendi to Celine, from Versace to Dior! For me a good designer doesn't ask women what they want; they dictate it!

 

[Deleted member 7575]

Sellability is not at all a priority to me. The problem with fashion today is over-sellability; So much top quality merchandise; From Fendi to Celine, from Versace to Dior! For me a good designer doesn't ask women what they want; they dictate it!

Well they're not much of a dictator if no one buys their clothes, are they?

 

[Salvatore]

Sellability is not at all a priority to me. The problem with fashion today is over-sellability; So much top quality merchandise; From Fendi to Celine, from Versace to Dior! For me a good designer doesn't ask women what they want; they dictate it!

I understand what you’re saying and I agree there’s too much merchandise. However, in my opinion, Christopher Kane is lacking something he had before a little and that is desirability. I don’t feel his offerings have that it factor anymore which then furthers the possible inability to really sell.

 

[perhydrol]

I don't think he lacks desirability, in my opinion he just lost his track after the deal with Kering. Before that, he had commercial stuff which was nerdy enough to be interesting, pretty sellable and trendy. Then, he moved on to that awkward phase of being experimentative and now, when he doesn't have the support of Kering, he's been regurgirating his archives all over again. I honestly don't know where he wants to take his brand, but having that AI-generated rat print and pushing the More Joy merch at the same time is not the right path.

 

[gazebo]

Well they're not much of a dictator if no one buys their clothes, are they?

I understand what you’re saying and I agree there’s too much merchandise. However, in my opinion, Christopher Kane is lacking something he had before a little and that is desirability. I don’t feel his offerings have that it factor anymore which then furthers the possible inability to really sell.

I think we're all in agreement, I just still believe in him and his talent, I am liking this collection, and I predict him getting back on track.

 

[THD96]

I don't think that he is a bad designer, I think he just lost. His brand has been quite directionless for a few years now.
His recent collections always look so unestablished in terms of execution and ideas.
He was at his peak with his Fall 2015 collection, after that everything has been with meh.

As for this collection, I think the intention is bigger than the execution.
Ironically I think he needs to have More Joy because despite the animal prints I don't see any sense of humor in this.

As for the buyer discussion, I mean considering what they have to endure during NY that rat dress is hardly the worst thing they have to order. With the standards of NYFW being on the floor in terms of literally everything, this collection is doing just fine.

Side note: thank god we started with NY because can you imagine if it was reversed? imagine starting with Paris and ending with NY, I would quit fashion for sure.

 

[LadyJunon]

Side note: thank god we started with NY because can you imagine if it was reversed? imagine starting with Paris and ending with NY, I would quit fashion for sure.

That would most likely kill of London and New York for good in all honesty. I'm certain that the reason that New York and London are tolerated is because, we're "rewarded" with Milan and Paris after.

I'm certain that, if the schedule was reversed, at least half of the international industry would drop the month after Milan.

 

[GoldenPetals]

I've always had a soft sport for Kane. Maybe I like an underdog - he never really STUCK anywhere (remember his stint at VERSUS?!).

I think he has good ideas, but most of this production is awful! The best constructed parts are probably the ruffles, but unfortunately they're also the ugliest parts of the collection. Is he suffering from underfunding?

 

[HazJW]

I think he might have heard somebody catcall a woman with 'get yer rat out love!' and got the wrong end of the stick somehow.