Cloak Uncloaked

[softgrey]

i don't know...i was drawn to the dark romanticism of cloak at the beginning...
not feeling it as much now...

i just find the 'gentleman's club' vibe to be pretty unoriginal...
and it doesn't appeal to me...
although it may in fact look lovely to some who enjoy that aesthetic...
but as i said earlier...i won't know for sure until i walk by and check it out for myself...

 

[zamb]

all you guys made some very good coments, but there is something that is always too often neglected in some of these discussions. the designer business is not an easy one. it is very expensive to produce high fashion. how many men in new york city wear the kind of clothing that alexandre produces to support a profitable business. if we as designers are going to survive, we are forced to make artistic compromises, therefore clothes often has to be made in larger sizes for a man with a little paunch and a big wallet. we designers dont have a bottomless cashpots, therefore at a certain point in our work we have to divert somewhat from our original vision to accomodate the needs of real people, who are essentially our clients ($5000 per month PR. Fabrics, rent, employees, Patterns, imaging, Fashion shows, etc.) I havent been to the store as yet but i will go and check it out, i went to opening ceremony earlier this week and they were encouraging me to go and check it out (seems they had some kind of input in it) and there are indeed more american designers (though not many) doing interesting menswear, Ron and Ron for eg. but no one seems to be paying them much attention. also in comparison to eouropean designers like dior homme, it is not the source of your ideas that makes your work interesting, it is the traslation of those ideas, and as to so far alexandre is doing a very good job of translating his ideas in an original way.....

 

[baklanyc]

i don't know...i was drawn to the dark romanticism of cloak at the beginning...
not feeling it as much now...

i just find the 'gentleman's club' vibe to be pretty unoriginal...
and it doesn't appeal to me...
although it may in fact look lovely to some who enjoy that aesthetic...
but as i said earlier...i won't know for sure until i walk by and check it out for myself...

I certainly didn't like the sketch, but let me put it this way - I enjoyed shopping there (even if I didn't want the clothing that badly). I especially liked the effect of the high, ebonized wall of library books (a specific volume in the wall was actually their lookbook), and the 'hidden' door that led to the dressing room was great. And yes, the gentleman's club concept isn't original, but of course, few things in fashion are. I think that how they realized the particular concept gave it a polished spin.

I too think the clothing has become just cerebral and dark as opposed to darkly romantic. I definitely agree with you there, soft, about how it seems to have changed direction a bit.

I forgot to mention, I give a lot of credit to Robert Geller for Cloak's former styling because when he was part of it, both he and another (now-gone) Cloak staffer seemed to dress that way and actually embody the style of the clothing on a daily basis. I have no proof of his contributions, however, just a hunch. But Alexandre has said himself (at men.style.com) that he isn't his own customer.

 

[baklanyc]

all you guys made some very good coments, but there is something that is always too often neglected in some of these discussions. the designer business is not an easy one. it is very expensive to produce high fashion. how many men in new york city wear the kind of clothing that alexandre produces to support a profitable business. if we as designers are going to survive, we are forced to make artistic compromises, therefore clothes often has to be made in larger sizes for a man with a little paunch and a big wallet. we designers dont have a bottomless cashpots, therefore at a certain point in our work we have to divert somewhat from our original vision to accomodate the needs of real people, who are essentially our clients ($5000 per month PR. Fabrics, rent, employees, Patterns, imaging, Fashion shows, etc.) I havent been to the store as yet but i will go and check it out, i went to opening ceremony earlier this week and they were encouraging me to go and check it out (seems they had some kind of input in it) and there are indeed more american designers (though not many) doing interesting menswear, Ron and Ron for eg. but no one seems to be paying them much attention. also in comparison to eouropean designers like dior homme, it is not the source of your ideas that makes your work interesting, it is the traslation of those ideas, and as to so far alexandre is doing a very good job of translating his ideas in an original way.....

Zamb, I know too well what you speak of, working in a designer fashion company as I do (and having to deal with production, budgets, and the effects of what your actual clientele will or will not buy, as well as how it affects your brand). I'm just speaking as a consumer who spent thousands of dollars on Cloak in previous seasons, but who will now move on to other brands that fit me better, both in sizing and design. Brands evolve, and so should our wardrobes!

By the way, Opening Ceremony opened the store for Cloak. The store is officially listed in the phone listings as "Cloak by Opening Ceremony." Or so the operator told me when I asked for the number.

 

[zamb]

yes, seems like humberto and those guys have a bottomless cashpot. it was nice of them to do that for him though, as much as there are some things happenning in the industry that i detest with a voilent passion (the celebrity designer trend, thats turning N.Y. fashion week into a three ring circus) there are some good things happening. such as; the ecco domani fashion fund, the UPS support to emerging designers (although they did'nt give me any )vogue/ CFDA fashion fund, joseph abbouds' financial contribution. things are looking up in terms of support for independents...........i hope they will soon give me some

 

[baklanyc]

Re: Opening Ceremony: Humberto is so nice, and he's always supporting cool independent/upcoming designers. I sometimes wonder how that store makes any money, because it's so hidden away without any real foot traffic. Supposedly Cloak did really well for them in the store, hence the opening of the Cloak flagship. I hope Alexandre does well - I think he has a unique point of view that isn't addressed in the NY market (and I'd love to see if Robert Geller does something on his own, as well).

 

[raijin]

Can anyone give some feedback on the quality of Cloak's suits?

Im thinking of purchasing a peak lapel light grey pinstripe suit from this seasons collection in lieu of a suit by raf simons or CCP.

 

[drexl]

Can anyone give some feedback on the quality of Cloak's suits?

Im thinking of purchasing a peak lapel light grey pinstripe suit from this seasons collection in lieu of a suit by raf simons or CCP.

The only suit I've tried on was from FW 2004, and it was only the jacket, but I must admit it fit great and the fabric was very nice (super 120 wool). I think bakla or kLM would give you a better opinion on them though...

BTW, there's a black suit on auction.yahoo.co.jp for cheap in a size 44 if that's your size.

 

[zamb]

i went to opening ceremony and saw thier work firsthand, as a matter of fact, i applied thier for a job once and was interviewed by alexandre, they showed me some samples and the quality seemed very good, so as of now i would say it is worth buying as i know a well made garment when i see it. whose menswear i saw at opening ceremony and was'nt fond of was mary ping's. I saw a linen suit there by her and the quality was terrible. as much as i have a soft spot for her (i dont know why, but i do like her even though her work is not my style) I think she should really make an effort to improve the quality of her menswear or find someone to help her with it that knows how to develop really good quality menswear

 

[Lena]

.... the designer business is not an easy one. it is very expensive to produce high fashion. how many men in new york city wear the kind of clothing that alexandre produces to support a profitable business. if
....we designers dont have a bottomless cashpots, therefore at a certain point in our work we have to divert somewhat from our original vision to accomodate the needs of real people, who are essentially our clients ($5000 per month PR. Fabrics, rent, employees, Patterns, imaging, Fashion shows, etc.)
...... also in comparison to european designers like dior homme, it is not the source of your ideas that makes your work interesting, it is the traslation of those ideas, and as to so far alexandre is doing a very good job of translating his ideas in an original way.....

excellent post
just dont give up and please.. do avoid any artistic compromises,
we are here to express ourselves, this is what is expected from us,
set your own rules

on Cloak (who for a strange reason haven't followed since a very long time
>it's imposible to compaire an indie label to a mega lux fashion House, we are talking different worlds..

 

[faust]

I went to the store yesterday. It's gorgeous. It's not a gentleman's club at all. It's not turn the of 20th century dandy London, but turn of the 20th century aristocratic Russia - more austere and gothic.

Bakla described the clothes pretty well. The fabrics are OUTSTANDING (but will they stand the test of time?). The details are great, painstaiking without being showy, they don't scream "designer," say like a Dior Homme zipper. But, there is something that does not speak to me, and I can understand Bakla. There were plenty of items that I felt like I almost wanted to buy, but not really. The prices were all over the place. There were $350 jeans next to $800 coats

I did not try anything on, so I can't speak about the cut. In any case, I wish Alexandr good luck, as he is still far better than anything else that US fashion scene has to offer.

 

[jhaime]

I have to travel to London to get aywhere near cloak, Harvey Nichols in Knightsbridge are the only seller in the UK as far as I'm aware. you guys are so lucky...

 

[unmetro]

Cloak Store mentioned at Refinery29.com

http://www.refinery29.com/archives/editorial-features/000194.php
short editorial...the sites a bit like 'superfuture'...

 

[Scott]

yeaaa....I did my first merge!!

 

[softgrey]

thank you so much scott...and congrats!!!...
i was waiting for it......


**yes-i'm a neat freak...

 

[Scott]

^thanks,Softie

**becoming one myself,must admit

 

[softgrey]

ot-just remember...www.dictionary.com is your friend when it comes to titles...

 

[jhaime]

Thanks for that article Unmetro a nice little site too...unearthed some of New Yorks better known boutiques

 

[faust]

A model fully Cloaked is on the back cover of this season's Barneys men's catalogue B)

I just realised something. I haven't seen the blue cardigan from this season that everyone liked so much on the runway.

 

[amblus]

Can anyone give some feedback on the quality of Cloak's suits?

Im thinking of purchasing a peak lapel light grey pinstripe suit from this seasons collection in lieu of a suit by raf simons or CCP.

stopped by the new store and had a look at the clothes, in particular the suits. i was pleasantly surprised by the quality. all the jackets i looked at were fully canvassed and featured hand finishing: all had handsewn buttonholes on coat front and the lapel, which also featured a flower keeper; one of the lighter gray suits had pick-stitched lapels and pocket flaps; the lining was hand-felled at several points, eg., near the vents and the armholes; i believe the arms and collar are attached by hand, but i'm not 100% sure. some of the pants (sold as separates) also had hand-stitching at the front and coin pockets, and i believe the waistband is attached by hand.

overall, i thought the quality was very good, with more handwork than the dior suits i've seen (and better fabrics IMO). very decently priced too.

myself, i drooled over the racoon-trimmed parka & the leather hussar's jacket. and my god, the shoes. i'm saving my pennies now ...