Coach S/S 2022 New York

I would believe if someone told me that this was Collina Strada with bigger budget. Coach has been such a disappointment, the first Vevers's collections were very focused and actually promising, and then he went for the Gucci route. Now it's not even Gucci-lite, it's just high street via thrift shop. The more experimental pieces seemed to be influenced by JWA's Loewe, but they didn't work in the context of Coach, same with the awkward sense of humour.
 
The first few looks almost sent me into anaphylactic shock, I'm seriously allergic to oversized houndstooth AND denim bermudas, specially worn like that!

I hope my body can soon recover from this dreadful sight, pray for me!
 
I find it quite funny that now Coach is doing the kind of NY « underground » aesthetic. Suddenly, Coach is in the same conversation as Ecklaus Latta and others…
I don’t know what it means in terms of relevance but I can also see a lot of people being attracted to this aesthetic.

It’s hard for me to have a personal appreciation of this. It’s just clothes but in terms of quality it still feels more elevated than all the other « underground » NY brands…While being totally empty of imagination/proposition.
 
A rancid parade of Bonnie Cashin´s vintage jackets and coats, mixed with 70s denim leftovers and stupid t-shirts.
 
I posted this on Twitter already, but I truly believe Vevers lost confidence in himself. His first two collections for Coach were victories for both himself and the leather goods house. There was something to work with even if they looked like direct copies from a Little House of the Prairie spoof. Since then, we’ve witnessed an unbalanced act of lawlessness that does not fit a sound context. Pure chaos.
 
^^^ With these American brands nowadays, I always click on the thumb of the designer first— and most of the time, it’s the only shot that I need to look at that reveals their whole story with their chosen sensibility by what they’ve decided to wear themselves. You can tell a lot. And most of the times, there’s such a permeating phoniness that’s blatantly revealed so that there’s no need to actually click on the fashions.
 

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