Comme Des Garcons - Guerrilla Stores

[thomas28]

Guerilla Store. In Berlin, in the "historic Mitte district," Adrian Joffe and his avant-garde designer wife, Rei Kawakubo, are opening a clothes store that they plan to close a year from now -- even if it is successful, reports Cathy Horyn in The New York Times. The couple is spending just $2,500 to fix up their 700-square-foot retail space, not even bothering "to remove the name of the previous tenant from the windows." Advertising will be by poster and word-of-mouth. From the retailer's perspective, it's all about keeping things fresh in the highly perishable world of fashion. "Of course it seems outrageous to close something once it becomes a success and I think we will be successful," says Adrian Joffe. "But to be creative at anything takes an unbelievable amount of energy, and the minute you start to feel content with your success is when you lose it. You don't want to get too comfortable."

By next year, Adrian and Rei plan to open 20 such stores, called Comme des Garcons Guerilla Store, all of which "will adopt the same drive-by strategy, disappearing after a year." What for them is a creative spark is for shoppers a refreshing departure from globalized fashion. "I think people are tired of things you can get everywhere in the world," says one happy shopper as she picks out an orange-checked skirt and eyes a pair of silver sneakers. "What you'll see," says Seth Matlins of Creative Artists Agency, "is that distribution will become the message." He says that today's influences are "terrifically eclectic," noting how much stuff kids buy on eBay these days. Melissa Kirgan, a 23-year-old graduate of the Fashion Institute of Technology who has formed "a collective of designers and artists," meanwhile comments: "Our approach is anti-Wal-Mart. It's turning against all the branding and noise."

Indeed, the inspiration for the Guerilla Store came not from another fashion retailer but from a Vietnamese noodle bar and a boutique run by "a group of artists" -- neither of which devoted "a great deal of attention to decor or displays. As Cathy Horyn observes: "Unconsciously or not, their owners were recognizing a fundamental shift in young consumers' attitudes: that content and product now counts for more than image." That concept is already bubbling up to fashion's establishment. Dior ceo Sidney Toledano says Apple's retail stores are the model: "I learn more from a store like that than I do fashion stores," he says, explaining, "You're not just buying merchandising, you're exchanging information." The Guerilla Store bring its "paradigm of impermanence" to America this September, with a store in Brooklyn.

Coke's Growth Strategy. A new book "tells a story too often overlooked in the fabled history of the world's biggest soft-drink company," writes Greg Farrell in USA Today. The book, called The Real Thing, is about Coca-Cola, of course, and it was written by Constance L. Hayes, the New York Times reporter. In it, Connie chronicles "how a network of independent bottlers pounded the pavement and drove the back roads of the USA to spur the growth of Coke's domestic business.

Distribution, distribution, distribution. "In its early years," notes Greg Farrell, "Coca-Cola was primarily a fountain drink." That changed, however, when "a handful of risk-taking entrepreneurs in Atlanta" convinced "Coke's founder, Asa Candler, of the need to sell the fizzy soft drink in bottles ... Candler is skeptical of the bottlers' ideas but sees no downside in allowing these men to stimulate new demand for his product by taking it on trucks and wagons to hard-to-reach places ... As a result, Candler enters into a series of contracts with the bottlers that helps turn Coke into the nation's most beloved drink" and "allows the bottlers to stake out regional territories they can control in perpetuity."

The book also gets into the Roberto Goizueta, Don Keough and Doug Ivester years, including "Goitzueta's masterful transformation of the company from a staid old American icon to a growth stock," as well as the contrasting personalities of Keough (warm) and Ivester (cold). You can read all about Ivester's rough ride -- the foiled attempt to buy Cadbury Schweppes ... the Belgian students who got sick drinking Coke products and the resulting European ban on Coke that lasted several weeks ... and the African-American employee lawsuits charging race discrimination. Yes, plenty of corporate intrigue to go around, although that distribution storyline is pretty hard to beat for take-away value.

Tim Manners, editor

 

[faust]

Originally posted by Scott@Feb 20th, 2004 - 1:03 am
I remember I went to Ann Demeulemeester's stock shop(as it was called by a friend)and had that same non-decorated,racks and tables vibe. Of course, that's also a permanent thing too not a 1 year shop but I suppose its similar. Though,I will admit very private.

Where is THAT store??? She's my favorite

 

[Scott]

It was almost at the port of the Schelde river in Antwerp. Almost all the Belgian designers have a stock shop there. But I wouldn't have known or even went if it hadn't been for my friend who's a fashion journalist.

 

[faust]

Originally posted by Scott@Feb 20th, 2004 - 11:29 am
It was almost at the port of the Schelde river in Antwerp. Almost all the Belgian designers have a stock shop there. But I wouldn't have known or even went if it hadn't been for my friend who's a fashion journalist.

Cool. Is it open to simple mortals? Because one day I'm definitely going back to Antwerp.

 

[Scott]

Of course. But its quite like the guerilla approach-word of mouth.

 

[faust]

Originally posted by Scott@Feb 20th, 2004 - 1:09 pm
Of course. But its quite like the guerilla approach-word of mouth.

I'll remember you when I go there next time

 

[Scott]

Maybe I'll be there already and we could go together. One thing though,they don't take the plastic so you'll have to have the paper money. Otherwise you'd end up like me...just salivating over everything.

And everything is marked down tremendously--I was really disappointed that I couldn't get that painted linen jacket of hers for 150€.

Btw,are you selling an A.F. Vandevorst skirt on ebay? Sounded kind of like you....purchased in Antwerp last year,too big for the girlfriend,and from NYC.

 

[faust]

Originally posted by Scott@Feb 20th, 2004 - 4:25 pm
Maybe I'll be there already and we could go together. One thing though,they don't take the plastic so you'll have to have the paper money. Otherwise you'd end up like me...just salivating over everything.

And everything is marked down tremendously--I was really disappointed that I couldn't get that painted linen jacket of hers for 150€.

Btw,are you selling an A.F. Vandevorst skirt on ebay? Sounded kind of like you....purchased in Antwerp last year,too big for the girlfriend,and from NYC.

That'd be great!

No, not me (about A.F. skirt). I only buy on Ebay And my girlfriend became my wife last year

I'm honestly excited for you about moving to Antwerp. I really hope it works out for you, best of luck. I met a girl last year, she worked at IF Boutique (I'm not sure if you are familiar with that store, it has the biggest Margiela selection in the US), and she was also moving to Antwerp. I can't remember her name though.

 

[Scott]

Originally posted by faust+Feb 20th, 2004 - 4:10 pm--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(faust @ Feb 20th, 2004 - 4:10 pm)</div><div class='quotemain'> <!--QuoteBegin-Scott@Feb 20th, 2004 - 4:25 pm
Maybe I'll be there already and we could go together. One thing though,they don't take the plastic so you'll have to have the paper money. Otherwise you'd end up like me...just salivating over everything.

And everything is marked down tremendously--I was really disappointed that I couldn't get that painted linen jacket of hers for 150€.

Btw,are you selling an A.F. Vandevorst skirt on ebay? Sounded kind of like you....purchased in Antwerp last year,too big for the girlfriend,and from NYC.

That'd be great!

No, not me (about A.F. skirt). I only buy on Ebay And my girlfriend became my wife last year

I'm honestly excited for you about moving to Antwerp. I really hope it works out for you, best of luck. I met a girl last year, she worked at IF Boutique (I'm not sure if you are familiar with that store, it has the biggest Margiela selection in the US), and she was also moving to Antwerp. I can't remember her name though. [/b][/quote]


Well,I might be going to Paris or London first(depending upon whether I can get some assistance work or not)and then afterward....Antwerp.

I know of IF,yup. First shop in the US to carry MMM. I think the most attractive thing that interests people about Antwerp is the quiet atmosphere. Its like Jurgi said,its the only place he feels that if you were to drop of jar of jam in the supermarket,nobody would even raise an eyebrow. There's just this lack of judgement that I especially never felt being here.

 

[whizkit]

Anyone knows why CDG has stopped opening new guerilla stores?

 

[nqth]

I have heard about their plan in Istanbul and Argentina (a impressive one, container in a parking area). But I am also wondering why they are not operating yet.

 

[indie]

we have one here in finland and it's near

Whats the price range for example t-shirts?

 

[nqth]

100-150 euro here in Warsaw:-) But some Shirt, Play Ts are for 70-80.

 

[indie]

100-150 euro here in Warsaw:-) But some Shirt, Play Ts are for 70-80.

Thanks !

It's just little bit too expensive to me but I'd really really like to have one.

 

[faust]

It says on the website that the Berlin store is closed When is the Brooklyn store opening, dammit?!?!?!?!!!!!

 

[whizkit]

Perhaps there is no need for one in Brooklyn since there's already a CDG store in New York.

The Helsinki store looks great in the photos, with the checked floor and the wooden shelves.

 

[travolta]

maybe its lost its novelty already--also i think all the brooklynites could be moving to berlin...it said in the ny times recently it is the place to be....

 

[softgrey]

i've been wondering about the brooklyn store as well...
it's way past any opening date at this point...wonder what's going on...???

 

[cigaretiquette]

I've been to the Stockholm one
felt very cheated after all the raving reviews I read.
was hoping for a greater selection and a good room to screen the cloths but uh uh
no go

 

[whizkit]

I've been to the Stockholm one
felt very cheated after all the raving reviews I read.
was hoping for a greater selection and a good room to screen the cloths but uh uh
no go

The Stockholm store is indeed quite disappointing. It is just part of the office(of the design group which is managing the store) cordoned off by a curtain and some cardboard boxes. Totally lacks character. Perhaps it's a Scandinavian thing.


I've been to 3 other guerilla stores in Berlin, Barcelona and Singapore.

The Berlin store was charming. The Mitte area, where the store was, is generally quite rundown (former East Germany) but it totally fits with the character and the concept of the store.

The Barcelona store was gigantic and it was the most well stocked one. It looks too polished and not nitty gritty enough though. Don't go during siesta time, it's closed.

The Singapore store has no shop front. It is situated on a space above the ground level in Singapore's Chinatown. Accessible only through a narrow stairway that leads up from the street and marked only by a poster at the street entrance. Nice people running the store.

(left to rightStockholm,Berlin
Barcelona with interiors

No pics of the Singapore store, sorry, I live here, so I never bother to take photos.