Costume National Expands

[Orochian]

Originally posted by faust@Mar 3rd, 2004 - 11:57 am
I used to like Costume up to two years ago, when I realized that Ennio is basically playing it very safe by rehashing the same slick image. Once I looked in my closet and I saw it full of basics (albeit some quircky ones) from Costume, I said "enough". Their prices used to be way more affordable than a lot of stuff out there, but lately they've caught up with other designers, except that the quality didn't.

I don't have a problem with a safe approach, I find that wearable basics with a quirky twist often appeal to me the most, certainly more so than something whose trendiness would expire in a matter of weeks. But these days it's almost de rigeur for any designer piece, especially the basics, to have exceptional quality. I mean, beside the label, there has to be some rational justification for the huge premium they're charging - and sadly that's precisely what's lacking in Capasa's clothes.

I was just going through my wool sweaters the other day, and noticed that while some of the better ones have a percentage of natural fibres such as cashmere, silk, and mohair mixed into them, the two that I have by CN were made with wool and acrylic. Acrylic? Isn't that, like, a dirty word among fashion slaves?

I've sort of stopped buying CN, though I still find their runway pieces really attractive, hoping that one day they'll get the quality issue fixed. Let's just say their current direction of expansion isn't one that I had hoped for.

 

[macchiom]

I’ve actually only had good experience with the quality of the Costume National products I own with one exception being the assembly on a pair of gloves.

In my experience the quality of the shoes is at least on par with for example Dolce & Gabbana and Dries.

I’m a bit puzzled by the ‘attacks’ on the fabrics as Capasa’s philosophy, as far as I know, is to design everything with the fabrics as the starting point. And he really puts a lot of effort into choosing the fabrics and is not afraid to push the boundaries.

I don’t really agree with the acrylic remarks. Actually I’m wearing an Ann Demeulemeester sweater right now made of 30% Acrylic, 42% Merinoswool and 28% Alpaca wool and it feels absolutely nice and soft. I’ve also got a 100% acrylic Commes des Garcons Homme Plus blazer which is fantastic, IMO.

I guess my point is that he’s not alone in using acrylic, and mixing different kind of fibres can actually result in some fantastic fabrics.

As to C’N’C I will wait to pass judgement until I’ve seen more of it.

I remember a couple of years ago he denied that he was even considering to make a diffusion line, but times are changing, I guess…

I hope I make sense, English isn’t my native language, as you might have guessed…

 

[faust]

I don’t really agree with the acrylic remarks. Actually I’m wearing an Ann Demeulemeester sweater right now made of 30% Acrylic, 42% Merinoswool and 28% Alpaca

Hey, is that purple/blackish color? That's MY sweater!!!

I hope I make sense, English isn’t my native language, as you might have guessed…

Mmm, I didn't. Your English is perfect.

Welcome to tFS. There is a "where you are from" thread in the Spot section, post your location there!

 

[Orochian]

From my experience, synthetic fibres like nylon and acrylic are often added to very delicate hairs like mohair and alpaca in the making of sweaters, because those natural fibres alone are not strong enough to make a durable yarn. But if a sweater is part wool and part acrylic, where the wool is perfectly capable of holding itself together, my impression is that the acrylic is added in simply to save costs - as in the case of the two CN sweaters mentioned above. Yes, I'm a bit of a sweater freak.

I don't actually own any shoes by CN so I can't comment on their accessories range. But I've seen a few messenger bags that I REALLY liked.

I'll be really anxious to see CNC's men's range. Fingers crossed on the quality.

 

[macchiom]

Thanks Scott

And don’t worry, the sweater I was wearing is maroon and from last winter, as far as I remember.

Orochian

I can’t wait so see it either. As regards the quality I guess it’ll be equal to that of the other Ittierre produced lines (Exte, Versus, D&G, Just Cavalli, GF Ferre etc.)