"couture’s Health Check"

[Atelier]

First Formula One, now Haute Couture. The pinnacles of luxury are losing a few participants here and there. Some cost-cutting changes as well. I for one am a traditionalist and want to see both spectacles continue and once again grow. But seeing how it's been years since I attended a grand prix and I've never purchased HC, I suppose my lack-of-spending isn't helping either.

 

[Spacemiu]

wow

 

[ignitioned32]

Originally posted by mikeijames@May 13th, 2004 - 9:09 am
if the large scale shows are cut back, i think we would actually find that the couture is a quite lucrative, albeit small, industry...right now i think that there are a couple of houses that try to outdo each other with the most outlandish and most costly creations instead of focusing on the perfect pieces for their clients.

I know I would not want this 'cause we're not going to see the photos anymore, but this is a solution.

 

[versace]

Originally posted by seditionary+May 13th, 2004 - 8:44 am--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(seditionary @ May 13th, 2004 - 8:44 am)</div><div class='quotemain'> <!--QuoteBegin-versace@May 13th, 2004 - 12:19 pm
NOoooooooooooooooooooooooo... Versace Couture is unbelievable..

i agree.. its so unbeleiveable how it was ever named couture.... it is just the same trashy stuff donetella sends down the pap runways... [/b][/quote]
Oh come on now, stop being such a b*tch.. i dont go around criticising other peeps opinions.. just leave donatella alone.. shes an awesome designer - hence the amount of $$$ she has.. and even if she inherited some of it.. shes still made her millions!!

 

[ultramarine]

Originally posted by versace+May 13th, 2004 - 11:57 pm--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(versace @ May 13th, 2004 - 11:57 pm)</div><div class='quotemain'>

Originally posted by seditionary@May 13th, 2004 - 8:44 am
<!--QuoteBegin-versace

@May 13th, 2004 - 12:19 pm
NOoooooooooooooooooooooooo... Versace Couture is unbelievable..

i agree.. its so unbeleiveable how it was ever named couture.... it is just the same trashy stuff donetella sends down the pap runways...

Oh come on now, stop being such a b*tch.. i dont go around criticising other peeps opinions.. just leave donatella alone.. shes an awesome designer - hence the amount of $$$ she has.. and even if she inherited some of it.. shes still made her millions!![/b][/quote]
versace ... I'm really-really sorry ... but Donatella has lost her millions ... hence, the end of Versace couture

PS. I'm writing this in the kindest way possible, no sarchasm no other intentions ... *gives v a hug*

 

[brian]

Originally posted by seditionary@May 13th, 2004 - 12:19 pm
wish i was a mod with magical powers

...like Twiggy?

 

[Lena]

Originally posted by kimair@May 13th, 2004 - 6:47 pm
From WWD today:

Versace Ends Couture Shows to Focus on Ready-to-Wear Collections

By Alessandra Ilari

MILAN — In further restructuring moves, Versace is shifting its resources and focus from couture to its bourgeoning pre-collections and main ready-to-wear line.

The company said that, starting in July and for an undisclosed time period, it will no longer show during the couture seasons in Paris, but will sell to atelier clients from its Milan headquarters.
Versace said the decision will allow it to accelerate the development of its pre-collection business by allocating additional resources to the various departments: design, sourcing, production, merchandising and delivery.

“Our women’s business is coming off two strong back-to-back seasons,” said Daniele Ballestrazzi, Versace’s interim chief executive officer, in a statement. “Through the beginning of May, retail sales for the spring-summer 2004 main collection are up 28 percent, while wholesale revenues for fall-winter 2004 grew 22 percent over the previous year.”

Ballestrazzi added that Versace felt the need to reallocate resources to improve profitability and strengthen the company across the board.

To underscore the move, Ballestrazzi said that, starting with spring-summer 2005, the pre-collection and first line will be renamed Main Collection and Runway Collection, respectively, and will be conceived as consistent collections.

The Main and Runway collections are expected to generate 65 percent and 35 percent of seasonal revenues, respectively, Ballestrazzi noted. As part of the new strategy, an expanded women’s wear Main Collection will be shown in June alongside the men’s collection.

The moves also are expected to result in more timely production and delivery schedules, cost efficiencies and better sell-throughs for Versace’s wholesale partners and fully owned retail operations.

To further pump up the volume, Versace is upping its advertising budget by 20 percent for the second half of the year. While Versace declined to comment on the amount it spends overall on advertising, an industry source estimated the additional investment to be in the league of $1.2 million. Targeted markets include the Far East, Italy, the U.S. and Russia.

I think it's a good move for them. I never really liked the couture collections, and Donatella can keep making gowns for actresses, red carpet appearances, etc.

kimair, welcome to tFS

both the topic and the exact wwd artcicle were already posted here at FS
please check the forums before posting and avoid double posts

 

[Lena]

fear not, the future of couture is coming to Couture Week's rescue

ONE MORE FOR COUTURE: Versace and Ungaro might not be there, but Imitation of Christ is looking to return to the couture. IOC designer Tara Subkoff’s handlers sent around an e-mail this week noting the label’s plans to return to Paris in July, but hopefully not on her dime. “We are looking for partners and monetary sponsors,” the message read. “If you are interest [sic] we would love to set up a meeting for you to meet with Tara Subkoff to further discuss how we can collaborate.”

from wwd

 

[ignitioned32]

Thanks, Lena. Hope she does a good job.

 

[Lena]

you are welcome igni

....here comes the reply from monsieur Grumbach of the Chambre Syndicale

Anyone who thinks the Paris haute couture is in a terminal state of decline should have a chat with Didier Grumbach.

To hear Grumbach, president of the Chambre Syndicale, the governing body of French fashion, couture, the most exclusive form of fashion available anywhere, has a long life ahead of it.

Though disappointed by the decision of Emanuel Ungaro and the house Versace not to stage couture shows this July, Grumbach noted that between the official On calendar and unofficial Off listing, there will be nearly 40 shows in the upcoming Fall/Winter season. It runs from July 6 to 9.

"That shows that there is an interest, and that Paris continues to attract luxury designers to show couture here," he insisted.

"What is important is not who stops but that houses want to maintain the savoir faire of couture. We knew Ungaro was planning not to show. But we also noticed that Ungaro plans to keep its couture atelier. That means that they recognize that this is the center of creativity, their laboratory of ideas," argued Grumbach.

Ungaro informed the Chambre back in April 22 of its decision, but Grumbach stressed all the remaining couture members of the Chambre are determined to continue. "Versace hesitated Ð they only called me yesterday," he added.

"Dior and Chanel are completely resolved to go on with couture. One reason is that no couture house that stopped doing couture has ever gained anything from it. Nobody thinks it was a good idea with hindsight. Because couture gives a house unique visibility. It can make a brand timeless," he argued.

The Chambre president also waved aside recent comments by Pierre Berge, the long-time partner of Yves Saint Laurent, that couture would die away with Yves. YSL pulled out of couture when Saint Laurent retired three years ago.

"ItÕs crazy to say it wonÕt last. Anyone who says haute couture is dead is totally wrong!" said Grumbach, citing Jean-Paul Gaultier, Viktor & Rolf and Anne Valerie Hash as important new talents to have entered couture in recent years.

"WhatÕs important is that you have new couturiers. Up to 2001 it was impossible to enter couture. The rules were so strict that to open a collection would drive you bankrupt," said Grumbach, referring to former complicated rules about number of employees, models and salon size.

"We realized that and that is why we loosened regulations in 2001. Haute Couture has too moved with the times. Viktor & Rolf have switched to the ready-to-wear season. They should have stayed in couture; thatÕs where they belong. But other names are moving into couture each season," stressed Grumbach.

He noted that several new designers would debut in couture in July, thanks to being sponsored by established houses. Christian Dior President Sidney Toledano sponsored Stephanie Coudert to get on calendar this year, while Christian Lacroix sponsored On Aura Tout Vu.

from fwd

 

[seditionary]

Originally posted by blumarine+May 14th, 2004 - 6:21 am--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(blumarine @ May 14th, 2004 - 6:21 am)</div><div class='quotemain'>

Originally posted by versace@May 13th, 2004 - 11:57 pm

Originally posted by seditionary@May 13th, 2004 - 8:44 am
<!--QuoteBegin-versace

@May 13th, 2004 - 12:19 pm
NOoooooooooooooooooooooooo... Versace Couture is unbelievable..

i agree.. its so unbeleiveable how it was ever named couture.... it is just the same trashy stuff donetella sends down the pap runways...

Oh come on now, stop being such a b*tch.. i dont go around criticising other peeps opinions.. just leave donatella alone.. shes an awesome designer - hence the amount of $$$ she has.. and even if she inherited some of it.. shes still made her millions!!

versace ... I'm really-really sorry ... but Donatella has lost her millions ... hence, the end of Versace couture

PS. I'm writing this in the kindest way possible, no sarchasm no other intentions ... *gives v a hug* [/b][/quote]
meow... catfight showdown over now?... wasnt being bitchy, sorry if it seemed that way, i am not alone in my feelings against versace either...

 

[seditionary]

Originally posted by brian+May 14th, 2004 - 6:52 am--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(brian @ May 14th, 2004 - 6:52 am)</div><div class='quotemain'> <!--QuoteBegin-seditionary@May 13th, 2004 - 12:19 pm
wish i was a mod with magical powers

...like Twiggy? [/b][/quote]
what r u on?

 

[Lena]

Originally posted by seditionary@May 14th, 2004 - 10:34 am
i am not alone in my feelings against versace either...

you bet

 

[versace]

Okay okay... im sorry for calling you a b*tch.. but how has donatella PERSONALLY lost millions.. i dont believe that.. shes probably invested her money and keeps making money.. you mean the business has lost millions???? Why cant people accept Versace as another fashion designer?? People think it's all skanky.. sex sells.. but lets not go there shall we??? Plus u said no-hard feelings.. with the smile thats not the kind of smiley u post with that sort of comment

 

[Lena]

we need to keep the thread on topic please

Versace you are most welcome to revive one of our recent Versace topics
and continue the Donatella discussion there

 

[ultramarine]

Originally posted by versace@May 14th, 2004 - 5:05 am
Okay okay... im sorry for calling you a b*tch.. but how has donatella PERSONALLY lost millions.. i dont believe that.. shes probably invested her money and keeps making money.. you mean the business has lost millions???? Why cant people accept Versace as another fashion designer?? People think it's all skanky.. sex sells.. but lets not go there shall we??? Plus u said no-hard feelings.. with the smile thats not the kind of smiley u post with that sort of comment

A ) I say everything on the most loving/caring manner ...as I said earlier no pun intended.
Ever since Donatella took over ... Versace has lost millions .. there have been some choices made by Donatella that still have the consequences on the company (though I dont blame her for everything)
C ) The company IS in financial trouble .. you may see the quarterly reports and the news about selling 20% of the stock.
D) Her money? I think you may be talking about Allegra's ... -remember that Gianni left practically everything to her-
... and in a way, I agree that having Versace not presenting couture is quite a loss ... who's gonna fill her niche?

PS Sorry if I went a bit O/T. Fooooorgiveee meeee! Sanctuaaaary!

 

[versace]

Woah.. i've been told! Who do you want to forgive you?

 

[Lena]

Originally posted by blumarine@May 14th, 2004 - 11:15 am


PS Sorry if I went a bit O/T. Fooooorgiveee meeee! Sanctuaaaary!

forgived my child

BUT i need to do the search for the Versace topic myself now and take the related posts there

 

[versace]

versace posts hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm WRONG!

 

[ultramarine]

Forgived? by both? Super!
Awww! Tks!

PS Go ahead, Le ...my industrious little bee! Separate posts and Merge! MERGE!