November 30, 2011
Round 1. FIGHT!
From Middlewich (near Manchester) to New York, car mechanic to world  class fashion photographer, it should come as no shock that Craig McDean  has made a book entirely about sumo wrestling. Especially if you saw  his 1999 tome on drag racing.
Craig McDean is used to photographing beautiful women: Kate Moss, Tilda  Swinton, Amber Valletta (among his 23 i-D cover stars), Natalie Portman,  Megan Fox, Mila Kunis, Scarlett Johansson, Lindsey Wixson – you get the  point. So why does the image of a giant oily man interest him? The  photographs in this book were taken in 1993 when McDean was travelling  through Tokyo and was granted access to a Sumo training camp, capturing  the wrestlers training and mid-hustle in the dohyo (meaning ring). For  our generation at least, the image of a sumo wrestler is associated with  cartoon characters and illustrations of bellied, boobed Japanese men  with jet black buns wearing XXXXXL pants – a concept that seemed  hilarious as a child. But McDean’s images present the giants as they  should be seen: highly-respected fighters, who dedicate their lives to  playing a thousand year old sport, honouring the traditions and rituals  of their ancestors. McDean gives us a rare insight into a powerful,  ancient culture, sensationally preserved in modern Japanese society. He  is entranced by the things most people would never think to consider. Of  course he takes beautiful pictures, but what this project – and the ’99  drag racing project – shows is the breadth of his vision, which crosses  the world on bizarre but brilliant tangents.
i-D online asked the photographer and filmmaker what the photographs mean to him now and how this project came to be.
Hand-bound, 30 pages. Why did you want the book to be so delicate? I  wanted the book to be “delicate” because I always envisioned it to be  less of a traditional “coffee-table book” and more of an objet d’art. I  chose Aron Morel to publish the book as he creates very special and  individual books. He was able to source the Japanese binding and utilise  a French-fold technique on the pages which created the delicate nature  of the book.
Tell me about your interest in martial arts, and how this project came about?  I have been interested and have practiced martial arts from a young  age. Specifically, I studied the Jiu Jiutsu and Kendo forms. I became  very inspired and influenced by the Brazilian Gracie brothers, famous  Jiu Jitsu artists from Rio de Janeiro. The project came about as I was  living in Japan in 1993 and, through a friend, was able to gain access  to several different Sumo training camps. I became fascinated by their  discipline and would visit them at all hours of the morning to  photograph them in action.
The photos were taken in 1993, what kind of photographer were you then? I was an “inquisitive” photographer in 1993. I took photographs of anything and everything that caught my eye.
What prompted you to revisit the pictures? And how did you feel looking at them with a fresh eye? I  was prompted to revisit the pictures during a conversation with the  curator of the book, Emma Reeves. We were discussing ideas of possible  books we could do and through this I was inspired to revisit the  pictures. This in turn leant a fresh eye to the pictures as I had not  looked at the negatives in so long. When I looked at them again after  all these years I found many special elements that I hadn’t noticed when  I originally took them.
From sumo wrestling to drag racing, is it the subcultural element that interests you?  I am absolutely fascinated by subcultures. But more importantly, it is a  subculture’s relation to the individual countries in which they  originate which I love. For example, drag-racing is specific to America,  Sumo to Japan. Many overall cultural practices can be related to the  practices of drag-racing and Sumo.
Do you have any other unexpected hobbies? One hobby of mine is riding motor cross bikes in the desert.
What’s inspiring you today? I am inspired by passion.