It's disheartening to see talented designers like Alaia not receive the recognition they deserve, especially considering the immense influence they have had on the industry. The lack of support for black-owned brands and designers, despite the vocal advocacy for accountability in larger brands, highlights a concerning gap in the fashion community.
Alaia got the respect he deserved. I don’t know much on how he is viewed in America but here in France, he is up there with the greatest. Highly respected in his field and highly connected in political and artistic spaces.
I have, tbh, always been quite uncomfortable with the constant seek of approval from big brands. It’s Ok to start small and grow but what is really important is to nurture a relationship with clients.
Designers are supported by their clients and the problem regarding black American designers is that, there’s a very performative kind of support. It’s very social media driven. Ozwald Boateng made a name for himself and disrupted the Savile Row space. Imane Ayissi is a Couturier in Paris. Before them, Arabs designers made a name for themselves thanks to their clients. Azzedine Alaia build a private clientele of rich women before being an international star. They were supported by people BUYING!
Zuhair Murad and Elie Saab clients supported them. Elie Saab started showing in Italy from Beirut, before coming to Paris and working hard to be recognized as a household name, while overcoming the stigmas around Arab fashion.
When we talk about supporting a designer, people sometimes forget that, spending money on their clothes is the only answer. A lot of designers don’t get opportunities.
I buy Tongoro by Sarah Diouf quite regularly for example. I love her clothes and she is a French/Senegalese designer. I know my responsibility when I’m buying her stuff compared to when I’m buying Nicolas Ghesquiere. She is black, she is independent. She will never get the big job but she can make her brand her big job.
Martine Rose, Grace Bonner and others. There are a lot of talents. Even if they don’t get the big jobs, they have the real support that matters and not the performative one from IG.
I think it’s something people needs to learn. I’m sure Carly is a consultant somewhere but it’s a pity really.
However is see that someone like Laquan Smith is having that kind of real support Carly could have benefited from. He is keeping his operations really small (no precollections), nurturing his clientele, working with big industry names who elevates his brand. He will not get a big job probably. But it doesn’t matter because he can be his big job.
