Dilara Findikoglu F/W 2024.25 London

i'll put it out there: she is not intelligent, clever, nor skilled enough to create an original or refreshing collection challenging the status quo or conservative conventions on femininity and masculinity. it's too advance for her.

I don't even believe it's her intention. To me, her shows are all about seeking attention in the most desperate way, because everything feels like a really bad clickbait. My guess is that her intention is to get famous through these clothes, not to convey any sort of message. That may be also confirmed by the allegations about the working environment at the brand, some time ago it was rather a popular topic in social media. At the end of the day, she is not that different from her American counterpart AKA the fashion equivalent of Trump.
 
"Even in times as precarious as these, one thing remains certain: a world built by the hands of men is destined for destruction by those very hands. I don't need to prove that to you. Turn on your television, scroll on your phone, and see for yourself the consequences of a reality constructed to bring a cruel patriarchal agenda to life. Architecture, politics, healthcare - even the most existentially essential infrastructures vindicate heteropatriarchal desires. If the only guaranteed outcomes of a collective existence conditioned by masculine power are violence, destruction and limitation, is that something that any of us should wish for?

This is a manifesto for a world order born of an unrelenting vortex of femme energy; a way of being and feeling that transcends the parochial strictures of conventional masculinity. For Autumn/Winter 2024, we bring a new world to life through a mass ritual, centring values of tenderness, sumptuousness and vulnerability. We unpick, interrogate and dispel the invented notions of borders, gender roles and time that today's patriarchy holds so dear. What we manifest here is a world created in the image of the divine feminine; an imagining of the world that I know can put ours to right."


those are the shownotes. kill me right the f*ck now. we're so doomed
oookay. between this and the show notes: where do we begin?

i'll put it out there: she is not intelligent, clever, nor skilled enough to create an original or refreshing collection challenging the status quo or conservative conventions on femininity and masculinity. it's too advance for her.

she is a proud member of the circle jerk social media echo chamber throwing out lofty, verbose word-vomit and proselytizing about feminism and inequality without really understanding what these ideologies mean in a structural, material sense. she has no sense of real history, only a superfluous cherry-picked, decontextualized awareness of such things.

people like her put on such a lame show, expounding on paragons they themselves fail to live up to and cannot articulate through their chosen art form. she simply can't do it. they have lost themselves in the swirling galliano-mcqueen-westwood myopia so much they don't know which way is up. it's opposite day everyday for these lost folks. it's perpetuating a lie until it becomes true, but there is still no truth, no authenticity in what they do or say. just a mimicry and a cry for help. there is no story, no anchor for this collection giving it substance and a purpose beyond looking like burn pile worthy rejects for that hulu harlot tv show about 18th century british prostitutes. (shoutout to samatha morton, she was great in it)

destroy the moodboard and start afresh. completely tabula rasa. her own culture has a wealth of inspiration - start there. lowkey pains me to say this but look at ulyana sergeenko on how to embrace culture in a tasteful sense. her women know themselves, exhibiting a sense of power without an over-reliance on sex to do so. otherwise, continue believing your full potential is this the mid-tier, back alley, drunk, rode-hard-put-away-wet dominatrix mess.
omg y'all would HATE the clothing i make haha

one of my worst fears as an artist is being better at writing about the art than making the art, these shownotes are better than the show? now reading this i understand why she wanted to deconstruct the suit as a masculine symbol, it just fell flat for me. i am starting to think that trying to express things about gender through clothing is a mistake because ultimately clothing doesn't define gender. feminine might be more of an attitude, like she says "tenderness, sumptuousness, vulnerability", but i don't see these traits in this show. this show is actually pretty hard to me. interesting.....

then again these shownotes and your comments actually make us beg the question, "what would real feminist fashion look like?". i think feminist fashion would start at the structure of the company making it, the sourcing of the materials, the sewing circle that produced it and so forth. feminist fashion would be materially, structurally different than the wasteful and logistical industry that fashion is today. i am thinking of something like femail forever, a brand that started as two designers that shipped clothing back and forth and added found objects and beloved tokens to it one by one, the process and the final object completely unintelligible to money hungry, logistics crazed fashion moguls and their ilk.

in conclusion, she may be expounding beyond what the show was capable of expressing but i am glad she's thinking about these things and that they inform her practice whether or not they show up in the final product. they're important ideas

okay, i'm going to go tabula rasa myself and start my day afresh loll bye bye x
 
some real idiots on the panel here. looking at rian and maliha - mindless sycophants.

 
What kids think being subversive and edgy is like. I like the sl*tty witch theme, but this is terrible.
When I first noticed her several years ago, I thought there was potential there and plenty of room to grow. To see that she actually managed to get worse is just sad. This looks desperate.
 
So for her being a feminist literally means copying ideas from others...
 
i find it hilarious how she babbles constantly about being a proud turkish designer and how she's massively inspired by turkish culture but like sis... all your clothes are inspired by historical french/english bourgeois costume lol
exactly and this is the saddest part, bc turkish traditional clothes are so beautiful, colourful and rich in history, she could easily blend her cultural heritage with idk late 18th century france and actually make a relevant comment on gender, class, orientalism and etc. reading the show notes the ineffectivess of this is even more apparent, its pure verbiage to distract the audience from the fact that her clothes are pastiches, silly ludic imitations that do not transform in any way her sources of inspiration. its quite irritating bc she could easily create conceptual bridges between her heritage and her sensibilities, but shes much more interested in being this caricature of a tortured artist lol
 
omg y'all would HATE the clothing i make haha

one of my worst fears as an artist is being better at writing about the art than making the art, these shownotes are better than the show? now reading this i understand why she wanted to deconstruct the suit as a masculine symbol, it just fell flat for me. i am starting to think that trying to express things about gender through clothing is a mistake because ultimately clothing doesn't define gender. feminine might be more of an attitude, like she says "tenderness, sumptuousness, vulnerability", but i don't see these traits in this show. this show is actually pretty hard to me. interesting.....

then again these shownotes and your comments actually make us beg the question, "what would real feminist fashion look like?". i think feminist fashion would start at the structure of the company making it, the sourcing of the materials, the sewing circle that produced it and so forth. feminist fashion would be materially, structurally different than the wasteful and logistical industry that fashion is today. i am thinking of something like femail forever, a brand that started as two designers that shipped clothing back and forth and added found objects and beloved tokens to it one by one, the process and the final object completely unintelligible to money hungry, logistics crazed fashion moguls and their ilk.

in conclusion, she may be expounding beyond what the show was capable of expressing but i am glad she's thinking about these things and that they inform her practice whether or not they show up in the final product. they're important ideas

okay, i'm going to go tabula rasa myself and start my day afresh loll bye bye x

it is not impossible to create provoking, intelligent clothes. dilara's issue, as @perhydrol succinctly put it: she makes clickbait trash for attention. her livelihood is shock factor. that's not a way to live nor create art that has substance, longevity, meaning, and an inspirational message aka she's shallow. yes, the idea are important, but they're understood in such a vapid and vain manner. on the other hand and on the other side of the spectrum, what one should also avoid is MGC's shallow feminist dior. a catchphrase printed on a t-shirt, revolutionary imagery in the background of a runway, a corset presented in three ways is not intelligent or a stance again misogyny and androcentric western culture. it just isn't.

you get it - it's all about the historical, systemic, and industrial production of fashion. how is production impacting all shareholders, employees, workmanship, audiences, buyers, etc.? it's more than putting a bra on a man or pants on a woman. specifically in this context, it's the lack of story and message. you have to start with your purpose for creating fashion: it is for fame or for the passion of the craft? are you a student of it or a self-serving mercenary?

in keeping it at the showmanship level, look at hussein chalayan's earlier work, particularly his fw 2000 show. he typically creates a story rooted in his culture, ethnicity, and upbringing or identity. for that show it was personal with a message, one showing deference, awe, and appreciation for a woman's resourcefulness, woman as the nucleus of a family, and women's joy and beauty (albeit through his eyes). his clothes have a strong message, are fashion-forward, and present a unique worldview complimentary to the ways galliano and mcqueen explored similar themes in their presentations. all three of them have a sense of brilliance when it comes to their themes, but it's their strengths in storytelling, technique, and genuinely understanding a woman's body and perspective setting them heads and tails above the rest.

good luck on your endeavor! you have a good foundation to work from.
 
"Even in times as precarious as these, one thing remains certain: a world built by the hands of men is destined for destruction by those very hands. I don't need to prove that to you. Turn on your television, scroll on your phone, and see for yourself the consequences of a reality constructed to bring a cruel patriarchal agenda to life. Architecture, politics, healthcare - even the most existentially essential infrastructures vindicate heteropatriarchal desires. If the only guaranteed outcomes of a collective existence conditioned by masculine power are violence, destruction and limitation, is that something that any of us should wish for?

This is a manifesto for a world order born of an unrelenting vortex of femme energy; a way of being and feeling that transcends the parochial strictures of conventional masculinity. For Autumn/Winter 2024, we bring a new world to life through a mass ritual, centring values of tenderness, sumptuousness and vulnerability. We unpick, interrogate and dispel the invented notions of borders, gender roles and time that today's patriarchy holds so dear. What we manifest here is a world created in the image of the divine feminine; an imagining of the world that I know can put ours to right."
Good heavens. Somebody drop her off at a TikTok feminist spoken-word gig. Dripping with smugness and self-righteousness.

No wonder why the collection is just one big grandstanding circle-jerk.
 
which looks would you say are reminiscent of mcqueen, galliano and westwood? if you could post pictures, too, that'd be great.
 
Well, looks 1, 2, and 4 are reminiscent of Galliano's Margiela s/s 2024 rtw. Then, look 27 is Galliano from Temu, it's trying very hard to achieve the same effect as his romantic sheer dressing. Look 35 is an insanely ugly cousin of McQueen's f/w 09, it was look 44 to be exact. Looks 7 and 28 are something Westwood would have done on a bad day. And it's just the start, the deeper you dig, the more you can see all the better ideas come from someone else.

But in the end, it's Dilara (and her sticky hands, and probably her vase) who's going to cancel herself. BTW this post showcases her working methodology, i.e. to take something and make it worse.
 
^ Shameful and embarrassing. Hope they do the decent thing and apologise and reprimand the team member who had this ‘original’ idea..

Kind of immune to her collections but not hating the way she gets men so riled up hah
 

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