Dilara Findikoglu F/W 2025.26 London

Many references but it doesn't feel like plagiarism.
It is a more interesting way to work with lingerie than the too literal Balenciaga ss25.
I was impressed by the second look. Lovely crazy sea-shell top.
I spent a couple of minutes trying to find out if the trousers were in real python (by how the light reflects on it, it looks real).
And then, towards the end, came the Margiela hair jacket with the nude trousers, this time undoubtedly in real python.
Nice.
 
I don't really see Theyskens, love him but he did not invent goth or corsets.

Of course he did not invent gothic style...but you can tell Theyskens was in Dilara´s mind (and moodboard as well) :

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The construction is an improvement from her previous collections, and I appreciate she's trying to do something that requires some innovation and irreverence rather than taking the easy way out and being another quiet luxury Pheobe clone, however I think a continuing problem with her is her interpretations of her inspirations are waaay too literal.

The Birth of Venus inspired you, so you send one model down wrapped in nothing but a red rapunzel wig, and half the collection is seashells superglued onto some lingerie...? That's a child's level of interpretation.

I like some of the jeans however.
 
The construction is an improvement from her previous collections, and I appreciate she's trying to do something that requires some innovation and irreverence rather than taking the easy way out and being another quiet luxury Pheobe clone, however I think a continuing problem with her is her interpretations of her inspirations are waaay too literal.

The Birth of Venus inspired you, so you send one model down wrapped in nothing but a red rapunzel wig, and half the collection is seashells superglued onto some lingerie...? That's a child's level of interpretation.

I like some of the jeans however.
Upon a second look, I still like most of it, such as the leather, but it's true that her glue gun shells and safety pin dress (cough Galliano) feel very DIY and don't justify the insane amount of hype on Instagram.
 

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