Dior Men S/S 2025 Paris

Kim Jones is the prime example of creative regress, he evolved from a great menswear designer for LV to this bucket hat twink lack of proportions merchandise creative he is now. Waste of resources and people’s time. Take away from him any possibility of collab with artists and he will dissolve into thin air.
 
I don't quite understand why Delphine keeps him around? Is Dior homme performing so well in sales that she simply doesn't care? Or the designers she wants are unavailable/unwilling? Someone who knows her needs to spill the tea because this was mediocre, a fashion school student can do better. She's usually caught making some slightly bemused face at Loewe shows, this was me watching this whole thing:

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I think it’s time for men to go back to more fitted suits. Those oversized of suits with big pants looks ridiculous on grown man trying to be fashionable.
I like the coats for myself. I wonder how many men are really buying into KJ’s runway propositions.

I don't quite understand why Delphine keeps him around? Is Dior homme performing so well in sales that she simply doesn't care? Or the designers she wants are unavailable/unwilling? Someone who knows her needs to spill the tea because this was mediocre, a fashion school student can do better. She's usually caught making some slightly bemused face at Loewe shows, this was me watching this whole thing:

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They were appointed as CD before she became the CEO of Dior, even if she was involved in MGC joining the house.

After, it’s all a matter of contracts. If KJ was hired for 5 years, he probably renewed it last year and if it was 3 years, it’s up for renewal this year. For MGC, it’s probably next year.
 
Why designers these days are afraid to make clothes for men, to create clothes to make you look good and confident ?

I hate the casting : models with no charisma, twink looking and so bland.

The set is atrocious. Honestly I miss Riccardo and his hyper sexualised POV.
 
I only like 3 coats, the rest is just there. Like most of KJ collections, you look at it, there are a few nice pieces, and you move on and you forget about it.
And his random collaborations that make no sense with Dior. Stone Island, seriously. ☠️

The set is atrocious. Honestly I miss Riccardo and his hyper sexualised POV

Can you imagine the Dior archive through the lens of Riccardo? I don't know if handling the men and women is too much for him or not but why not give him the whole house? It’s definitely more exciting than the current state of the brand. I miss his couture the most.
 
last year show in egypt was so inspiring this is so cheap is the same designer Kim Jones or this is desgined by Maria Grazia
 
The animal buttons are infantile, even worse than the hats. In fact, all of the animal graphics look like kindergarten scrawlings -- I don't even want to know that this is from some famous artist because it's hideous.

I kind of like the big chonky boots Kim is wearing himself, but I didn't notice them on a model. (The opposite of Pharrell's bow at LV this season -- his patchwork snakeskin/monogram bomber was possibly the ugliest thing that went down the runway.)

The contrast hoods with trailing self-fabric drawstrings down the front look like cheaply done copies of ideas from early Sialleli-era Lanvin; and I didn't even like them then, but at least those looked luxe:

Lanvin Fall 2019 tweed runway jacket with detachable leather hood:
Lanvin 2019 Winter runway jacket with leather hood.jpg
[from Ssense]

Lanvin Spring 2020 runway overcoat with cotton-poplin drawstring hood:
Lanvin 2020 Spring runway overcoat cotton-poplin hood.jpg
 
When you ask AI to make a collection based on most forgettable looks from 2012, from the random and most mediocre NYC and Milan pre-collections. You get Kim Jones for Dior Homme.
 
Nothing he does ever looks sophisticated or chic, even though in some cases the pieces are crafted by hand in the Haute Couture atelier and / or heavily embroidered. It's bizarre.

I suspect the pressure to appeal and sell to Gen Z is ruining Jones' ability to make beautiful, simple clothes that honor the legacy of Dior. By the time the merchandisers are done with putting pressure on the team to add bags and jewellery and hats and other knick knacks, there is little consideration left for the clothes.

The irony is that most of this, whilst being designed with a very young consumer in mind, probably won't be purchased by them due to a) it not being particularly "cool" and b) being far too expensive and out of reach.

Add to that, the kind of people that Dior Men these days is not exactly the kind of "club" any kind of young or interesting people would want to be associated with anyway, with all due respect.
 
I can see quite a few pieces inspired by Chinese culture and subtle references to 'peace'.
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Traditional Chinese painting with a pigeon(?)
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Blue and white porcelain
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An updated version of the Chinese tunic suit
So I would not say he is lazy per se, but all these references feel very random. If you'd do a Chinese-inspired theme, I'd get it.
The peak of his design for me still remains with the season he introduced the Bar Jacket into menswear, I hope he would do some culturally inspired focused collection without the fear of being cancelled.
 
The soundtrack of the show was repetitive and uninspiring, the set I could've done without. But, sorry y'all - I liked the hats. haha And also was into the footwear. Like most runway collections, think this was more about pieces not full looks. Boots and hats were cute. But could it be better? Of course.
 

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