Languid, not loose, is how Donna Karan described her pre-fall collection. Natural colors like moon, shadow, and winter haze--neutral and shadow tones largely based on ecology and global warming, the designer said--dominated for pre-fall, which marked a return to relaxed silhouettes. "It's very Copenhagen," said Karan of the collection's Rembrandt-cum-Northern European quality. "It was about embracing cities not as urban as New York or London but where they still wear exciting fashions. Nothing is ever matched." Lightweight wools, washed silk charmeuse, Mongolian lamb, washed moleskin pants, and felted shearling were the favored fabrics for the collection, which boasted a fluidity to them--including the poetic musketeer blouses and the slim-cut pants--and while layered, gently skimmed the waist. Après-ski was a recurring theme for Karan as well. A Mongolian lamb coat with fur sequins was a standout, as was an evening gown featuring a cascade of mossy beads and relaxed elegance. "The line has a linear quality to it," said Karan, "infused with an organic feel that I always bring to every collection."
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