Dries Van Noten - Designer

[LadyJunon]

Dries has been and will always be such an inspiration! So glad he didn’t lose himself when he sold a majority stake to Puig. I’m excited for his ventures in beauty! I hope it’ll be a success. Thanks for sharing @LadyJunon x

I think it helps that Puig seems to have a realistic approach to fashion business (unlike Kering), knowing that the speciality is beauty and perfumes. Outside of the mess that is Nina Ricci, all of the fashion companies seem to be doing consistently well and there hasn't been a major change of creative directors in five years.

 

[nonfatgoddess]

I think it helps that Puig seems to have a realistic approach to fashion business (unlike Kering), knowing that the speciality is beauty and perfumes. Outside of the mess that is Nina Ricci, all of the fashion companies seem to be doing consistently well and there hasn't been a major change of creative directors in five years.

Yes, and I also noticed that they’re really smart and careful compared to their competitors in terms of acquisitions and seem to have built strong relationships with their subsidiaries by seeing eye to eye with the creative directors and their vision (but I do think Nina Ricci is an exception for now lol). It’s key to their stability considering that they’re still relatively smaller compared to companies like LVMH or Kering

 

[Lola701]

I think it helps that Puig seems to have a realistic approach to fashion business (unlike Kering), knowing that the speciality is beauty and perfumes. Outside of the mess that is Nina Ricci, all of the fashion companies seem to be doing consistently well and there hasn't been a major change of creative directors in five years.

Do they have a realistic approach to fashion or an expertise in beauty that allows them to not be too involved on fashion?
Because there’s a real lack of strategy for the fashion side. The good thing is that it allows more imput from the designers. Gaultier was able to find a model that was working for the relevance and the survival of his brand. The success of Dossena has put Paco Rabanne in the club of brands that matters. Carolina Herrera is Carolina Herrera I guess.

What is healthy is that it’s a fairly small group of many decent sized maisons and interesting beauty licences like Louboutin.

I don’t know if there’s an ideal group because some things are collateral damages at the end of the day.

Richemont is a bit like Puig. Their business is mainly watches and jewellery. Fashion is not a strong focus so in a way, the prestige of their fashion brands has been preserved. Sometimes, preserved may looks like abandoned. I think Dunhill should be more important as an brand in menswear. Delvaux should be bigger. Az Factory is a mystery in terms of strategy…
They have a lot of interesting brands that are a bit under exploited. Moynat for example is more desirable than Delvaux

If you look at Renzo Rosso’s OTB, yes we can applaud the rather success and creative integrity of Margiela, Jil Sander and Marni…Even if it did came with a bit of controversy. Viktor and Rolf remains a mystery supported by a very successful fragrances empire.

LVMH and Kering have their pros and cons and some houses are better managed than others. Their niches brands are particularly well preserved and some brands are a total mess.

 

[bc collector]

yes we can applaud the rather success and creative integrity of Margiela, Jil Sander and Marni…

Integrity? Excuuuse me?

 

[Lola701]

Integrity? Excuuuse me?

I mean, Margiela is not really Margiela and Marni is not really Marni but at least it’s creative…hence my use of the word « rather ».

 

[bc collector]

I mean, Margiela is not really Margiela and Marni is not really Marni

And Jil Sander is not really Jil Sander. At all.

 

[Lola701]

And Jil Sander is not really Jil Sander. At all.

Exactly. Nothing is really what it should be or used to be but at least, the clothes are well made and there’s a sort of illusion of creativity.

 

[perhydrol]

 

[Norden]

I will miss him!

 

[Salvatore]

Interesting he didn't wait until the women's show ! Oh well, Dries had me in a chokehold for some time and I wish him and the company the best.

 

[MulletProof]

'a search for a successor'.... here we go 😑

 

[plentyofhorns]

I would be shocked if this brand is financially healthy, and it’s only going to get worse with someone else at the helm.

 

[Mathewthew]

That's pretty sad, I love his stuffs or maybe we will go to another brand instead (Joking !!!!!!)

 

[mrbelgravia]

I would be shocked if this brand is financially healthy, and it’s only going to get worse with someone else at the helm.

Ditto. Strong and consistent creative direction as well as editorial acclaim but little commercial endorsement from celebrities and *cringe* influencers. It should ordinarily be should to shoulder with Marni recognition and sales wise. Hope the next creative director can crack this.

 

[NoInvite]

I have always admired how what he shows on the runway translate directly into the racks. It's just so simple and ready to wear but elevated enough to want every season. Reasonably priced so even at end of season sales making it even more desirable. So commercially I believe DVN is at the right scale of business that they want to be. And beauty line has potential.

Him as a person will always be missed for sure, and him as a designer will left a void for his customers because the brand is just unique. Wonder how the company will be after that

 

[Lola701]

Sad but expected news…
From the moment he decided to sell his brand to Puig, it was expected.
He has done a fabulous job and created a fabulous brand.
My husband will probably be more sad than me but it’s a testament to Dries. He has created a relationship with his clients, an atmosphere through his stores, that is quite rare in fashion today.
He has build an important house while remaining quite humble in the whole operation.

I will cherish my Dries pieces even more now.

I would be shocked if this brand is financially healthy, and it’s only going to get worse with someone else at the helm.

When the brand was sold, it had under 100M in revenues and Puig reported that it was it fastest growing niche brand in the 2023 reports.
I wouldn’t be surprised to learn that they wants to keep the momentum.

The house will change. Marketing will probably more involved. I hope they won’t turn Dries into Margiela or Marni (aka a luxury brand).
I don’t think every fashion brands needs to be 500 Millions.

And he has a minority stake so I hope his voice will still matter.

 

[LadyJunon]

 

[LadyJunon]

On a more serious note, it's sad to see him go and it's even sadder that we'll never get another womenswear show from him. I hope that he, at least, gave a rough framework for the Women's SS25 show. I'm a bit worried for the future of the brand, but as long as Puig doesn't pull a "Risso at Marni", we should be okay.

 

[perhydrol]

And he has a minority stake so I hope his voice will still matter.

Apparently, he will have the role of a Chief Creative Officer at the house so he's not letting go completely. I hope that also means he'll be involved in the process of looking for his replacement because we don't need another LdSS for Ann Demeulemeester kind of disaster.

 

[lhhbl]

So sad!