Emilio Pucci Pre-Fall 2012

[Stereo_Flo]

(Click for HQ!)

-style​

 

[Stereo_Flo]

(Click for HQ!)

-style​

 

[Stereo_Flo]

(Click for HQ!)

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[Stereo_Flo]

(Click for HQ!)

-style​

 

[Psylocke]

The setting is pretty cool. Doesn't change anything about the fact that this is a pretty awful collection, though. I only like the plum lace dress in post #3 and the wine colored velvet blazer in post #4. Pucci needs a breath of fresh air, I feel like every collection Peter Dundas has designed for Pucci looks the same.

 

[Street_a_Licious]

its like... a Gucci by Frida collection, maybe slightly improved...

 

[mackos]

I don't really care about it, but the no. 4 coat with huge fur collar is beyond gorgeous

 

[liberty33r1b]

^that's my fav piece too, a real standout and I love that color. the rest is rather disappointing, mostly it looks just unflattering and I hate so many of the prints....

 

[Fatalefashion]

What hell? ETRO?

 

[TaylorBinque]

Oh lordy, last season and this one, I won't expect a decent collection from Pucci. But please, exceed my expectations.

 

[christian zh]

I can't breathe.

 

[Stereo_Flo]

By Tim Blanks​

Peter Dundas gives good mood board. His latest was a collage of glam-rock icons: Ziggy Stardust, Marc Bolan, Brian Eno, Bowie, and Deneuve together at the time they were playing moviedom's most fabulous vampires in The Hunger, which just happens to be Dundas' favorite film. Glam's vampish allure inspired Pucci's pre-fall collection with its sparkle, its sheen, and its saturated nocturnal colors, but it was equally glam's cool boy-girl thing that was reflected in the lean tailoring.

"It's a step away from the bohemian," Dundas said. "I wanted something more bourgeois, grown-up, urban. We're bringing Pucci to the city." Literally, in fact, with the opening of a Manhattan flagship later this year. So Pucci's tawny hippie goddess was transformed into a chic androgyne in her cropped jacket and cigarette-leg pants. "But with an untamed past," Dundas added. Hence the fishnet stockings and patent T-bars under those pants. Perish the thought that bourgeois means boring in Dundas' revision of the Pucci woman.

With this collection, he actually went further than ever before in staking his claim to Pucci's future. Emilio himself never used lace, but Dundas has made guipure into a new house signature. Here, it was reinterpreted as a print, in pants and a top, say, with a décolleté of real lace. Then, in a master stroke of reverse thinking, a classic Pucci print was recreated in Swarovski-sprinkled guipure.

Emilio never used lamé either, but it was another staple of Pucci's pre-fall. "It's a nice way to do Pucci prints," said Dundas of a full-skirted look that had something of a Russian folk feel about it. "Tsarina," he called the print, and in a simple floor-length lamé T-shirt dress, it looked absolutely Oscar-worthy. The folkloric feel carried over into the Hussar frog fastenings on velvet and tweed jackets and the sweater dress with the dense patterning of a Berber tapestry. When that dress turned, it was backless. That's the kind of glam that will always rock.

-style​

by Sarah Mower
​

The static, front-on pictures of a conventional lookbook don’t do Peter Dundas’ clothes justice. What they need is a girl in movement, skirt fluttering on a Mediterranean breeze at sunset or performing some slinky turn on a dance floor. Then, you’d get a look at what he does from all angles, see the glint-y way a printed, semi-transparent lamé catches the light, or clock the sly, sexy way an apparently covered-up lace dress reveals a triangle of bare back when it walks away.

Emilio Pucci used to be almost solely associated with swirly multicolored print—and it’s there in the continuation of spring’s gypsy skirt or the “Tsarina” print on a floor-length T-shirt dress. But Dundas is a designer who’s developed the confidence to add his own associations and talents to the Italian brand. In pre-fall, he says, it’s a touch of glam rock cut in with a lot of respect for Parisian bourgeois taste. The latter gives him license to continue with the tailoring which Dundas-era Pucci followers are increasingly addicted to. “Jackets and tailoring in solid colors have become more and more important,” Dundas remarks. “Who doesn’t want a mean jacket to put on for day?” In pre-fall, they can come in jeweled “Berber” embroidery or suede with chunky leather “Hussar” fastenings, but either (and all) way, the slim, glove-like fit makes them as easy and versatile to wear as cardigans. In other words, under Dundas’ guidance Emilio Pucci is far more than a beachy resort label now. It’s somewhere a smart girl could find an unidentifiable, early fall houndstooth coat to wear over cigarette pants. And even when it comes to evening, Dundas is also thinking in a more nuanced way. In addition to the sex-bomb dresses he does so well, one of the looks, which ultimately could prove almost annoyingly chic when walking into a room, is a “mallard” green silk lace-printed blouse with a black lace inset neckline, worn with matching skinny pants. It reads as a tuxedo look—especially with the masculine tailored black coat Dundas slung over the shoulder. It’s a perfect articulation of the glam-bourgeois merge he set out to nail.

-vogue​

 

[abadonna]

i loved his ss12 collection, but this even better!

 

[Alexei]

Love it all!

 

[Ives927]

Etro x YSL x Gucci = Pucci!

 

[Crying Diamonds]

The wearability and the fact that it's approaching on good-taste makes it feel as if it's not by Dundas.
That fourth-look fur collar coat is even sort of Bouchra Jarrar.. aka about a trillion miles from Dundas' Pucci.

 

[Prairie]

Like coats and jackets, but a big NO for all those printed dresses.

 

[Andymoon]

^ Exactly.

 

[neonsprinkles]

There's something a bit too strict about this collection. Peter's work for Pucci always had that slightly messy, relaxed with a slightly smoldering feel- which worked so well. The symmetrical printed on a tight silhouette look is getting a bit too repetitive the last few seasons : /....