Erdem S/S 2023 London

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[Lola701]

I don’t normally care for Erdem but I really like this collection. I get a very Sarah Burton for McQueen and Antonio Marras vibe from this, maybe more stripped down but I like it.

Looks 15 and 17 and probably the best looks I’ve seen since in the entire season so far.
There’s something interesting in the fabric of that coat, it’s like it’s « cloqué ». So great! Look 17 is really really good!

 

[WAVES]

usually Erdem is one of my favourites of LFW.
I feel like this collection has hits and misses.
the oversized white coat is great and so are the lace dresses. don’t really see the point of all that tulle as it feels like it’s not necessary at all for the garments.

 

[Frederic01]

ERDEM

 

[Frederic01]

So exquisite. I quite like this especially since it is not trying so hard "revolutionary" or "avant-garde" or "cool" like most of London fashion week.

On a side note, the tailoring is quite beautiful in this collection. Erdem does a better bar jacket than Maria Grazia Chiuri, which is perplexing to me...

 

[Cocteau Stone]

Very, very current Sarah Burton in many ways, but I like it so much more over here than at McQueen.

Not my kind of thing entirely, but Erdem knows its niche in LFW and knows how to deal with it even if pieces don't fully work. What doesn't work though has means to work in later collections if they put a little more focus into it.

 

[YohjiAddict]

The three last looks remind me of Galliano’s last couture collection for Dior in which he superimposed sheer fabric over the clothes to create tone gradations. The last dress looks like it’s been turned inside out too.

Look 18 is vaguely Yohji-esque with how it deconstructs a very feminine and classic silhouette, here by revealing the petticoat tied to the waist and the use of contrast stitching to delineate the hem and the bustier.

There are other interesting details, like the brocade that seems to be coming apart forming a frayed surface. Look 27 looks like it’s built out of embroidery samples. In such instances he seems to emulate Margiela or the more recent Theyskens collections.

As evidenced by my comparisons, it’s not the most original show but it makes good use of its references and offers quite a few intriguing blends between classic and avant-grade fashion.

 

[Not Plain Jane]

those early shirting looks are pretty fabulous; i like the collection overall