Fashion East S/S 2023 London

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[Deleted member 119799]

what the hell

 

[jeanclaude]

London and NY are getting more and more similar in aesthetic. Everything looks as trashy as possible.

 

[YohjiAddict]

I swear Phoebe would do humanity a favor by proposing and popularizing a style of Chic monastic austerity, only that could clean this trash fest!

 

[Cocteau Stone]

There was a third collection from Standing Ground as part of the show that isn’t posted and that actually isn’t half bad. Bit repetitive, somewhat monastic and very different to these two.

I always feel that Fashion East always requires a certain look to the collections/designers which makes each showing look like the last. I mean the first one here looks like Nensi Dojoka and the second like some odd Barrgan meets Charles Jeffrey thing. Feels less like they’re showcasing new talent and more about them maintaining a look.

 

[LadyJunon]

Standing Ground's Collection:

 

[LadyJunon]

I always feel that Fashion East always requires a certain look to the collections/designers which makes each showing look like the last. I mean the first one here looks like Nensi Dojoka and the second like some odd Barrgan meets Charles Jeffrey thing. Feels less like they’re showcasing new talent and more about them maintaining a look.

Chances are they want the look of a "progressive artsy student" that doesn't actually truly challenge the aesthetical norms of clothing and the industry lives for that. I have a feeling that why Standing Ground's collection wasn't part of the show, since they don't fit that cool trendy image.

 

[bc collector]

Standing Ground was only a presentation, it did not show on the catwalk along the other two - and that was probably a good thing.
The lady trying to pull a Nensi Dojaka with obese models - please, please, allow me to skip the pleasantries and call things like they are - was pathetic, and I am very surprised that Lulu Kennedy, who first supported Dojaka, also selected her copycat. The offer this year must have been abysmal, if this was the best.
The guy doing Jamaican punk rags is a goner, just another layer on an already insufferably pretentious pile of forgettable stuff.
Michael Stewart was the diamond in the rough of this season of FE. Probably also because of the contrast with the other two, I loved his offering, concise, calm but with a point of view. There is something very recognisable about his clothes, and very at odds with the trite, I'm-more-transgressive-than-thou spectacle that LFW has become.

 

[LadyJunon]

Standing Ground was only a presentation, it did not show on the catwalk along the other two - and that was probably a good thing.
The lady trying to pull a Nensi Dojaka with obese models - please, please, allow me to skip the pleasantries and call things like they are - was pathetic, and I am very surprised that Lulu Kennedy, who first supported Dojaka, also selected her copycat. The offer this year must have been abysmal, if this was the best.
The guy doing Jamaican punk rags is a goner, just another layer on an already insufferably pretentious pile of forgettable stuff.
Michael Stewart was the diamond in the rough of this season of FE. Probably also because of the contrast with the other two, I loved his offering, concise, calm but with a point of view. There is something very recognisable about his clothes, and very at odds with the trite, I'm-more-transgressive-than-thou spectacle that LFW has become.

The irony in this is that Steward's offering is somehow more sincerely transgressive in its simplicity alone, whereas most of London's young designers go straight towards the other extreme. Vitto is "Fat Nensi" and Alleyne is the gross lovechild of Marni, Eckhaus Katya and that one Pyer Moss collection.