"fashion Messiahs"

[ignitioned32]

Nicolas Ghesquiere, Miguel Adrover, etc. What do you think made them so called "fashion messiahs"? Hype or is it their work? Who else aside from these 2 in history became called such? and did they live up to thier name?

Adrover Spring 2001, Balenciaga Fall 2002

 

[faust]

It's certainly a matter of taste, but I'd say it's hype. Ever since conglomerates took over, 90% of what I see is hype. Bottom line for me is the clothes. Bottom line is when I walk into stores and look at what the designers have made and judge by it. No magazines, no advertising, no PR tricks - just clothes. I get really angry sometimes when I look at bland GARBAGE that designers like Marc Jacobs produce and than on all corners, be it editors, or celebrities, or other pop-culture vehicles, "he's so talented, he's the best". I feel like the little boy in Andersen's (was it?) tale "The Naked King".

I am certainly glad that I'm not alone out there, because I see strong independent houses such as Ann Demeulemeester and Dries Van Noten doing their own thing successfuly, despite what the "trends" demand. They have my respect.

P.S. I just really hope that Raf Simons stays afloat, for some reason I have a bad feeling about his label.

 

[Lena]

for some its hype, from some is substance ..

i'll put hype for Gesquere, substance for Adrover
(hence he's with no backers at the moment)

my lists are based on the 'new generation' designers

uber hyped:
*Jeremy Scott
*Stella McCartney
*Luella
*Phoebe Philo
*Julien McDonald
*DSquared
*ProenzaS.
*Zac Pozen
*Bernhard W.
*IOC
*As Four

true talents
*Elbaz (Lanvin)
*Ralf Rucci
*Martin Grant
*Elie Kishimoto
*Sophia Kokosalaki
*Tess Giberson
*Lars Nilsson (Nina Ricci)
*Consuelo Castiglioni (Marni)
*Bless
*Jurgi Persoons
*Lutz

 

[softgrey]

i'll just say this...when all the hype was going on surrounding miguel androver, i borrowed some clothes from the showroom for a photoshoot...the 'skirt' and i say that loosely..was a piece of sequin fabric cut from the bolt...in other words...a piece of fabric. period...it wasn't sewn or hemmed or cut or draped or DESIGNED in any way...miguel did, however, thoughtfully provide a safety pin to secure the fabric to the model's waist (or maybe that was left there by the last stylist who borrowed the clothes)...

my point is that he did a few good pieces, but the rest was all hype...and he never really got past that collection (the one with the burberry coat turned backward into a dress)...i put him in the same category as daryl k. another over-hyped designer.

i do think nicolas started out with some beautiful and immaculately cut pieces, but he seems to be a one-trick pony..regurgitating the same ideas (which aren't even selling)season after season...i don't see enough of an evloution to make me believe he can keep going...people are losing interest...

i have to say , i pretty much agree with lena's list

ps-faust-we call it "the emperor's new clothes"...(andersen is one of my favorites)

 

[faust]

Originally posted by softgrey@Mar 11th, 2004 - 1:43 pm
ps-faust-we call it "the emperor's new clothes"...(andersen is one of my favorites)

Oh, yeah! Well, I read them all in Russian

 

[softgrey]

Originally posted by faust+Mar 11th, 2004 - 2:23 pm--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(faust @ Mar 11th, 2004 - 2:23 pm)</div><div class='quotemain'> <!--QuoteBegin-softgrey@Mar 11th, 2004 - 1:43 pm
ps-faust-we call it "the emperor's new clothes"...(andersen is one of my favorites)

Oh, yeah! Well, I read them all in Russian [/b][/quote]
i know..i think that's very cool! B)

 

[Scott]

Having never actually seen any of Miguel's work at hand,its hard for me to judge from that perspective. However,what I see on the runway seems genuine and pure. Nicolas,on the other hand,you can just feel the hype oozing from his collections. At least what it has become over the last three years.


I agree very much with Lena's list as well.

 

[Lena]

i'll take it from you softgrey (regarding Adrover.. )

 

[stylegurrl]

IMHO the most over hyped designers are Stella McCartney, Marc Jacobs, Proenza Schouler and Nicholas Ghesquiere. Considering all of the favorable press they get, i really haven't seen any spectacular designs from any of them. In the case of Stella and Marc-the quality and style of their clothes rarely justifies the price tag. Their designs often look as if they are straight from H&M or Top Shop. I was finished with Nicholas after it was discovered that he had blatantly ripped off the work of an unknown designer. Proenza Schouler irked me because I read an article which stated that they cheated their way through Parsons and used their connection to Michael Kors to boost their profile.

I read an article in a British paper a few months ago which noted something very true. It said that Stella McCartney was the first truly 21st Century designer-one who's entire career was built upon hype.

Personally, I think there are designers who would have been better suited for the Chloe job, however I don't think Phoebe Philo is hyped that much. She keeps a relatively low profile compared to many of her fame-seeking peers.

Designers that I feel should get more attention: Lawrence Steele, Tracy Reese, Bernaz Seraphour (sp?) and Veronique Branquinho.

 

[Luna]

Off the subject but... :

... I'm frightend of this person.

 

[Lena]

Originally posted by stylegurrl@Mar 11th, 2004 - 11:42 pm

I read an article in a British paper a few months ago which noted something very true. It said that Stella McCartney was the first truly 21st Century designer-one who's entire career was built upon hype.

great quoting

btw, i've met Phobe once in Paris 'townhall' party (at the exact time of her first Chloe-without-Stella collection) and could not believe the hype
..she was with an entourage of fifteen people and all she did was an entrance and an exit..
..i mean please, have mercy dear Phoebe, you are not ysl yet

 

[Atelier]

Originally posted by stylegurrl@Mar 11th, 2004 - 3:42 pm
Designers that I feel should get more attention: Lawrence Steele...

From The New Yorker March 22, 1999:

Three years ago, Steele was included in a list published by Harper's Bazaar of twenty-one designers whom the editors had identified as "the next hotshots." A few, like the British eccentric Alexander McQueen, who designs for the house of Givenchy, and the Cypriot designer Hussein Chalayan, have flourished. Most, however, are out of business. "It's a funny thing how one designer will make it and another one will not, despite the talent," Dawn Mello, the president of Bergdorf Goodman, told me. "None of us really understand it. It's more than talent that is necessary. You need to be on fire."

The more things change, the more they stay the same.

 

[stylegurrl]

Originally posted by Lena+Mar 11th, 2004 - 3:51 pm--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Lena @ Mar 11th, 2004 - 3:51 pm)</div><div class='quotemain'> <!--QuoteBegin-stylegurrl@Mar 11th, 2004 - 11:42 pm

I read an article in a British paper a few months ago which noted something very true. It said that Stella McCartney was the first truly 21st Century designer-one who's entire career was built upon hype.

great quoting

btw, i've met Phobe once in Paris 'townhall' party (at the exact time of her first Chloe-without-Stella collection) and could not believe the hype
..she was with an entourage of fifteen people and all she did was an entrance and an exit..
..i mean please, have mercy dear Phoebe, you are not ysl yet [/b][/quote]
Wow! I had never heard anything like that before Jeez, she's getting a big head isn't she Well, my opinion of her just changed a bit. I thought she was down to earth.... Thanks for that info Lena

 

[stylegurrl]

Originally posted by Atelier+Mar 11th, 2004 - 4:11 pm--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Atelier @ Mar 11th, 2004 - 4:11 pm)</div><div class='quotemain'> <!--QuoteBegin-stylegurrl@Mar 11th, 2004 - 3:42 pm
Designers that I feel should get more attention: Lawrence Steele...

From The New Yorker March 22, 1999:

Three years ago, Steele was included in a list published by Harper's Bazaar of twenty-one designers whom the editors had identified as "the next hotshots."  A few, like the British eccentric Alexander McQueen, who designs for the house of Givenchy, and the Cypriot designer Hussein Chalayan, have flourished.  Most, however, are out of business.  "It's a funny thing how one designer will make it and another one will not, despite the talent," Dawn Mello, the president of Bergdorf Goodman, told me.  "None of us really understand it.  It's more than talent that is necessary. You need to be on fire."

The more things change, the more they stay the same. [/b][/quote]
Thank you for posting that Atelier. What a shame that personality or 'star quality' take precedence over true talent in the industry. It's kind of disheartening to anyone who hopes to become a designer. You wonder if i's worth working hard when talent doesn't seem to be what you are judged by...

 

[Spacemiu]

I certinly doun't think nick G is a messiah. To me a messiah is soem one who is attemting to eveolve and change and creat a stroung aristic stament.