Fashion Scandal in Italy- the Fashion Mafia

[Scott]

source-diane pernet +ashaedviewonfashion.com

FASHION SCANDAL IN MILAN

Dear Shaded Viewers,

Last night there was a major reportage on italian fashion on national tv channel RAI 3 attacking the use of cheap black market labour by some brands like Fendi, D&G and Prada in Naples and Florence. Also in the discussion was the conflict of interests of fashion editors that are working as consultants for fashion companies and in particular they were attacking Franca Sozzani saying that she does fashion campaigns and her partner Luca Stoppini does fashion ad campaigns for everybody and Franca uses only her son and no other italian photographers. As you can imagine it was a big scandal because the way things usually are in Italy is that everybody knows something but nobody talks about it. Now all eyes are focusing on Conde Nast to see how they are going to handle the situation. It is interesting that this incident was exposed to a large public but don't you think that it is up to the brands or the publications to decide who they work with? Let's face it fashion has always operated as some kind of secret society.

Certainly this does not come as a big surprise to the powers that be at Conde Nast but don't you think that it is up to them to decide what is acceptable in order to maintain the integrity of their magazines ?

Later,

Diane

very interesting and i completely agree with diane. i mean,these conglomerate publishers are indeed the ones dictating everything so therefore it is their responsibility. it's saddening they called out franca sozzani particularly. does anyone in europe have anymore info and articles on all of this. i'd love to read more about what's being said.

btw,forgive me if this is in the wrong place...perhaps rumours??

 

[Caffeine]

wow, they charge so much for the products, so it doesn't make any sense for them to use black mkt labor! what a shame!

 

[Dkammern]

although i'd like to read more about the black market thing...

i seriously dont get why would it be wrong for Franca or any other brand consultant to use his/her son/friend for work if she considers he is the best for the job, or the one that best understands her directions, etc...

i dont hear anyone complaining it's always the same 3 photographers, oscar de la renta and caroline trentini on american vogue.
does anyone care that mario testino did for a long time work almost exclusively with model kate moss and carine as a consultant...

i always believed this was how it works in the fashion industry and i find it absolutly reasonable. It's not so much about individual talent, but being able to work as a good team

 

[jhaime]

The severe lack in education concerning these matters is very disturbing...regarding the out sourcing or sub-contracting of production by the big Italian houses.

I read an article the other day concerning how Chinese businessmen now own 1/3 of designer production in Italy, with Chinese immigrants paying paid below minimum wage...

Obviously D&G, Gucci etc know this is going on, but don't really care a great deal about exploitation...profit maximisation is the key factor, doesn't matter how you attain it, as far as they are concerned.

However, the majority of the consumer market, see the made in italy label & just pressume or assosiate it with the fact that production has been of the highest quality & price.

 

[Marmigit]

I watched the program (that can be viewed at http://www.report.rai.it/R2_HPprogramma/0,,243,00.html) and I felt utterly disgusted by what was shown.

They interviewed the CEO of Vivienne Westwood and Mario Boselli, President of the Camera Nazionale della Moda, who openly accused the Conde Nast and in particularly Anna Wintour of boycotting the Milanese Fashion week.

Then they showed factories that produce luxury bags employing black market labor. In particularly Prada (the nylon bags are paid to the manufacturers 26 euros versus 440 euros paid at the store in Milan), Fendi (a canvas bag is paid less the 20 euros while at the store it costs 720 euros) and Dolce e Gabbana (a leather bag is paid between 20 and 35 euros).

Then they showed the ethical manufacturers, like the CEO of “Consorzio 100% Italiano”, a consortium of 64 factories that produce leather accessories for Bulgari, Cavalli, Gucci and Ferragamo. He explained that they used only experienced artisans, top-notch leathers and techniques. The cost of one of their bag at production is 300 euros. Among other ethical fashion houses were Tod’s, Antonio Marras (who showed his atelier in Sardinia, where his embroiderers hand-stitch every single dress) and Brunello Cucinelli.

The problem about Franca Sozzani, Luca Stoppini and others is that the program accused them of doing ad campaigns for fashion houses (Cerruti, Moschino, Alberta Ferretti, Diesel etc) and at the same time using the very same labels for their editorials. If true, this is a fraud for Vogue Italia readers, because they buy the magazine thinking it shows the best while in reality it is a enormous ad for the fashion houses that can afford to employ the same Vogue journalists.

 

[bismarck]

Thanks for the translation Marmigit...it's all very interesting and edifying.

 

[educo]

although i'd like to read more about the black market thing...

i seriously dont get why would it be wrong for Franca or any other brand consultant to use his/her son/friend for work if she considers he is the best for the job, or the one that best understands her directions, etc...

i dont hear anyone complaining it's always the same 3 photographers, oscar de la renta and caroline trentini on american vogue.
does anyone care that mario testino did for a long time work almost exclusively with model kate moss and carine as a consultant...

i always believed this was how it works in the fashion industry and i find it absolutly reasonable. It's not so much about individual talent, but being able to work as a good team

The reason that it might concern many people is that, many people who are just as talented and who could work well with people will never get a chance. I understand that there are favorites, but the only reason Franca's son is always picked is because Franca's underlying themes are the same. And since it's another variation of the same theme, her son naturally would fit the job because it's essentially the same concept.

US Vogue doesn't push the envelope the way Italian Vogue and French Vogue usually do and so we don't expect much from them. Mario testino and mert & marcus have two different styles for example. It would be against common sense of you're trying to do a shoot in one style and pick a photographer that doesn't shoot in that way. I think Franca knows this and I feel she might be catering the concepts around her son's phtogrpahic style.
As far as the industry is concerned, what drives fashion has always been insane profits and now that it's getting out of hand ($2000 shoes?) there is going to be a backlash. I don't care how much money you make, you're not going to be happy if the bag or outfit that cost you thousands only cost less than a few hundred dollars or euros to make.

 

[Meg]

I agree educo, I can to be honest see a backlash slowly starting to rise as people become increasingly priced out of markets that they were able to use as their first stepping stone (ie bags). I think it is seen in the rise of mid market brands as well as more people finding it more than acceptable to wear a variety of brands to show your fashion know-how.

I'm also surprised that people are surprised the conditions and labour of some of these factories. What do people expect? Someone handstitching your cheap prada nylon bag?! Especially with the proximity to North Africa, the same thing happens in France. As well as the chinese migrants as people have mentioned.

 

[Becca Rich]

Haha..
they would

 

[ysljunkie]

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I think what this does is explain how these house's make money. Aside from the perfume what else do they have that makes big time money.WHEN IT COMES TO VOGUE and milan fashion week I tried to get the vdeo but Anna Wintour ALWAYS has something abd to say about it. I always think why is she being so outspoken about it?
here is an example oddly enough I couldnt get the one from last season where she completely dissed the whole week by saying the clothes were to much for her or something along the lines of that.

 

[JJohnson]

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I think what this does is explain how these house's make money. Aside from the perfume what else do they have that makes big time money.WHEN IT COMES TO VOGUE and milan fashion week I tried to get the vdeo but Anna Wintour ALWAYS has something abd to say about it. I always think why is she being so outspoken about it?
here is an example oddly enough I couldnt get the one from last season where she completely dissed the whole week by saying the clothes were to much for her or something along the lines of that.

Too much for her to afford?! lol she makes 2 mil a year and conde even gives her a $25,000 clothing allowance. This makes me question what's real and what's not now. Even further, why should we even buy into these brands? What do we ultimately want?

 

[ysljunkie]

Too much for her to afford?! lol she makes 2 mil a year and conde even gives her a $25,000 clothing allowance. This makes me question what's real and what's not now. Even further, why should we even buy into these brands? What do we ultimately want?

No No, Too flashy she said something it was "something" babe I dont remeber the exact quote, great existentialist question though, I still really dont know why somebody gets out of these brands.

 

[Meg]

I'm not sure this article prompts existential questioning that fashion in general doesn't prompt

 

[jhaime]

we're already witnessing a backlash...there are now more progressive/emerging designers than ever before within the european market. A number of variables define the reason to why, however rising luxury brand prices are accountable within the equation of it all.

Concerning which photographers, stylists etc are used... who gives a flying you know what? it doesn't matter what industry you work in, film production being a great example. It's a closed shop & always has been...it's simply who you know, not what you know or how much talent you have...it's always been the same in any walk of life...not just fashion :S

 

[sidrasgaya]

I am so sad after watching this. My God, how someone can say "we are more business than journalists?" I know it's right, but I don't understand how she dares to say it! I didn't have that idea of what Made in Italy was...I am so sad!

 

[Scott]

but don't you think putting all that blame on franca is unecassary as ultimately it is a publisher's decision?

as for the black market thing,you know,personally i always felt,as i normally do,quite wary and suspicious of the system these big brands use. alot of you guys know me,and i always b*tch and moan about conglomerates,big brands,and really with these revelations,we all have every right to. they're just untrustworthy and they're never honest.....and we are the one's,as customers,that buy into it these properties and they never tell us anything of the inside.

 

[Miss Dalloway]

^^I dont like the fact that she created a monopoly for herself and her family members.

 

[fashionhollywood]

This ALL sounds like yet another sequel to the "Godfather". Traditionally, families in Italy have this thing about keeping the money within. Not to say it's right or wrong. But people worldwide need to be aware of this when addressing cultures/society outside their own. Here in America over the past 20 years, businesses have black marketed American products, supported extensive importing, even from rivals and previously banned sources. America did the same thing by giving incentives/money to Mexico and many other Latin American countries to build factories, giving jobs to the locals thereby eliminating work in America. Businesses will always continue to do this based on economics. Your local/regional workers demand too much money and the businesses seek out other sources to produce their product without any loss. Fact is no matter where a product is made or who makes it, the DEMAND remains key. And. Publishers like Conde-Nast is in the businesses of SELLING not POLITICS. If we want the "clothing manufacturers" to be a moral then we simply don't buy their products "advertised" by Conde Nast that's if one can forsake purchase of their fashion magazines and newspapers. I think it's ALL rather simple!

 

[nqth]

Is a "real fashion democracy" starting? First you have cheap brands that look like expensive brands, which is OK. But then you want fashion people to open their doors wide and act like they were politicians, mean voted and choosen by people.

It is nice because fashion editors are now suddenly treated like journalists. Fashion magazines used to be, or maybe still are, about promoting fashion houses, not criticizing them. It's not the same journalism like, let's say NYT, that is more about the social impacts of fashion.

Will it change? I don't know. I think the magazine editors should use who ever they want to do the job. As long as the magazine sells. It's a 5 min. one man show bussiness, they don't have time and money to organize a contest to get the best photographer, stylist, makeup artist, hair dresser, models, light assistants, brands ... possible for a photoshot. And it is impossible to work with people you don't work with before.

I have heard that it is true that one is not free to shoot whatever he or she wants for Italian Vogue. It seems to be nothing but fantastic product placement:-) But this is fashion photography, not a reportage about fashion, and I think people should rather know that when they buy a fashion magazine.

I think Franca Sozzani is doing a very good job promoting Italian fashion, as well as some other talented people who she admires. I guess that her husband is doing the ads in general, not just for being published in Vogue (which is rather unlikely so it is rather not a problem.

 

[fuchimama]

Fashionhollywood, I think it sounds like a movie sequel too, namely the sequel to Zoolander

It's not fair that Sozzani is under fire for keeping Italian Vogue in the family when Lisa Love has centered Teen Vogue around Nathalie and all her little friends...