Ferragamo Pre-Fall 2023 Milan | the Fashion Spot

Ferragamo Pre-Fall 2023 Milan

I like the 1st and 2nd to last look

but here is a challenge (to him and literally everyone else), try not to present a generic denim jacket ever again??
 
I like it, this is the commercial version of his debut, which I think is a smart way to develop a signature for his tenure.

The collection is Hermes-esque.
The womenswear is great. Perfect balance between day wear and evening wear. I like the pop of colors throughout the collection. The green Prada-like coat is the highlight of the collection, it's just sublime.
He can push the menswear further, they're still on the safe side right now.

The clothes are good but I find the shoes and bags are kinda bland.
 
I find it decently good for Ferragamo. Given that this is a leather goods company doing clothes, the problem for me is when the bags aren’t desirable at all.
Good shoes tho.
 
It’s sort of the best of late-90s fashions, isn’t it? Tom’s Gucci/Calvin/Prada/Helmut/Narciso/Donna etc etc. Nothing looks new nor fresh, but everything looks solidly tailored and well-constructed. It’s "nice", "polite" clothes that seamlessly meld and disappear into anyone’s existing modern wardrobe— like the house brand of a department store’s politely interpreting the looks of the season into accessible merch.

Nondescript designs aside, these two shots are hilarious: He seems to have a huge woman’s crotch, while she seems to have a notable bulge. WTF is going on with post… LOL???



VOGUE.COM
 
I have a feeling that this was what Matthew was trying to do at Givenchy. The execution of this is so much better though.

Also, most of the issues I had with the September show are absent here, so I consider an improvement.
 
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there are some very strong outfits (blue suit, white suit, metallic dress, long white dress, long black dress, the leather pieces seem good enough) but a tiny lost still.

those looks with table cloth fabric should have never seen the light of the day, though.
 
It's far too random and lacking in cohesion for my taste. The way it's presented reminds me of how the vintage website Resee curates their website, except they of course have more interesting pieces.

Ferragamo has gone about this new appointment in the wrong way completely: they want a total rebrand in order to generate that "cool" cultural cache so that they can sell, but the problem is the products are very generic. They could be from Matthew Williams or Zara or Daniel Lee. What exactly is his signature?

The bags, as @Lola701 mentioned, are very sub-par. I'm shocked actually at how weak they are.
 
This is a slight improvement.

He's definitely a part of the Y2K revival, which isn't my cup of tea at all.

It's better than Williams's Givenchy but not that much better.
 
It’s so matronly, I’m almost shocked by that. Who exactly is the customer he’s going for? The 55-75 demographic? The gold dress is the only desirable piece. The most offensive is the red net dress, it tacky and has no place in the collection. Oh, and was there menswear? I don’t even notice it.
 
that red open work crochet dress could use some tighter gauging around the bathing suit area :ninja:
 
This is actually such a letdown after his debut. The menswear especially, from the fit to the design is just not desirable, like the plastic brown track suit with the big black bag look, nothing at all is close to desirable here, from clothes to bag to shoes.
The womens are slightly better, but is also somewhat incoherent to what he presented in his debut.
 
According to the PR e-mail: "I want to create a new Hollywood for Ferragamo, and it's about introducing new ways of dressing both for the red carpet and for everyday life"

:unsure:
 
It’s nice but I don’t know if he pushes his ideas far enough for me just yet.

Im getting more 90s than y2k revival here.

Some of it is a bit too matronly for my taste and reminds me of Akris. lol

It's also all over the place, some looks are nice and then some are very sterile and remind me of scrubs.
 
This really is quite terrible. I hate to be discouraging but I don't think he's going to be at Ferragamo very long.
Such a missed opportunity when you're investing all that money into rebranding a brand the wrong way, without having the right product to back it up. Again, nothing desirable here and I don't exactly follow who the target customer is for this?
It's too matronly for a young, hype-following client and not luxury/intelligent enough for a more high-end or older client.

The bags and shoes in particular are quite shockingly bad! In this area there is so much competition and this is not going to cut it, at all.
 
According to the PR e-mail: "I want to create a new Hollywood for Ferragamo, and it's about introducing new ways of dressing both for the red carpet and for everyday life"

:unsure:

Designing for the red carpet, celebrity aesthetic, is painfully limiting.
If that is where your inspiration starts, then maybe just stop now.
 

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