Francisco Costa and Italo Zucchelli Exiting Calvin Klein

[Sensation]

Sad about Francisco - hope he ends up somewhere else soon.

 

[Creative]

This has been a rumor for months so it didn't really surprise me. In fact, never ever a piece of fashion news left me this cold and emotionless. I think Francisco was quite a soulless and boring designer. He doesn't leave a legacy or something that will be remembered in 30 years. He was just there...

And yeah, Raf is surely in.

wasn't raf complaining about the workload at dior because of having to do 6 collections a year and balancing his life between paris and antwerp?

now he'll have to balance his life between new york and antwerp and since calvin klein also has a mens pre collection this means he'll have to do 8 collections for them each year

This is just... I don't even know how to take it. He is complaining about 6 collections plus his own brand and now he will be in charge of menswear and womenswear and precollections (8 plus his own one). And he will surely be CK creative director, which he wasn't at Dior. And CK is based in NY... While Dior was based 'near' Antwerp.


I will do my favourite thing in life: rolling my eyes.

 

[Spike413]

I just can't. Aside from the fact that the fashion industry seems to be hemorrhaging talent left and right and it's impossible to keep up with, the thought of Raf taking a house which was at its core about simplicity and sensuality -- I'm talking about in-your-face, easy to understand sensuality, not some beyond obscure intellectual form of it -- doesn't make me happy. It was always my one main gripe with much of Costa's work that he turned down the heat, the human side of Calvin Klein, and honestly Raf doesn't seem like the type to turn it back up to where it belongs.

Italo's collections rarely excited or inspired me, but it was a relatable vision for men who aren't slaves to trends and who don't want to appear, for lack of a better word, ridiculous. It was also nice that he seemed to address the fact that not every fashion-conscious male is a wraith-like stick figure.

 

[dior_couture1245]

I just can't. Aside from the fact that the fashion industry seems to be hemorrhaging talent left and right and it's impossible to keep up with, the thought of Raf taking a house which was at its core about simplicity and sensuality -- I'm talking about in-your-face, easy to understand sensuality, not some beyond obscure intellectual form of it -- doesn't make me happy. It was always my one main gripe with much of Costa's work that he turned down the heat, the human side of Calvin Klein, and honestly Raf doesn't seem like the type to turn it back up to where it belongs.

These are my thoughts exactly.

But fashion (and the general culture, at large) seems to be completely neutered these days, so I doubt CK would be interested in hiring anyone who could reignite the brand's true DNA sex appeal...but that's exactly what this house needs to stay relevant. In fact...it's what makes Calvin Klein Calvin Klein.

I feel like Costa's earlier work at the house captured some of that smart sensuality - that kind of intelligent design with an undercurrent of eroticism...but he went off track when he started following Phoebe Philo and disregarded his Brazilian roots.

Raf could be ok - but if his Dior was any indication of how he handles (or more like refuses to handle) sensuality, then I'm not particularly hopeful. I mean - what says sexy more than embellished water shoes?!!?! Yikes! Haha

 

[Creative]

Raf can't do sexy cause he is too self-conscious. I think that's not his niche. I'd be surprised if his Calvin looks sexy...

I'm pretty sure he'll do Raf instead of Calvin. Just his vision, à la Jil Sander. And I won't blame him if that's the case. Calvin Klein's history is just styling and Raf is a little bit more than that.

 

[Marc10]

Never really saw Calvin Klein (Collection) as SUCH a sexy brand, it was always more about a sort of urban elegance, understated but sharp femininity... very close to Jil Sander, which is why Raf would be a great choice. And he can make "sexy" collections very well, like the spectacular S/S 2009.

 

[t-rex]

Which collection is/will be Costa's last?

 

[HeatherAnne]

So will Raf go back to minimalism then to suit the aesthetic of the house? That would see him regressing, instead of progressing, after his work at Dior.

With this endless musical chairs, designers have become infinitely more important fashion houses. Maybe it's always been that way, but now it's more apparent (and obnoxious) than ever.

 

[Steddycam91]

More and more I feel like Raf and Hedi are the red herrings among all the designers-switching-houses talk. We could very well hear news within the next few hours/days/weeks that will prove me wrong, but I wouldn't be surprised for them to retreat out of the limelight and let people "miss" them...for a little while. Hedi, in particular, I could see going back to just photography and waiting until the Chanel position...becomes available.

 

[george5]

Which collection is/will be Costa's last?

I think Fall 2016 was his last collection.

 

[WilhelmF]

End of an era

 

[dior_couture1245]

Never really saw Calvin Klein (Collection) as SUCH a sexy brand, it was always more about a sort of urban elegance, understated but sharp femininity... very close to Jil Sander, which is why Raf would be a great choice. And he can make "sexy" collections very well, like the spectacular S/S 2009.

Once again, I think most people are confusing "sexuality" and "sensuality" with a certain kind of sexy à la Dolce & Gabbana circa 2003.

The entirety of the Calvin Klein brand image IS sexuality and sensuality. There is probably no other brand so intrinsically linked with sex appeal. And yes - it's true - most of the clothes that Klein himself designed - or Costa's earlier work, for that matter - were never raunchy, but it was worn by and made for sensual, mature, adults...much like original Helmut Lang.

Raf has produced more sensual collections, but that seems long ago in his earlier days at Jil Sander...but his work for the last 5 or so years seems to be completely neutered and his preferred vision of a woman is that of a 14-year-old girl model.

 

[disco54]

I just can't. Aside from the fact that the fashion industry seems to be hemorrhaging talent left and right and it's impossible to keep up with, the thought of Raf taking a house which was at its core about simplicity and sensuality -- I'm talking about in-your-face, easy to understand sensuality, not some beyond obscure intellectual form of it -- doesn't make me happy. It was always my one main gripe with much of Costa's work that he turned down the heat, the human side of Calvin Klein, and honestly Raf doesn't seem like the type to turn it back up to where it belongs.

Italo's collections rarely excited or inspired me, but it was a relatable vision for men who aren't slaves to trends and who don't want to appear, for lack of a better word, ridiculous. It was also nice that he seemed to address the fact that not every fashion-conscious male is a wraith-like stick figure.

Well said! Raf is too clinical and will be a misfit in NY. CK's clothes in the 70s-90s, had a clean sensuality about them with an urban NYC romanticism. Raf's aesthetic is utterly divorced from that.
I don't see this ending well.

 

[Mody]

With the marketing direction they are taking right now I wouldn't be surprised Kanye West ends with being the new director lol

 

[rip_ian curtis]

If Raf comes in I hope he doesn't bring anything Dior with him. All that heavy-handedness, un-fashionability and even cheap looking was making me sick for many seasons before his tenure ended. At Calvin he would really need to get back to his 2008-2010 period at Jil and of course the style of his own line. Luckily Calvin has more relevant things in its history for him to get inspired by (the american youth, utility, jeans, sportswear...) than what Dior did.

 

[mikose]

Once again, I think most people are confusing "sexuality" and "sensuality" with a certain kind of sexy à la Dolce & Gabbana circa 2003.

The entirety of the Calvin Klein brand image IS sexuality and sensuality. There is probably no other brand so intrinsically linked with sex appeal. And yes - it's true - most of the clothes that Klein himself designed - or Costa's earlier work, for that matter - were never raunchy, but it was worn by and made for sensual, mature, adults...much like original Helmut Lang.

Raf has produced more sensual collections, but that seems long ago in his earlier days at Jil Sander...but his work for the last 5 or so years seems to be completely neutered and his preferred vision of a woman is that of a 14-year-old girl model.

Mr.Costa tried to bring youthful theme to calvin klein for last collection.But it seem didn't work out.Raf has same vision.I think he will do same sexless colection like what he did with dior.

Italo did pretty well in men collection.I'm shock to see him leave
Hedi slimane's vision will suit new Ck creative direction .They are trying to do cheap street hooker style for their S/S 2016 ad.This is so much better what he heidi did with YSL.

 

[WilliamsLe010919]

*waiting for Raf assignment announcement to drop*

 

[Benn98]

Ugh, this is awful news!! I really, really liked what Zucchelli did for the men's line, just as well I've invested in quite a bit of his pieces. I'm all for Raf at Klein, but would he be able to incorporate athletic elements the way Zucchelli did? An element which is now almost synonymous with the brand's core?

 

[Lola701]

Didn't Raf had a clause in his Dior contract that made impossible for him to work for another brand for 3 years?
This Calvin thing sounds more like Hedi IMO. He knows one thing about Sexuality, Jeans, sellable RTW, perfume and marketing. He is like the perfect "complete revamp" candidate. Plus, he is based in L.A.

Francisco did a great Job. I wasn't really a fan of his "Celine inspired" collections but he did a really good job. He is a very talented designer and i would love to see him working for a brand that "cares" more about High fashion.
Stefano, Francisco and Alessandra...Tom Ford was a master at choosing his assistants.

For the first time in a long time, i'm excited about Calvin. It's time for them to be relevant again.

 

[Fashionstuff]

Didn't Raf had a clause in his Dior contract that made impossible for him to work for another brand for 3 years?
This Calvin thing sounds more like Hedi IMO. He knows one thing about Sexuality, Jeans, sellable RTW, perfume and marketing. He is like the perfect "complete revamp" candidate. Plus, he is based in L.A.

Francisco did a great Job. I wasn't really a fan of his "Celine inspired" collections but he did a really good job. He is a very talented designer and i would love to see him working for a brand that "cares" more about High fashion.
Stefano, Francisco and Alessandra...Tom Ford was a master at choosing his assistants.

For the first time in a long time, i'm excited about Calvin. It's time for them to be relevant again.

Simons has non-compete agreement with Dior but until summer.

Source : WWD.com

The news comes on the heels of rumors the last few months that Simons would be joining in a top creative role. The house has consistently declined to comment about Simons joining the firm. It is believed that Simons, former creative director of Christian Dior, has a non-compete with LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton until the summer.

I think it will be Raf Simons because WWD.com and BoF are writing about "rumors" , i mean they will not writing about simply rumors if they are not sure that it will be an official announcement. And if Raf Simons has non-compete Agreement until summer than it will be summer after one month.
And if it will be Raf Simons than i want to see how he will do all this job and more his own brand.