http://asia.news.yahoo.com/050129/afp/050129002832top.html
Saturday January 29, 8:28 AM
Galliano channels Napoleon for next winter, Issey Miyake's classic chic
PARIS (AFP) - John Galliano reigned supreme over men's fashion week with a touch of Napoleonic flair for next winter, while Japan's Naoki Takizawa gave his collection for Issey Miyake a classic, refined look.
Earlier this week, Galliano said the starting point for his spring-summer 2005 haute couture collection for Christian Dior was a quote from Bob Dylan, who once described Pop artist Andy Warhol as "Napoleon in rags".
For his eponymous men's line for autumn-winter 2005-06, the British designer eliminated the 1960s influence and took the concept quite literally, dressing his style emperors in outsized overcoats and Bonaparte-style hats.
Whether using red tartan mohair or shearling, Galliano gave the coats flair by experimenting with volume, adding giant pockets, and by layering them over slouchy track pants that recalled his penchant for urban streetwear.
The British designer indulged his witty side by constructing some of his pointed Napoleon hats in leopard print or from real newspapers like the Financial Times and France's Le Figaro.
He also sent out a few different characters, like naughty jockeys in a shimmering lilac jersey, khaki briefs and nothing else but a riding crop. White deerstalker hats and beige quilted jackets brought Sherlock Holmes to mind.
Amidst the high-octane spectacle, Galliano also offered some real clothes, like lightweight parkas, fleece jackets and even a pair of jeans -- albeit with sequin detailing.
The British designer, dressed as one of his latter-day Napoleons, strutted onto the catwalk to wild applause, bringing the first day of menswear collections in the French capital to a frenzied finish.
Earlier, Takizawa brought Issey Miyake Homme back to Paris after several years in Milan with a luxurious no-nonsense collection of suits and overcoats -- what he called the "basic items of traditional menswear".
The Japanese designer is the polar opposite of Galliano. Nothing outrageous here -- just clean charcoal gray wool pinstripe suits, three-quarter-length black overcoats, chunky cable-knit cardigans and beige trench coats.
For a bit of whimsy, Takizawa added moss green and purple to his muted color palette. Black parkas turned inside out to reveal colored linings. Floral pins will offer men a chance to get in touch with their feminine side next winter.
French knitwear queen Sonia Rykiel added a bit of British eccentricity to her collection, pairing sober check trousers with crewneck sweaters and blazers in sorbet hues like raspberry, lime and black currant.
Rainbow-striped scarves and flowers pinned on the lapel brightened up military khaki overcoats paired with slim trousers and black combat boots. A dark suit came to life when finished with red gloves.
For the casual man, faded denim cargo trousers and knit duster coats should do the trick. A quilted violet check vest looked perfect for a long morning walk in the posh French Alps resort of Courchevel.
At night, a chic black velvet suit -- finished with a small ruby brooch -- seemed ideal for an evening at the theater. For the sartorially bold, sequined suits in black or burgundy could make the ultimate fashion statement.
Men's fashion week continues on Saturday with collections from Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton, Belgium's Dries van Noten and Japan's Yohji Yamamoto.
Saturday January 29, 8:28 AM
Galliano channels Napoleon for next winter, Issey Miyake's classic chic
PARIS (AFP) - John Galliano reigned supreme over men's fashion week with a touch of Napoleonic flair for next winter, while Japan's Naoki Takizawa gave his collection for Issey Miyake a classic, refined look.
Earlier this week, Galliano said the starting point for his spring-summer 2005 haute couture collection for Christian Dior was a quote from Bob Dylan, who once described Pop artist Andy Warhol as "Napoleon in rags".
For his eponymous men's line for autumn-winter 2005-06, the British designer eliminated the 1960s influence and took the concept quite literally, dressing his style emperors in outsized overcoats and Bonaparte-style hats.
Whether using red tartan mohair or shearling, Galliano gave the coats flair by experimenting with volume, adding giant pockets, and by layering them over slouchy track pants that recalled his penchant for urban streetwear.
The British designer indulged his witty side by constructing some of his pointed Napoleon hats in leopard print or from real newspapers like the Financial Times and France's Le Figaro.
He also sent out a few different characters, like naughty jockeys in a shimmering lilac jersey, khaki briefs and nothing else but a riding crop. White deerstalker hats and beige quilted jackets brought Sherlock Holmes to mind.
Amidst the high-octane spectacle, Galliano also offered some real clothes, like lightweight parkas, fleece jackets and even a pair of jeans -- albeit with sequin detailing.
The British designer, dressed as one of his latter-day Napoleons, strutted onto the catwalk to wild applause, bringing the first day of menswear collections in the French capital to a frenzied finish.
Earlier, Takizawa brought Issey Miyake Homme back to Paris after several years in Milan with a luxurious no-nonsense collection of suits and overcoats -- what he called the "basic items of traditional menswear".
The Japanese designer is the polar opposite of Galliano. Nothing outrageous here -- just clean charcoal gray wool pinstripe suits, three-quarter-length black overcoats, chunky cable-knit cardigans and beige trench coats.
For a bit of whimsy, Takizawa added moss green and purple to his muted color palette. Black parkas turned inside out to reveal colored linings. Floral pins will offer men a chance to get in touch with their feminine side next winter.
French knitwear queen Sonia Rykiel added a bit of British eccentricity to her collection, pairing sober check trousers with crewneck sweaters and blazers in sorbet hues like raspberry, lime and black currant.
Rainbow-striped scarves and flowers pinned on the lapel brightened up military khaki overcoats paired with slim trousers and black combat boots. A dark suit came to life when finished with red gloves.
For the casual man, faded denim cargo trousers and knit duster coats should do the trick. A quilted violet check vest looked perfect for a long morning walk in the posh French Alps resort of Courchevel.
At night, a chic black velvet suit -- finished with a small ruby brooch -- seemed ideal for an evening at the theater. For the sartorially bold, sequined suits in black or burgundy could make the ultimate fashion statement.
Men's fashion week continues on Saturday with collections from Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton, Belgium's Dries van Noten and Japan's Yohji Yamamoto.
