There's so much here that is intuitively out of line with my taste, and yet it doesn't matter. Every single look is constructed immaculately, nothing looks overburdened or heavy or encrusted (and not for a lack of embellishment). This is by far the best show of the season—there's a level of conviction and commitment that never lapses into self-regard or showmanship. It's divine, and yet quite sad because it's hard to imagine a designer having the freedom to develop like this now.