Givenchy F/W 2024.25 Paris

[tourbillions]

already dreaming of the day they revive givenchy's couture with burton. 😍 was she already Mcqueens assistant at Givenchy?

 

[perhydrol]

I also believe it may be Burton. Matthew Williams' departure wasn't unexpected at all, they could have been looking for his successor before that. If it had been Jacquemus, the announcement would have been already made, it's not like it would have outshined any important news coming from the house. His post about Hubert's office was made months ago, it's lost the hype already.

 

[jeanclaude]

I expect another unknown from the studio...and judging from the last studio collections...Givenshit!

 

[tricotineacetat]

Before leading fashion again, Givenchy probably needs a bit a fashion credibility now. And the romantic sensibility of Sarah suits Givenchy or Dior more than McQueen.

Plus, Womenswear and Menswear + Couture: she can do it all.

My long dream has been Haider ( At Givenchy to makeup for how Antoine played him at Berluti) or at Hermes (because I’m tired of Nadège and Veronique)…


Who would you put at Givenchy?

All of the designers from Sarah Burton's generation, including Haider and Olivier, would make for a better choice than appointing somebody from within the studio or going for a young designer with a focus on Gen-Z customers - To become a leading fashion brand again, Givenchy needs to set a new, distinctly different course than where all the other recent hirings went as of late. Givenchy as a former couture house needs the lead of a real 'designer' with a distinct vision rather than merchandisers like Sialelli, De Sarno or 'hyped' names like the Coperni guys whose fame will be forgotten soon.

 

[ecnerretneerg]

All of the designers from Sarah Burton's generation, including Haider and Olivier, would make for a better choice than appointing somebody from within the studio or going for a young designer with a focus on Gen-Z customer

It they pull from that generation, it must be someone with a youthful sensibility. Theoretically, Haider and Olivier would’ve been shoe-ins… in 2008. They’d deliver beautiful clothes (that honor house legacy while highlighing their idiosyncrasies), but it wouldn’t appeal to anyone younger than 35. Their fanbase/clients are aging with them. Plus, I doubt either would be able to create a sell-out bag or shoe, more less market the brand well.

 

[gallianostan]

so they shouldn't hire anyone then, case solved

rip house of givenchy / 1952 - 2024

 

[Scotty]

Does every brand need to cater to under-35-year-olds though? They can buy Balenciaga.

 

[Creative]

Does every brand need to cater to under-35-year-olds though? They can buy Balenciaga.

If you dress Balenciaga being over 30 you are a clown, I’m sorry. It’s for 20 year old people.

I will never understand why Sarah Burton has so much following inside tfs. Yeah, she has the technique, but she’s so corny and irrelevant.

Fashion needs new names. Even if they are as bad as SdS or the previous Givenchy designer.

 

[Lola701]

I will never understand why Sarah Burton has so much following inside tfs. Yeah, she has the technique, but she’s so corny and irrelevant.

She is a good fashion designer. I think that beyond her technique, she is consistent and she has an aesthetic.
In a way, she is a bit too proper, too vanilla for people who loves and expect fireworks from fashion. I like her work but surprisingly I’m more touched by Olivier Rousteing’s work even though I would probably go to the McQueen corner more than the Balmain one.
But she is a bit like Givenchy himself we could say…

Sarah Burton is name that is for me synonymous with stability and somehow, Givenchy needs stability today. But this is me speaking like a business person, not a fashion person.

Anyway, I agree with you about the new blood at large. After all, out of all the stars that have been hired at Givenchy since Hubert left, the only one who has managed to do something was a complete unknown talent.

 

[tourbillions]

Fashion needs new names. Even if they are as bad as SdS or the previous Givenchy designer.

would be nice but already traumatized by all the "new names" out there atm and Givenchy wont survive with another new name flop.

 

[Olaffo]

I’m 99% sure it will be Sarah as Givenchy after all this flops in the past few years will need new opening with someone skilled and technically impeccable. Also daddy Arnault doesn’t have to rush, studio will produce some collections as long as it’s needed and then they’ll get whoever they want. I’m sure if he wanted to give the job to someone else he would have already done that.

 

[LadyJunon]

I’m 99% sure it will be Sarah as Givenchy after all this flops in the past few years will need new opening with someone skilled and technically impeccable. Also daddy Arnault doesn’t have to rush, studio will produce some collections as long as it’s needed and then they’ll get whoever they want. I’m sure if he wanted to give the job to someone else he would have already done that.

Having someone other than Arnault's children call him "Daddy" genuinely makes every fiber of my being retch.

 

[Olaffo]

^ in all honesty I don’t think his children are even allowed to use „daddy”

 

[Nimsay]

Sarah won me over through unbelievable silhouette consistency, upholding McQueens reputation for exquisite construction and fabrics. She did the work as a designer IMO and solved all the customers clothing needs within the McQueen world. The McQueen reputation at the customer level is platinum diamond studded. One of the best - Sarah created clothing that were able to carry Alexander McQueens lofty brand cache. People not knowing McQ RTW but knowing he is like a superstar see the Burtonian RTW and to them it looks like the product of a superstar. Particularly the gowns… McQ normalized the 10k gown standard really.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Late to the party but all I can think of while looking at this is these are some left-brained designs. It reminds me of when I have an idea and obsess about the outcome so much that I'm just overthinking overthinking overthinking, not feeling anything anymore and forget about the vision, then I cry looking at what I did bc it doesn't work at all and sucks so bad lol.

 

[tricotineacetat]

It they pull from that generation, it must be someone with a youthful sensibility. Theoretically, Haider and Olivier would’ve been shoe-ins… in 2008. They’d deliver beautiful clothes (that honor house legacy while highlighing their idiosyncrasies), but it wouldn’t appeal to anyone younger than 35. Their fanbase/clients are aging with them. Plus, I doubt either would be able to create a sell-out bag or shoe, more less market the brand well.

That's maybe a too easy conclusion to assume only a designer from a younger generation may succeed at appealing to Gen-Z customers and possibly below, let alone to think a brand can generate ambitioned growth by only speaking to one demography of clients - As it's been said earlier, a thoroughly considered strategy is vital. What happened at Saint Laurent after the rebranding from YSL or later at Celine is a good example of that, and by those means I don't mean Hedi Slimane's contribution alone but also what Francesca Bellettini disclosed about Saint Laurent's success story well after Vaccarello took over.

That being said, some designers have a better holistic understanding of leading a brand, translating their vision into a product that sells and can become a recognizable icon, as well as to have appeal throughout a diversity of customers. In some cases, it's debateable whether the actual success is that of an accessories' designer in the studio rather than that of the person taking the bow at the end of the show, or a successful tandem of a creative director and CEO. We've seen in some cases the arrogance of a brand thinking they can raise the prices too high in an attempt to create desirability to backfire, as people had mentioned with Ferragamo. It really is a case study, every niche is different but all case studies we can look at from the nearer past have made perfect sense.

I think time will

 

[tricotineacetat]

Oops, am only noticing now I forgot to write the last part 🙈

I think time will tell what will become an exemplar for future designer hirings… that being said, I would rather see somebody more skilled with a fully-formed aesthetic their own we already know than seeing what happened at all the recent Kering hirings.

 

[Nimsay]

But the broad majority of people have no opinions of their own. No thoughts of their own. That is the crisis we are seeing in fashion.

 

[ecnerretneerg]

That being said, some designers have a better holistic understanding of leading a brand, translating their vision into a product that sells and can become a recognizable icon, as well as to have appeal throughout a diversity of customers. In some cases, it's debateable whether the actual success is that of an accessories' designer in the studio rather than that of the person taking the bow at the end of the show, or a successful tandem of a creative director and CEO.

You’re spot on. I’m not saying that a young designer is the answer, nor that the CD must cater solely to a younger demo. Personally, I’m just not sold on talents like Haider or Olivier at a big house focused on pushing a ton of product.

 

[NakedAndAfraid]

I have never cared about this house. I wonder if someone from a different background could establish some codes or vision to take it forward. I would like to see Jun Takahashi take it for a spin. Or Junya. (Though I don't hate this collection.)