Givenchy Menswear F/W 2024.25 Paris

[LadyJunon]

According to WWD, the collection was inspired by Hubert de Givenchy (the person).

FASHION SHOW REVIEWS
Givenchy Men’s Fall 2024

The house called the collection "a study of the new gentleman inspired by the character of Hubert de Givenchy."

By MILES SOCHA
JANUARY 17, 2024 12:34PM EST

At Givenchy’s historic George V couture salons on Wednesday, Ruinart Champagne in fancy crystal coupes was ferried on silver trays as piano music tinkled. Tables were laden with madeleines and mini lobster sandwiches from the Ritz hotel, and small black serviettes with 4G logos were proffered with silver tongs.

Less than three weeks after creative director Matthew M. Williams exited the brand, Givenchy returned home — and to the aristocratic atmosphere that has long hovered around it. Gone were the 3D-printed sneakers, the distressed jeans, the meaty bombers and the logo jerseys that were among the elements Williams had brought to the brand over his three-year tenure.

In their place came a little bit of everything, including colorful suits and trim coats reminiscent of the Ozwald Boateng era, quirky silk babushkas printed with a variety of hairstyles, and chandelier prints splashed on silk shirts and heavily embroidered jeans.

What a sight seeing the models file up and down the grand staircase with its elaborate wrought-iron bannister, parading slowly like the high-fashion shows of yore. Yet the spectacle had a grandeur that the clothes didn’t quite live up to.

Attributed to a design team, the collection riffed on couture smocks, tuxedo dressing and luxe casual, and was largely in line with the season’s return to classic menswear. It was “a study of the new gentleman inspired by the character of Hubert de Givenchy,” according to the press notes.

While tailcoats were paired with casual tank tops, the collection had a dressy backbone, with pearl buttons lined up on the back of turtlenecks and Henley sweaters, and stiff horsehair embellishing coats and pants for a faun effect.

Occasionally the seriousness was interrupted with humor, like those babushkas, and a number of exits, including a silvery parka bearing an archival cat print, its yellow eyes staring out.

Awaiting the appointment of a new creative director, this placeholder collection did its job in keeping the flame alive for an esteemed heritage brand, while leaving the slate clean for a new vision.

Source: WWD

 

[jeanclaude]

God...it is so depressing I can even feel the "75% off" discount tags while looking at the collection.

Also...inspired by Hubert de Givenchy?? Where?? I can´t remember him dressed as a drag lite version of a babushka!

 

[Olaffo]

According to WWD, the collection was inspired by Hubert de Givenchy (the person).

According to me, it's a sheer bullsh*t.

The entire studio should be sacked for that collection. If combined work of several people brings this atrocity to the table no wonder why they don't want to promote internally. I hope they'll find someone with strong and adequate POV so we can just move on.

 

[lookatme]

There must be something really wrong with me, but I find this, if not good, less repulsive than anything MW ever did at the house. It looks like something CWK might have done in menswear.

Ok, honestly same.

Now - it’s far from perfect and I would edit out a good third of it.

However, I kind of like that it’s something different in attitude from everything else we get from menswear these days.

I like that there’s something kind of intimate in the collection, not just the presentation, but the actual clothes feel a bit closer to the human touch. They don’t look wildly corporate and polished, while also not looking like a queer student project from NYFW.

Is this enough to steer Givenchy in the right direction? No. But…is there a flicker of something potentially interesting? Possibly.

 

[LadyJunon]

They don’t look wildly corporate and polished, while also not looking like a queer student project from NYFW.

The dichotomy of today's industry.

 

[Constructionist]

Last 4 looks minus the babushka shawl were not too bad.

That's all the compliments I have to give.

 

[kasper!]

I am a huge fan of this salon setting, which feels very Stefano Pilati for YSL circa 2010 for me...

 

[Cocteau Stone]

It doesn't reek of hypebeast which is a nice change. And the silhouettes aren't a huge swarm of poorly cut fabrics so they feel a little more "real" because they're closer to the body.

I can't help but feel this all looks really sickly in the end. Like a mangey pet waiting to collapse on your doorstep. The gloves also look like over stretched foreskins.

 

[Alquimista]

Jesus, there is not a single drop of masculinity here, so unsexy.

 

[Lola701]

According to WWD, the collection was inspired by Hubert de Givenchy (the person).

Source: WWD

Thank god he is not with us to see the horror made on his name.
If at least the fit was good…

I am a huge fan of this salon setting, which feels very Stefano Pilati for YSL circa 2010 for me...

Fall 2011 right? A master piece! My best friend bought a whole silhouette, and probably some of the best derby and boots!

 

[bennyboy]

well I love some details

 

[Darko]

Babushka scarves on those models
WTF 🤔

 

[CommanderTMugler]

I’m interested in the polka doted orange shirt the man with the leather jacket is wearing.

 

[RaisinBoy]

This is what happens when theres no designer in sight. And the designer that just left was mediocre. And the stylist they hired to style the show is untalented to the max. Lol

 

[Lola701]

This is what happens when theres no designer in sight. And the designer that just left was mediocre. And the stylist they hired to style the show is untalented to the max. Lol

Mess on top of mess on top of mess…

 

[VogueDisciple93]

THROW IT ALL AWAY!

 

[LadyJunon]

THROW IT ALL AWAY!

The design team behind it too.

 

[tourbillions]

even if it was just a design team making this... how can the construction be so bad? not like they are all working for a high street brand

 

[blackcherrified]

It’s not that bad. It’s very wearable. It’s something you already have in your wardrobe. It’s something that Zara can copy in a heartbeat…

It’s just… mediocre.

I like the first look though, and that’s all.