Givenchy Menswear Pre-Spring 2014

[Phuel]

But this sells.

And the HC seems to be doing well for them the way it is now. We may not like it-- but we're not his clientele. It may be recycled designs from the past, but that's what his clientele wants, apparently. And the essence of haute couture is in part, a collaboration of designer and clientele. We may not like the recycled bits, but if his multi-millionaire clientele digs it, then that's what he's bound to give them. Of course, I'm giving Riccardo the benefit of the doubt that he's collaborating with his clientele, and these recycled, cobbled-together designs are the result of these collaborations. None of us will know, since we weren't there-- and unless someone here is a clientele of his, we can only assume the collaborative process exists.

From a business perspective, this approach to haute couture seems completely practical, and profitable: Present a portfolio of all the haute couture designs in his/their archives, and the clientele picks and chooses parts from the designs she likes best, and a look is born. It's much more cost-effective than to produce a full collection every couture season and hope the clientele likes it. It may not be an artistic, creative and visionary move, but in these recessionary economic climates, it just doesn't seem a smart move to produce such expensive pieces and present a show. Even a couture show to move the perfumes and bags isn't necessary now that his superstar BFF (and clientele) will be more than enough to promote anything the bosses may want.

Back to the menswear: I think his handlers are very happy with their profits from those graphic tees. And if someone wants formality and adult clothes, there are always the suits-- simple, but carries the coveted Givenchy label. They're profiting without the need for diffusion lines. Riccardo's just doing what makes them happy, and strengthening his place in the high fashion hierarchy with all his superstar BBFs wearing his designs.

Anyway, I hope this commercial phase/era of Givenchy?Tisci will pass and he'll be back to his luxurious goth-y old self soon with Mariacarla by his side.

 

[jeremydante]

definitely feel what others are saying of tisci's creative lull; but i've learned NOT to count him out at any point. i think this is the tide with designers, they can't create great design EVERY season, they have to create that differentiation & lean back a little. it was the same with galliano, when he was at dior, he created so much great work that it almost seemed rested in greatness. the more we demand of a designer, the higher we raise the bar in terms of expectation- we expect his stuff to be super great, and when it's just great (as oppose to super great) we're all like, "what's wrong" - nothing's wrong, it's just a natural evolution. plus, it's pre-sesaon, isn't there always quite a lull during this in-between time?

 

[Littleathquakes]

I'm just afraid the lull becomes D&G'ish with that Sicilian theme that's been going on for years now. You can't even count them by seasons anymore since it's dragged on for so long.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ I suspect Riccardo's repetitive designs for Givenchy are more at the demands of his LVMH bosses than his own choice. He/they are hitting pay dirt with all these instant-status prints and graphic tees so they're sticking with it. I would too if I were him/them.

Riccardo has to move on from this very youth-oriented look much much sooner than Dolce are able to cling on to the lacey "Sicilian" look. And I suspect he will, once the kids move on from the status-prints and status-tees. I also suspect he may even move on from Givenchy once the label becomes stale and onto his own label.

As for the Dolce comparison, I feel it's a tad different: Dolce isn't answerable to any huge conglomerate as they own their label. Their lazy, repetitive designs-- 10 years running now, really deserves the description of "resting on your laurels". And as for their Sicilian theme: Dolce's Sicilian vibe/inspiration/tribute, whatever you want to call it, was there from the very start of their career. That was their identity: At their best--from the start of the 90s to the early 2000s, they were always able to inject something new, fresh alongside their Sicilian identity. I never thought of it as a theme. It's become so very bland now no doubt, and they've become so huge that they'll sell on their name alone. They've become so adamant I don't think even they care as long as the dollars keep rolling in.