Gucci F/W 2025.26 Milan

Another boring minimal collection. Not even a single must-have look or pieces for both mens or women’s. Can’t Kering understand that there’s no point in trying to make Gucci minimal and looking like any other brand?

As a mega brand that had its own identity and didn’t follow trends, it’s like telling Ferrari to start selling electric family cars just because there’s a lot of them on the road.

Also, everyone says bring back Tom Ford Gucci but they have no clue that it won’t attract Gen Z or Chinese customers back to Gucci. Stores in China noted many clients who haven’t shopped since Sabato’s debut have been anticipating Alessandro’s return or possibly Hedi’s appointment. Since there is nothing desirable or must-have pieces with the “new” Gucci, said customers voiced online that they are somewhat thankful getting to save money during this economic downturn.

God help the stores that need to sell these before the new Creative Director’s collection comes out, if whomever, makes any impact at all.
 
I Will take the interim design team collection by Davide Renne from 2 years ago over this. Those lace v neckline tops paired with pencil skirts are sono Vaccarello Saint Laurent circa 2023...the whole presentation felt very Vaccarello Saint Laurent too: big space, velvet curtains and lights games. It's obvious Bellettini pushed Cantino to try to replicate the Saint Laurent formula, starting from the same outfit shown multiple times with slight alterations. It's better than Sabato's debut for sure but I still think the Cruise 2024 show by Davide Renne in Seoul was the right directions for the brand: strong point of view a la Alessandro Michele without his gimmicks.
Now you mention it, the presentation is very Vaccarello-coded. The green curtains, rim lighting and the circular layout are pulled directly from their FW24 show. That said, the vision presented is nowhere near as glamourous and high octane as it is at Saint Laurent.
 
Let's be honest, you cannot fire the CD and come up with a new vision and direction for a megabrand in ten days.
This is Sabato, probably edited and spiced up, but it is him.
They fired him when they did because they had to make clear to the shareholders that they were "working on it".

The womens are better accessoirized than before.The bags look mostly good. The glasses are a total yes. The scarves wrapped around the head were a nice touch. The models are walking in high heels instead of chunky platforms.
All this helps to elevate a collection that, in itself, is okish, but presented like this, verges on the cool (still missing something to be really there).
The mens, average, not catastrophical, but not making you needing to go immediately to the store.
The cycle is closed, I hope to see the new Gucci in the next show.
 
It feels like they took Sabato's work and had the design team add in some Alessandro Michele-isms. It's definitely fine—perhaps inoffensive is the word to describe the aesthetic, but in principle it's as if what Gucci wants is closer to AI than to an actual creative director. I feel as though we're approaching a luxury version of design by algorithm, qua Shein. Instead of coherent propositions, it's a sort of collage of elements grounded in what has sold well/succeeded under both Alessandro Michele and Sabato de Sarno.
 

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