Gucci Menswear F/W 2024.25 Milan

[LadyJunon]

 

[susseinmcswanny]

They're really using the same song Margiela used in their last show?

 

[LadyJunon]

These cheap-@ss hoes at Kering are really saying "Ancora" by reusing the soundtrack from the previous show, this time with a bit of the gender dysphoria from Margiela's last show.

 

[perhydrol]

Nobody asked for Ancora for men! And the audacity to repeat some of the looks from ss24 as if there was anything good to copy and paste... It's not enough to create a consistent creative direction and they know it, especially now, when Gucci has been all over the place thanks to Sabato, and their campaigns don't make any sense when placed next to each other.

 

[lhhbl]

they used the same song from the Gucci Women's show (Ancora) and he literally admitted the copy + paste to the Men's collection. The clothes are veeeery similar. The shoes are nice and some coats too.

somehow I think it was slightly better than the Women's but it's overall very lackluster and bland. There's no emotion, no nuance, no real inspiration. I really hope he treated this first collections as a palatte cleanser and has more up his sleeves for what's to come but I'm becoming hopeless

 

[Olaffo]

With Gucci you either go hard or go home - here we can see nothing was taken seriously and all possible corners were cut. The repetition of soundtrack and venue is annoying but there aren't first to do that and not the last, I guess that gives the illusion of cohesive seasionality or any other bullsh*t. What strikes me here is the outrageous laziness, there is not a single idea where it should go or what kind of men Gucci offers in 2024. Silhouettes were literally a copy of womenswear not even adjusted or changed to show some research or "going extra mile". That wasn't a show - that was a merch displayed on walking, human models. I think that's the last show for me from Gucci for a while - can't stand that pompous, self - congratulating tone of Sarno and his "vision" for Gucci (Polish prime minister Donald Tusk once said: "If you have vision, you should contact specialist" and I'm finding it applicable here).

 

[ah ah]

No vision. Ancora.

 

[yslforever]

Before this show I gave De Sarno the benefit of the doubt: I thought maybe he was a menswear designer struggling to adapt to womenswear but now I know he struggles at both ...
It's giving Kim Jones/Pier Paolo Piccioli/Raf on a lazy day.

 

[Lola701]

I don’t mind repetition. After all, Tom and Frida’s collections were sometimes just plainly womenswear translated in menswear or vice versa or complementary. I don’t mind the soundtrack too.
My issue has more to do with seasonality.

They will literally sell the same pieces for a whole year. SS2024 womenswear is hitting the stores in 1-2 months and the early drops from this collection comes in late August.

I think the clothes were fine. I loved the twin-sets, the knitwear and some of the outerwear. I think the shoes were hideous but I know a lot of men will wear them. Platform loafers for men is more ASOS than Gucci for me…
I liked the messenger bag that looks like an old Gucci design. I don’t think men are that interested in wearing a Jackie bag.

I think it was better than the SS womenswear but it does feel like it lacks vision. @yslforever talked about Kim Jones and Pierpaolo and this is totally it. Those are clothes, trendy clothes that are styled together to create a collection. There’s no vision of men, no real sense of style. There were some Prada moments but without the flair of Miuccia.
It’s really puzzling to identify the aesthetic of Ancora man.

It’s not a letdown because nobody expected anything but it’s far from being a hit!

 

[susseinmcswanny]

I know this is supposed to be Mcdonald's of fashion like Veuve is to champagne, but I still think somebody F'd up big time. Whoever made that post saying all the new creative directors look the same was 100% right. They may put on their little ever so slightly tinted lenses to color in the for the brand they're working for but they are all the same. They all look the same and they all hang out with the same people and have the same "beliefs" if you could even call it that. And yes people that look the same gravitate towards one another and I don't think that's necessarily bad per se, but putting those people in charge to lead with "vision" that have literally NO interest in anything besides their own narcissism in the most boring brain mush way possible is just plain STUPID from a creative!! standpoint. Whoever is in charge is a f*cking moron.

 

[tourbillions]

i feel like he is more confident designing for men but as everyone says, his gucci men and women just blend with zara, massimo dutti, and cos crowd. Its like finding loro piana for the first time and wondering why such basic clothes cost so much.

Anyway this is obviously another Ancora collection, ill wait for Gucci next season or few seasons from now.

 

[THD96]

Just like the womenswear show, I enjoyed the soundtrack more than I enjoyed the clothes. But I do have to say I like this collection more than his women's debut.

At least with this collection, I can see Sabato is a little more comfortable in his position and I hope for his sake he better come up with something more outrageous next season.

I like the laid-back tailoring and some of the outerwear, especially the trenchcoats is stunning.
But none of the accessories are wow or appealing to me.
And a different stylist with a more dynamic approach can spice up these clothes.

I don’t mind repetition. After all, Tom and Frida’s collections were sometimes just plainly womenswear translated in menswear or vice versa or complementary. I don’t mind the soundtrack too.
My issue has more to do with seasonality.

I hope Sabato understands the difference between being consistent with your vision and being one dimension. Tom is being very consistent and cohesive with his vision of Gucci but it was never one note. His clothes have always been more than just sex and red carpet. You can look hot in the club with TF and you can mean business in the corporate with TF. With Sabato Ancora, I feel like it's just elevated everyday clothes for anyone who can afford it.

 

[GivenchyHomme]

It’s not terrible. It’s a passable, wearable collection. It does however, reek of Dior Homme, the suits in particular. Unfortunately just good enough isn’t going to cut it in the long run. He has now had his two pallet cleaner collections and now it’s time to see what he’s truly made of.

 

[IndigoHomme]

I kinda like some clothes, i'm here for the coats

 

[avonlea002]

It's not bad, much more convincing than the women's collection. Sabato is a merchandise designer, the product is both wearable and well made but devoid of any personality. He needs a strong stylist who knows their tricks and can elevate the whole thing, same goes for the campaign photographer.

 

[IloveDiorHomme]

"Hey SIRI, design me a boring merchandised oriented collection with no soul, poetry or substance".

 

[KoV]

I like the product, it’s just the lack of …. brand world-building that bothers me. Kind of the reverse of my problem with Gucci over the past several years. Strong, cohesive, interesting campaigns and visuals but I didn’t care for the wares. I hope and think everything will get stronger season by season.

 

[GivenchyHomme]

Nobody asked for Ancora for men! And the audacity to repeat some of the looks from ss24 as if there was anything good to copy and paste... It's not enough to create a consistent creative direction and they know it, especially now, when Gucci has been all over the place thanks to Sabato, and their campaigns don't make any sense when placed next to each other.

It’s going to look like Groundhog Day when the ads for this collection are released in the fall. Does he think that customers are not going to notice the similarities? I don’t care for co-ed shows, but if you’re going to basically copy and paste a collection then they should have been presented and photographed together at the same time. It really comes off as arrogant and lazy to repeat everything so shamelessly. I have never seen something like that before, It’s very off putting.

 

[NoInvite]

"Let's put the women's summer collection into the next men's fall collection" - Sabato

 

[vogue28]

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