Gucci Resort 2023 Puglia

[vogue28]

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[Lola701]

I find this super boring. It’s big, it’s excessive but because it’s that way everytime for how many seasons now, it really feels tired now. I like the 1999 embroidered jeans tho.

I feel like the best things about Michele’s collections apart from tailoring, are his re-release of Tom’s past hits…

 

[susseinmcswanny]

I like the red/white striped knit dress in the Mathilde Willink look lol. I feel like she and Fong Leng have continually been a huge inspo for Michele.

But yeah anyways tired.

 

[jeanclaude]

Let´s remember Tom´s S/S 1999 collection. Ahh...those were the days!!



I don´t feel like writing about this collection from Michele.

 

[Frederic01]

There's a lot more of a focus on tailoring and evening wear compared to his previous offering which was basically all sportswear Adidas, so bravo on that point. Some of those gowns were spectacular IMO. The faux-fur pieces also looked quite impressive in terms of design and I am usually not a fan of it, and the references to historic costumes were interesting too. Very modern but also very retro-modern in a way. I enjoyed watching the show personally.

There's a lot of discussion on this forum about certain designers being repetitive, like Alessandro Michele, but then I pose the question, which designers aren't? Every designer / house has a specific aesthetic that runs its aesthetic course eventually. We are currently at that stage in the fashion world. I can't see even one original thinker. Honestly.

The reason for that is a) there are too many designers and houses now and the conditions to create some genuinely new are particularly tough, and b) there is no room for bold, original ideas due to financial pressures from these conglomerates. Even those small, niche designers who have "original" ideas, after it's received well once, they repeat it endlessly. I'm thinking Nensi Dojaka, Richard Quinn, Craig Green, etc, etc. To be original these days, you have to have the attitude of the punks, that whole "destabilise the system" attitude, but unfortunately due to the hyper-commercialised and business-driven world we live in, I don't see that happening any time soon.

So amidst this stagnant design culture, I will take a collection like this from Michele over most of what is being produced at the moment. At least it was something completely dipped in fantasy and historicism. Unlike that shockingly boring and appalling Dior collection with skateboarders for example. LOL.

 

[Fulton St Critique]

There's a lot of discussion on this forum about certain designers being repetitive, like Alessandro Michele, but then I pose the question, which designers aren't? Every designer / house has a specific aesthetic that runs its aesthetic course eventually. We are currently at that stage in the fashion world. I can't see even one original thinker. Honestly.

@Frederic01 I see your point, but I am not sure it is about an aesthetic running its course as so much as it is we should allow the new generation of designers the time to grow upon their aesthetic. At least for me, that is where my interest continues to lie in fashion.

I think we “fashion heads” are so immune to the designers currently operating these large fashion houses that each season appears to blend into the next. So much so that it almost becomes unrecognizable. I often think about this. In a decade will we be conversing about fashion in the same way the older generation does? For example, @jeanclaude typically references previous collections as shown above with admiration. I seriously doubt any of us in the year 2040 will look back and speak on the beauty and interesting moments of the “Gucci Spring Summer 2018” collection, or “Saint Laurent Fall Winter 2017” in the same way fashion historians do in this day.

And though that is fine, it is sad in a way that the current talent pool is so shallow. Granted, history has been full of designers whose names remain forgotten, though it seems so many of the individuals “running” the fashionscape today will too be forgotten in the next decade or so.

One of my favorite up-and-comers right now is the French label Egonlab. Is there work 100% original in nature? Not necessarily, I am sure their latest collection has some hint of *Fashion Designer* Fall/Winter 19** in it, however, I enjoy watching their progress and brand building just as much as I enjoy watching Anthony Vaccarello expound upon YSL’s archive.

We are always, always in search of newness instead of giving designers time for essential growth and development.

 

[disco54]

The styling as usual is really bad , Alessandro is very talented, esp when he does those 40s style suits and dresses, but the overkill with clownish prints , and piled on accessories, ruins everything, then it looks very schizophrenic. If he focussed on those 40s inspired looks and tailoring with jewel tones and soothing colors it would look great. At this point though these shows have turned into stale reruns. Though the bar is so low now, I would still take this over Virginie's Chanel or MG's Dior which have absolutely nothing good to offer now besides good perfumes and bags.

 

[TianCouture]

damn he rly has a thing for big boobies
stand out look was lana bringing back paradise-era face/hair. thats all

 

[kasper!]

He should design a minimalism collection like the way John did 2006S/S Dior collection...

AHH I miss 2006, best year in fashion.

 

[YohjiAddict]

It’s quite a bit better than I anticipated, knowing how much I dislike his vision, but his styling tricks feel very played out by now.

I really like the blue velvet dress, the pink lingerie-inspired dress and the ivory cape with a cinched waist…plus a few other looks. Quite a surprise to be honest.

 

[THD96]

It takes too much effort to look through Michele's Gucci nowadays, because it's too long, without anything new or fun to capture your attention.

No cohesion or streamlining idea whatsoever. A condensed and tightly edited collection can help him in a long run.

All I can see from this show is a parade of merchandise. I mean there is no reason for this show to have 101 looks other than to present as much merchandise as possible in one show.

He can sprinkle some TF Gucci here and there but it won't save his collection.

 

[bc collector]

I'm thinking Nensi Dojaka, Richard Quinn, Craig Green,

It's not like we expect designers to start from a clean slate every season, though. It's enough if they add new elements with each collection, expand their vocabulary, experiment with new ideas (this is particularly true for Craig Green, even when his experiments feel a tad too conceptual for my taste). I don't see any of this in Michele.
Maybe because his whole vision is based on repechages and decorative galore, you have the feeling that there has been very little evolution in his design practice, it's like an endless parade of stuff, where the message is always the same: everything goes with everything and you, poor little thing, never have to worry to feel different. Ok, we got that, and then?

 

[Lola701]

There's a lot more of a focus on tailoring and evening wear compared to his previous offering which was basically all sportswear Adidas, so bravo on that point. Some of those gowns were spectacular IMO. The faux-fur pieces also looked quite impressive in terms of design and I am usually not a fan of it, and the references to historic costumes were interesting too. Very modern but also very retro-modern in a way. I enjoyed watching the show personally.

There's a lot of discussion on this forum about certain designers being repetitive, like Alessandro Michele, but then I pose the question, which designers aren't? Every designer / house has a specific aesthetic that runs its aesthetic course eventually. We are currently at that stage in the fashion world. I can't see even one original thinker. Honestly.

The reason for that is a) there are too many designers and houses now and the conditions to create some genuinely new are particularly tough, and b) there is no room for bold, original ideas due to financial pressures from these conglomerates. Even those small, niche designers who have "original" ideas, after it's received well once, they repeat it endlessly. I'm thinking Nensi Dojaka, Richard Quinn, Craig Green, etc, etc. To be original these days, you have to have the attitude of the punks, that whole "destabilise the system" attitude, but unfortunately due to the hyper-commercialised and business-driven world we live in, I don't see that happening any time soon.

So amidst this stagnant design culture, I will take a collection like this from Michele over most of what is being produced at the moment. At least it was something completely dipped in fantasy and historicism. Unlike that shockingly boring and appalling Dior collection with skateboarders for example. LOL.

There’s a difference between having an aesthetic and the feeling of being repetitive.

Junya Watanabe has a strong aesthetic and some would say that his work is repetitive because it all comes around the same obsessions but the collections are shown in a way that makes them distinctive to each other.

With Michele, the feeling of being repetitive kinda takes over everything. The reality is that looks from looks, if we want to compare each seasons, you would probably wouldn’t find the same pieces twice. But his collections all consists of that collage of the 60’s, 40’s, 80’s, 70’s everytime! I’m always attracted to the simpler pieces like the black velvet jumpsuit here because it’s the only time my eyes rest.

It’s not like he cannot do a streamlined show…His first year at Gucci was very focused.

 

[LadyJunon]

Honestly, seeing the first face struggle to walk down the stairs in her lingerie-cape-dress thing was the highlight of the show.

 

[LadyJunon]

Honestly, seeing the first face struggle to walk down the stairs in her lingerie-cape-dress thing was the highlight of the show.

Also, I wouldn't be mad if he was the CD of Schiaparelli. His dresses and suiting are gorgeous, but they're overshadowed by the styling and the sheer number of looks each show.

 

[WAVES]

as always, it’s as if a London thrift store did a show.
the styling is horrendous as per usual - when you go to a Gucci store everything is very well displayed, it looks expensive and glamorous. as it should.

I actually like the 70’s pieces and the large brimmed hats.

surprisingly, not a lot of logos this time (apart from the bags). I guess Gucci can go easy now that the logomania is well established for them and every other brand succumbed to this trickery.