The problem is that Helmut Lang as a brand had been re-positioned entirely as a 'contemporary brand', not a high-end designer label as it used to be when Helmut himself was still designing the collection... In my opinion, minimalistic design without appropriate, luxe fabrics is just bland clothing. This is an excuse for them just to tap on the drape-y jersey part, the suiting and the sportswear in entry-price cotton fabrics. Telling from the actual product, this line is looking terribly 'department store'-like.
Helmut himself took these items, twisted them and evaluated these basics in an unseen luxurious interpretation of what a modern wardrobe looks like and added his whimsical details that would just set the right difference between a copy/paste inspiration and an original design.