Hermès Menswear S/S 2023 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[jeanclaude]

Everything here looks so...unfuckable!

 

[eugenius]

Everything here looks so...unfuckable!

unfuckwithable. Fixed.

 

[jeanclaude]

unfuckwithable. Fixed.

Thank you for showing me that word (I did not know it)...but I am gonna stay with "unfuckable" here...

 

[THD96]

It's a lot younger and trendier than her usually offering. There are a few things that annoy me but overall it's still a good collection for Hermes.

I hate the seahorse prints and the bucket hats that almost every brand had are tiring at this point.

But the sweaters are good and the colors are eye-catching.

I like it. It looks younger without feeling desperate chasing the Gen-Z. It still makes sense for the usual Hermes clients.

 

[Frederic01]

This is shockingly bad. Some of those looks are such bad taste, I can't believe my eyes. A vinyl looking bucket hat paired with a vinyl hiking jacket and some kind of weird scuba-neoprene sandals, on dear. And that tacky and dated seahorse print should have never seen the light of day.

Hermes Menswear continues to be a tragic disappointment. These clothes are genuinely sub par for a brand like Hermes, which has supposedly some of the best craftsmanship and savoir-faire in the world.

And I'm sorry to say but she just does not have a sophisticated and refined eye like you would expect of a designer working at that level and after so many years. These clothes are just very basic and very weak in terms of design, let's be honest.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

That opening sweater looks like it is merch for some late 80s-early 90s Australian sunblock brand that life guards would have to wear during colder seasons. That is all I have to say on this.

 

[Norden]

I also don’t like it. It has this same ‘oldness’ that Thomas Maier used to have at bv.

The use of color is also not successful. She tries very hard to introduce some on trend blue and purples, but forgets to offset them with another color. You could argue that this is her bad taste, for colors like this you need an eye (see Paul smith).

the collection also reads as a bit too all over the place when it comes to age, Hermes obviously sell to a more mature traveling customer, but some of these looks read almost too young, in a very naive way.

one of the worst offenses are those airport duty free sneakers.

she probably knows her customer super well, but it’s giving me cp company vibes

 

[GivenchyHomme]

Less is more for her. Rather than attempting to play with cheap prints and garish colors, she should be experimenting with fabrications and construction. No one expects this kind of collection for Hermes.

 

[Lola701]

The last look is so good! I find it quite sexy!
Perfect casting and styling.

It’s a great collection overall. The soft tailoring, the neutral palette are great. Where she lost me is with the prints, brighter colors and the technical fabrics. The Hermes customer would probably wear it in a very classic way and they might look dated/ridiculous.

 

[WAVES]

I like some looks and it’s clearly directed to an younger clientele…

also agree, stop with the bucket hats everybody has them already.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

It's hard for anyone to comment on craftsmanship and details without seeing the clothes in person. You might not like the aesthetic, but Veronique Nichanian's know-how is without equal. She's been designing Hermes for 34 years. Abilities are honed with time, not dulled. I can assure you, these clothes are exquisitely made.

That said, I think the prints make this look a lot worse than it is. It's a nice, light, crisp collection albeit a bit boring. But I've always found Hermes menswear to be a bit boring.

Remember, this is luxury. Not fashion. I'd happily wear it over Kiton, Brunello Cucinelli, or Loro Piana.

 

[Nomar]

Silvia does this but so much better.

 

[Lola701]

Silvia does this but so much better.

Silvia does maybe more fashion oriented pieces but she hasn’t succeed in creating an identity for Fendi menswear.

I think that if Veronique collaborated with the artists who draws the silk scarves, it could have gave an even stronger stamp to her work.

Fendi menswear relies too much on logos.

 

[GivenchyAddict]

^I prefer Beat's styling over Ganio's one