Hermès S/S 2016 Paris

[dior_couture1245]

^^Exactly.

You know, I really think we're reaching a breaking point in fashion...it's seems clear that for insiders and casual viewers alike, we are hitting an exhaustion of information overload during fashion week.

And I think what is already happening, and hopefully continue to happen, is to allow for and encourage designers to be creative with the way choose to present their collections. A runway show is no longer a be all end all. And in a case like this Hermes show, this would be so much better as an intimate client showroom presentation, or at the most a lookbook or concept video...but why waste everyone's time and energy to put on this show?

The fashion show will never die - it's too exciting and powerful of an experience live to do away with it - and there are still designers who know how to use it to its full effect (Marc Jacobs, for example), but at this point designers need to be realistic about who they are, what they stand for and how best to present themselves...and maybe at this point, a proper show isn't doing any favors for certain brands or designers.

 

[adrienpegon]

^^I totally agree.

This show was beyond boring, and the pieces Nadege Vanhee-Cybulski designed are lame ( compared to what Hermes offered before ). Fashion shows are useful when the staging is impressive and the collection itselfs is impressive too, but this was not the case of Hermes S/S16. As dior couture1245 said, it would have been better if the clothes were only shown in a showroom for buyers and customers. The show is on Youtube, the looks are everywhere on the Internet and everyone looks at the clothes, so if you are going to present something which only suits the typical Hermes customer; make it private because you are conveying a disappointing image of your brand and yourself as a designer. Most fashion insiders were disappointed and I'm pretty sure Vanhee-Cybulski knew they would.

Nadege is not Galliano or McQueen, and to be honest she fails at copying Lemaire or Nichanian ( Hermes S/S16 menswear was pretty great for me ), so investing money and time for a show just because most brands do it is pretty dumb... Hermes is famous enough not to suffer of showcasing its collections only in showrooms, and as someone who worked in showrooms and also backstages during some fashion shows, buyers are way happier relaxed in the intimacy of a showroom...
It does not only apply to Hermes, I think brands like Jil Sander, Céline or Marni, those with a minimal aesthetic which usually make basic stages for the shows should adopt the showroom-only attitude.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ Marni and Celine, as modern and minimal as they may be, still retain a sense of graphic sharpness, a sense of heightened style in which the designs are presented, so that, in most cases, women wouldn’t really wear the looks as is. So they’re still interesting as a proposal of styling, even if they may present in a sparse environment, or has been in Marni’s case in the past, a cookbook offering. That guy at Jil Sander is horrible though: Sewing store 80s Vogue-pattern horrible. So unlike Nadege’s Hermes, I can’t see this new Jil Sander working in any presentation or environment LOL

^^Exactly.

You know, I really think we're reaching a breaking point in fashion...it's seems clear that for insiders and casual viewers alike, we are hitting an exhaustion of information overload during fashion week.

And I think what is already happening, and hopefully continue to happen, is to allow for and encourage designers to be creative with the way choose to present their collections. A runway show is no longer a be all end all. And in a case like this Hermes show, this would be so much better as an intimate client showroom presentation, or at the most a lookbook or concept video...but why waste everyone's time and energy to put on this show?

The fashion show will never die - it's too exciting and powerful of an experience live to do away with it - and there are still designers who know how to use it to its full effect (Marc Jacobs, for example), but at this point designers need to be realistic about who they are, what they stand for and how best to present themselves...and maybe at this point, a proper show isn't doing any favors for certain brands or designers.

Yes, I think there is a strong minority— as consumers, observers, industry and creative professionals, and just high fashion fans, who are fed up with the manners in which hig fashion is being churned out and treared like fast fashion. There’s no personality it seems, just a big, empty cold production. Social media/bloggers, street fashions’ disposable attitude towards high fashion— and their general lack interest for substance and ltaching onto trend-chasing and celebrities approach are hopefully seeing the end of their reigns as well.

I do like the individual pieces here. I can only imagine just how luxurious these pieces must look and feel close-up. And had it been presented in an intimate—salon, studio-setting that evocks the type of personable environment of 1950s couture events, I think this would have set the right mood for Hermes. As is, it’s so… department-store lookig: The natural, fresh and clean look with the very practical styling just doesn’t work for the ultimate name in high fashion luxe— and translates even worse when viewed online. I totally get the generic look some are feeling when seeing all this.