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There were exactly two black pantsuits on the Boss runway. The first was a faultless one-button, with white contrast seaming. The second was a two-button, and it was on the back of designer Jason Wu when he came out for his bow. Boss is a German menswear brand famous around the world for its tailoring. Wu hasn't thrown out that formula entirely, but in his confident second runway season at the company, he was definitely thinking beyond the basic two-piecer.
Still, the masculine codes of the brand weren't far from his mind. Men's shirting played a major role—see campaign girl Edie Campbell's beaded collar button-down and beaded skirt, and the crisp white shirtdresses over which Wu layered graphic lace pencil skirts. Like last time, the silhouettes were clean and sharp, with strong geometric accents and neatly nipped waists. The news was in the raised hemlines; flaring A-line skirts hovered several inches above the knee rather than below it this season, keying a flirtier, more playful sensibility.
Backstage Wu said, "My tenure at Boss is about changing people's perceptions and expanding the horizon of what the brand can be." He did that for Spring by injecting more of his own designer codes into the mix, and, surprise, eveningwear was the star performer. Keeping the silhouette simple and close to the body—you can't go wrong with a sheath—Wu had fun with materials. Pleated tech tulle fabric suspended from a molded felt bustier looked nearly weightless. A white dress with gleaming black ladder embroidery struck a similarly light note. It's destined for the red carpet. Those images will go round the world, driving women into Hugo Boss stores. If they don't spring for the dress, Wu's faultless pantsuit might tempt them. All told, a savvy second chapter.