Is the fashion world fair to young designers?

[thejarc]

Well, I have been heavily inspired by some threads here on tfs ('Do you think fashion critics write something real instead of compliments?', 'Carré Otis Finally Names Her Alleged r*pist') to think about the unfairness of the fashion world and I have noticed that that young designers are rarely supported. Big designers are praised for ugly and boring collections (Prada, Balenciaga) young, innovative designers are mostly ignored. The big houses recruit and befriend successful stylists (Emmanuelle Alt, Katie Grand and Marie-Amelie Sauvé come to my mind) to expose their labels in big magazines. There is no other why I could explain the raise of Balmain, a label that hasn't been innovative, but rather trashy in recent years.

Also I started looking at Magazines more closely. The big advertisers are usually the ones that get editorial exposure (Lanvin, Céline, Dolce & Gabbana, Givenchy) although they don't necessarily showed the strongest collections. Even if there are young designers that start getting exposure, those are often the ones with massive money to support them (Pedro Lourenco, Alexander Wang) finding their way into the fashion world. Also in Haute Couture editorials usually the big houses (Elie Saab, Gaultier, Dior (even with an extremely bad collection) or Givenchy) and not new but very talented designers, such as Yiqin Yin, who produce extremely beautiful collections but do not get noticed.

Young designers are the future, the ones that bring excitement to an industry that is populated by corrupt, fake *******-people (if you think I am a bit hard I would suggest you to spend a day in a young designers showroom and deal with buyers and editors). I would like to hear your opinions on this topic.

 

[NotAModel]

Big designers pay big £££ for ads, magazine's want to keep them sweet. It's unfair but the reality of the fashion magazine industry (at large).

 

[mishahoi]

The magazines must make money. And the readers (90% of consumers) like familiarity. If you are looking for a quick fix, then read more blogs---- they tend to show off the young designers more, I think.

 

[bothsidesnow]

The balance of power in the fashion industry lies with the big fashion houses. Magazines like Harpers and Vogue are merely voices for their brands - particularly those in the LVMH group, the Gucci group, Chanel, and Prada. Magazine editors are hardly concerned with showcasing new designers... their main concern is their job and their job is about raising revenue for their magazine through its sales and advertising.
I agree with mishahoi - blogs might be a better way for new designers to get noticed, but I guess once a blog becomes popular or influential, it becomes a target for more corporate "influence"...

 

[Elle M]

You've raised a very good topic, thejarc ! I think one of the biggest problems would be the direct lack of support from the people who can literally afford to buy anything. I once met a fashion blogger( I can't give names) whose sole purpose of reason was living off her rich parents' money and her blog is mainly about her constant purchases of designer clothes, and hardly ever new underrated ones. If you check out youngbritishdesigners.com you can see so much new and raw talent there is and it's really just not receiving enough support. The people who WANT to support them and love their designs simply can't afford it and the ones that do choose the same old Mulberry bags and Prada shoes.

 

[pen6693]

Does Anna Wintour really help young designers? I know she has the Vogue Fund, but I don't really see any articles of the help. I know designers like Proenza Schouler, Thakoon, and Altuzarra were helped by Anna (I think). Does anyone have any articles from this?

 

[fraiseap]

Interestingly I was one of the photographers at a design awards event in the UK. The awards were set up 4 years ago because the organiser realised that there was a lot of talent in this part of the country but, unless the designers went to London, they ended up working in non-fashion related jobs.

I was amazed at how good the designs were.

Young independent designers seem to have a really hard time getting into the business.

Pictures taken by me

 

[ettebe]

I can speak from personal experience, it is hard if you do not know someone already in the industry or if you are in school and if the teachers like what you can do, they will play favourites. They will help that certain student succeed and get the scholarships to go to a better school, to better their craft. I won't name names. There is some rare occurrence, someone can be somewhere at the right time and everything goes well for them. I've noticed some really talented people stop designing and switch to a different program or whole different career, because no one would give them a chance to design a collection, seeing many brands just want someone to do spec sheets or you have others just taking advantage of internships, hoping with that they can get a job later on in that company.

All in all, the industry not friendly to young designers or to fashion students that do not come out of certain schools, that is the way I see it.

 

[SabrinaNicole]

The magazines must make money. And the readers (90% of consumers) like familiarity. If you are looking for a quick fix, then read more blogs---- they tend to show off the young designers more, I think.

Yes it seems like a designer has to get a lot of press/celebrity clients before anyone gives them any credit.

I like that little Christian Siriano but I his spring collection wasn't even discussed I don't think on this board.

 

[XavierRaphael]

Also, alot of young designers simply arent there yet! I like to believe someone will get the attention they deserve when the time is right. There is atleast one important person out there who will believe in that young designer and offer them a break.

 

[bento]

As an emerging designer I think I've got a fairly good perspective on this topic...

1. There is a LOT of complete rubbish out there. Many, many people like to think of themselves as designers or 'running a fashion label' but when you get down to it they haven't really got a clue.
2. I was once told by a fabric supplier that 90% of labels she talks to that are in their first season aren't around for a second season.
3. When you consider the first two points above, it's barely worth buyers or media paying attention to fledgling labels.

Whilst I couldn't disagree more with XavierRaphael - just because a designer is good it doesn't mean they'll get noticed - I'd say a really good portion of success is just sheer persistance.

That, and a young designer has to be willing to play the game. Or pay someone who will play the game. I struggle with the politics and the game playing of the industry every single day.

-Sam