Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture S/S 2024 Paris

[THD96]

Maybe because I was expecting too much so this kinda underwhelming collection for me. It's still good, but The elements of Gaultier are too lightweight, it just sprinkles here and there throughout the collection. It's very barebone.
Simone's aesthetic has overpowered the spirit of Gaultier, this collection looks like what I imagine her couture line will be.
I wish it was more dynamic, she could incorporate more of his design signature since his vocabulary is so rich, and the sky is the limit when you have access to his archive.

My favorite looks are Look 33 and the final wedding dress.

It's not bad but with the standard set by previous collections, this collection is suddenly not up there yet.

 

[Alquimista]

Lotta mosquito nets, grandma panties and funeral clothes

 

[Alquimista]

But seriously, how shameless you have to be to show such clothes in a parisian fashion show? And call it couture! Her vision of HF is frompy cake dresses, ffs. And I don't give sh*t if she calls gothic, feminist or whatever.

Is Gaultier involved in this?

 

[Kanzai]

But seriously, how shameless you have to be to show such clothes in a parisian fashion show? And call it couture! Her vision of HF is frompy cake dresses, ffs. And I don't give sh*t if she calls gothic, feminist or whatever.

Is Gaultier involved in this?

Gaultier did Gothic aesthetic at a god-like level, i do see some touches from Gaultier in this collection tho. But surely, Simone's still too clumsy to make them clear.

 

[TerraVera]

very girly, very romantic with a strong undercurrent of goth, but oddly also homely and frumpy. i would not have thought it was possible, but hey, stranger things have happened.

following glenn and haider is rough, but simone tried. never been a fan of her aesthetic, but I hoped it would've work out. it just seemed like a long-running ersatz tim burton movie, where helena might wear one or two looks from the collection. there also feels to be a restraint: if simone leaned more into the quirk and unconventional side of JPG, not just the romanticism and gothic flirtations, then her collection would've been more successful.

otherwise the models look like a bunch of british industrial age dolls found in a dilapidated attic, just dusted off for auction, selling at maybe $15-$20 dollars a pop, much below market expectations. sweeny todd might've greatly helped with the cut and precision of the collection.

 

[Olaffo]

Quite infantile version of JPG. Agonising over one trope without actually managing to see the nuances of his aesthetic is not something this project if for. How about we gonna bring Haider back to do Fall Winter this time ?

 

[GivenchyHomme]

Not bad. A little bit repetitive, but it’s well thought out and cohesive. It will have a good run in magazines, but it’s nothing memorable in the long run.

 

[jeanclaude]

Her usual porcelain doll aesthetic mixed with a tiny little bit touch of Gaultier (the corsetry).

Also, what the hell is this fabric turd?? A coat, a dress...or just a literal turd??

 

[Cocteau Stone]

Something is off about this. The robe de style reference is an interesting take on some of Gaultier's codes, but this does look very home sewist. And sorry to say this, too much of this reminds me of not only her work directly (so I don't think she's really pushed herself enough away from herself and her comfort zones) but also it looks a lot like what Rodarte has turned into with their collections. Too much of this falls flat for me, like cosplay for a saccharine dinner party that is Emily in Paris or SATC themed in a place that is too expensive for it's own good.

I’m still waiting for one of these collaborative endeavours to tap into the 2004 couture collections. Gaultier has always been honest about his love and appreciation for the old original guard of couture, and the Vionnet/Gres esque cuts of those shows with the vicious colours and fabric mashing akin to Lacroix doing YSL with a kiss of Worth and Adrian. To see a designer tackle that would be interesting to see, because frankly the corsetry and cone bras as the core reference to Gaultier's work are getting tiring.