Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture S/S 2025 Paris

[jeanclaude]

It´s a walking editorial of vintage Gaultier and McQueen, not a collection.

 

[EDEN21]

Child: Mom I want Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquière!
Mom: We have Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquière at home


700 × 1,050
at home:

 

[EDEN21]

This dress was gorgina though

 

[Kanzai]

Off topic but if you told me that Tyrone Dylan and Ludovic were twins, I wouldn't blink an eye 😔

 

[90sfan]

Tragic

 

[NakedAndAfraid]

I kinda wish he had walked the show himself more. Definitely opened, and closed in the bridal look at least. He should lean into his strengths like modelling.!!!

 

[donyan]

I liked it. It's noting spectacular but what I admire is that he doesn't pretend to be someone he isn't. Ludovic is tacky, vulgar and has a instagram hoe sensibility but he owns it and just has fun.

I wish he did, it would make his work so much more interesting. There's a sense of desperation about his narcissistic tendencies and work that just sucks the fun out of everything he does. The collection is neither good nor bad, it's his joyless persona that makes it irrelevant for me.

 

[Lola701]

I’m really having a hard time seeing all the McQueen and others references you all are seeing guys. I see a raid in Gaultier’s archives and particularly in Couture archives.
And I must say that I’m quite impressed by how he has managed to make those things cohesive on this show.

I wonder if sometimes people believes that McQueen invented fashion.

Gaultier was the original enfant terrible of fashion. And at the end, he probably had the same references because as McQueen grew technically as a designer, he really looked back, challenged himself and things like that.

But maybe Gaultier’s heritage is not that well known actually. He wasn’t a showman in a spectacular level. His shows had a very tongue and cheek allure as opposed to be fierce and provocative like McQueen and Galliano or even Mugler. And Gaultier is still after all a pure product of French Couture tradition. He started at Cardin, went to Patou, was extremely influenced by YSL and Madame Gres.

 

[blueorchid]

I wonder if sometimes people believes that McQueen invented fashion.

I mean judging by the way people constantly compare EVERYTHING to McQueen on tFS, I'd say... yes.

 

[mdmmxl]

I’m really having a hard time seeing all the McQueen and others references you all are seeing guys. I see a raid in Gaultier’s archives and particularly in Couture archives.
And I must say that I’m quite impressed by how he has managed to make those things cohesive on this show.

I wonder if sometimes people believes that McQueen invented fashion.

Gaultier was the original enfant terrible of fashion. And at the end, he probably had the same references because as McQueen grew technically as a designer, he really looked back, challenged himself and things like that.

But maybe Gaultier’s heritage is not that well known actually. He wasn’t a showman in a spectacular level. His shows had a very tongue and cheek allure as opposed to be fierce and provocative like McQueen and Galliano or even Mugler. And Gaultier is still after all a pure product of French Couture tradition. He started at Cardin, went to Patou, was extremely influenced by YSL and Madame Gres.

For me I guess it's mostly in the combination of brown leather with cream/white cotton chiffon that evokes McQueen - he repeated that theme so much, that for me, it is linked with him. But as much as Mugler didn't invent tiny waists with pointed shoulders, McQueen didn't invent this look, that is for sure. Certainly, McQueen copied very much, even his contemporaries like Galliano, who copied Westwood for most of his earlier years pre-Dior (who himself became famous by copying a silhouette and so on...) , and in a way, translating any theme into a collection is somewhat copying. But I feel there should be some consideration made into how much this references are transformed. If you re-do something, you better make it better than the original - If not what's the point. But tbh: I'm also just a hater, so what do I know. I can't stand him, so that mostly informs my opinion on his work.

 

[reese06]

I mean - this is all there is to say...

View attachment 1343151

I’ve seen better angel wings at gay circuit parties.

The collection is basic. I would have loved to see more risk taken with the silhouettes and materials. It would have taken the collection up a notch but this is just clothes for “the kids” to tip around and turn a vintage look in. This is way too literal and safe. And something about some of the looks, look flimsy. The atelier was not fully used to the best of their ability.

But I expected worse and I like his ideas here.

 

[flash2victory]

Don't like it, don't hate it, some pieces looks cheap though.

 

[Lola701]

For me I guess it's mostly in the combination of brown leather with cream/white cotton chiffon that evokes McQueen - he repeated that theme so much, that for me, it is linked with him. But as much as Mugler didn't invent tiny waists with pointed shoulders, McQueen didn't invent this look, that is for sure. Certainly, McQueen copied very much, even his contemporaries like Galliano, who copied Westwood for most of his earlier years pre-Dior (who himself became famous by copying a silhouette and so on...) , and in a way, translating any theme into a collection is somewhat copying. But I feel there should be some consideration made into how much this references are transformed. If you re-do something, you better make it better than the original - If not what's the point. But tbh: I'm also just a hater, so what do I know. I can't stand him, so that mostly informs my opinion on his work.

But you know, in a way, you can recognize a Mugler pointy suit with tiny waist from a McQueen suit because those things are almost very specific.
I don’t mind pointing the very specific references but I feel like all the corsets kings did at some point the creamy dress with the brown corset. Maybe I’m wrong.
But then again, it’s not bad to copy. It’s great when it’s done with conviction, purpose and POV.

When I look at the McQueen FW2005 collection, it’s really hard to say « This is very McQueen » because it’s not. But it’s a fairly good McQueen collection.

People have an irrational Vendetta towards polyester and copies. The designs are not always truly original anyway.

What makes a thing a thing is always the context, the cross of references, the aesthetic of the designer and things like that.

And even if it’s a copy of McQueen, it’s interesting that it took so long for someone to make a parallel between the two enfants terribles of fashion.

If tomorrow I’m designing a collection, I would probably pull things from what created my POV as a designer but also pull things from designers that have a connection with the house I’m working with. That’s for example why I loved the Haider collection so much. It wasn’t Gaultier Gaultier. He did a bit of Cardin for example.

I wish all the Gaultier’s collections under guests were as engaging as the Glenn, Haider and even Julien collections (in terms of what they bring out of themselves) but it still does look like a LDSS interpretation of Gaultier’s legacy lol.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Lmfao

 

[Phuel]

Glad that Lola and sussein factchecked that McQueen had always borrowed from Gaultier. Still no idea why Gaultier was convinced Ludovic was a worthy collab. Unless, maybe sadly Gaultier isn’t as a coveted name these days as he was once and the desperate need to latch onto younger but far far far inferior names to remain relevant on social. And that would be unfortunate since his archive is so immensely influential and as some have noted, there absolutely wouldn’t be McQueen— and I’ll add Tisci and Theyskens, if it weren’t for Gaultier.

The marathon display of corsetry holding together billowing, flowing chiffon rags (and in the case of the first look, torn rags) on wet models in knee-high boots, is expected. He isn’t capable of doing anything else. People dismiss Olivier Rousteing as a natural reflex around here, but if given a second glance/chance, his take on Gaultier— as much as it was admittedly a remix of the most flamboyant signatures of the label, was also the most exquisite remix of Gaultier’s signatures— and I’ll add, improved upon them. Can’t say the same for Ludovic. Just surprised that besides the designs in croc, there wasn’t more leather— of which is very Gaultier and very much what he Ludovic always works with.

Get rid of the men’s and the closing white swan costume, and it’s not as unremarkable, as unforgivable, as unfinished as on first impression. But him walking out attempting Tyrone but resembling Zoolander instead is just inexcusable hilarious and it’s right back to the less than stellar first impression. On a purely pragmatic perspective, I can see the bustiers selling to what I suspect is Gaultier’s increasingly camp-loving collector clientele. Going by how Gaultier himself has been pushing more and more his camp and pop side, with the more refined and classic elegance of 1950s silhouettes being abandoned in his last working years, Ludovic’s bustiers could very well be bestsellers— cuz, who would be convinced on the fishtail skirt when it ripped with but a few steps LMFAO

 

[blueorchid]

I think the long shadow of McQueen on fashion, particularly haute couture, would be such an interesting discussion to have. But then I feel like it would upset people, because god forbid anyone ever critiques McQueen. 🤐

 

[Nimsay]

JPG was already in full swing during McQueen's formative years, and you can definitely see his influence on McQueen's work. It’s not the other way around. McQueen was still honing his voice while JPG had already established his dominance in the fashion world.

As for the LDSS it really feels like they're getting that permanent creative director position. This collection looks like an updated, modern version of JPG’s signature style. It’s all JPG.

 

[badgalcrush]

Overall, the show was a testament to LDSS and his ability to honor Gaultier's legacy as tacky as this collection is I enjoyed fews elements of it and could have been executed a better way.
It left the audience both captivated and eager as the clout chaser he is.
Angelina Kendall looked stunning in the look finale ( not really since he kinda closed his show himself haha) ,
The croc look that Amelia Gray wore looked cheap to me ( her exaggerated "strut " didn't help AT ALL) and I might get some people furious here but I wish it was real croc : it's Haute Couture !!
Ludovic explained that he went for latex to replicate the croc skin from a JPG archive look but Haute Couture should be about exclusivity , dream , luxury and not just illusion like he attempted (I do understand his point but still)
From the celeb-guests I think Aya Nakamura looked incredible in her dress (minus the bag)
Also does anyone know if Kylie Jenner was supposed to be part of the cast : I just saw some post about her during the rehearsals but she didn't make it to the catwalk ..Did she back out ?

 

[tourbillions]

i think its not about "mcqueen invented fashion" but more about that most commenters now are the generation who grew up seeing and idolizing Mcqueen. Id say people who were there during JPG's peak, would probably reference him. Sadly the newer generation of fans would not have had the same connection to it, compared to Mcqueen.

And even now, a newer generation has started referencing Hedi for looks that has always been present in couture and sees him as the god of fashion. When he has barely been doing womenswear, compared to other designers.

 

[blueorchid]

And even now, a newer generation has started referencing Hedi for looks that has always been present in couture and sees him as the god of fashion. When he has barely been doing womenswear, compared to other designers.

Oh yeah, the positioning of Hedi as some sort of grand couturier by Hedi stans is... embarrassing at best.