Jean Paul Gaultier x Nicolas di Felice

Kanzai

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Will be revealed soon
 
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Great news! I can't wait to see Di Felice's couture collection, his sharp silhouettes will also benefit from that experience. However, it's so obvious they can't invite Ghesquiere so they're going for the people from his studio. I wonder if JPG will invite Natacha Ramsay-Levi at some point.
 
Great news! I can't wait to see Di Felice's couture collection, his sharp silhouettes will also benefit from that experience. However, it's so obvious they can't invite Ghesquiere so they're going for the people from his studio. I wonder if JPG will invite Natacha Ramsay-Levi at some point.
I though about the same thing.
After Dossena, Di Felice…Everybody close to Nicolas. Natacha would be good tbh.
It would be funny if he asks Lutz Huelle as he comes from Margiela.

I like that he chooses people who have « earned it ».

It will be very interesting to seee Di Felice’s approach. Obviously, he is known for Courrèges but Gaultier is an opportunity for him to express more of his personality.
He is a showman, his shows are very entertaining so I expect a great cast of walkers!
 
^^^ That's unlikely going to ever happen. With the strategy of whom receives an invitation— mostly the generation that’s not of his peers, I’m becoming less and less interested in Gaultier’s HC project, unfortunately.

Frankly, the only guest designers that have left an impression have been Julien and Olivier. Haider was the biggest disappointment because he was by far the most talented and perhaps personal expectations were the highest of him, while his offering— although resulted in a decent effort, fell short of the best of what he could do. Simone’s was instantly forgettable.
 
^^^ It really wasn’t. That’s just your blatant bias coming through.

Of course you’re entitled to your personal preference— just as I’m unapologetically to Haider. Unfortunate that the reality of Haider’s offering was so underwhelming as a collection; it even felt and looked unfinished, incomplete. While Olivier’s efforts of that very loud, gaudy, crass and tackier pop side of Gaultier was supremely reimagined. And even as much as I’m come to really detest that pop side of Gaultier, truth be told, Olivier even improved upon some of Gaultier’s OG designs. Haider took on the more classically, and old-world tradition of couture component of Gaultier— of which I’ll always hold as superior to his pop component (God, so tired of another interpretation of the tedious pointy bustier…), and he really fell short.
 
^^^LOL So pessimistic!

Gaultier + Galliano are brothers in arms in more ways than one. Many of their signatures overlap; their love of past decades and history reimagined with a masterclass, romantic modernity; their adoration of a utopian multiculturalism; their untouchable master’s skills of construction and dressmaking; their complex sensibilities that jump from refined and classically sophisticated to trashy and tacky and still never losing their signature; their even more untouchable creative and theatrical presentations that have become the blueprint…

If Galliano did Gaultier, I imagined he would take on many aspects of Gaultier: His own Victorian corsetry mingling with the 1950s bourgeoisie corsetry of Gaultier’s; HIs love of the 1920s with the properness of Gaultier’s 1950s structure; and both of their unrelenting romantic side of a darkly, enigmatic Brassai outcast silhouette that’s very much where Galliano’s state of mind is with his Margiela. I'd imagine he would avoid the pop, pomp and pageantry direction that's become a Gaultier cliche and instead, It would be achingly gorgeously feminine, romantic and dangerously striking altogether if these two Greats ever collided.
 
^^^LOL So pessimistic!

Gaultier + Galliano are brothers in arms in more ways than one. Many of their signatures overlap; their love of past decades and history reimagined with a masterclass, romantic modernity; their adoration of a utopian multiculturalism; their untouchable master’s skills of construction and dressmaking; their complex sensibilities that jump from refined and classically sophisticated to trashy and tacky and still never losing their signature; their even more untouchable creative and theatrical presentations that have become the blueprint…

If Galliano did Gaultier, I imagined he would take on many aspects of Gaultier: His own Victorian corsetry mingling with the 1950s bourgeoisie corsetry of Gaultier’s; HIs love of the 1920s with the properness of Gaultier’s 1950s structure; and both of their unrelenting romantic side of a darkly, enigmatic Brassai outcast silhouette that’s very much where Galliano’s state of mind is with his Margiela. I'd imagine he would avoid the pop, pomp and pageantry direction that's become a Gaultier cliche and instead, It would be achingly gorgeously feminine, romantic and dangerously striking altogether if these two Greats ever collided.
So many beautiful words…
Sorry, I’m not buying it lol
I only imagine outrageous make-up, exaggerated poses, corsets à gogo and the whole thing. Beautiful and predictable.

What I love the most about Gaultier opening his Atelier is for me to see designers who aren’t used to Couture, working with a skilled atelier. It’s a technical challenge as much as it is a « out of yourself » experience.
Olivier Rousteing did a failed Couture collection prior to his one but it was more of a vanity project.

What is great about Gaultier is that, it is still aimed at clients and there’s a certain idea of formality attached to it.

That’s probably why Haider’s collection is my favorite. He captured something about Couture. I love Julien’s collection but it was just that: very beautiful clothes.

The only 3 designers I would love to see do a Gaultier collection and who have worked in the capacity of couture are Margiela, Ghesquiere and Vauthier…Only because of their personal relationship with Gaultier.

I would rather have Christian Lacroix if I was so nostalgic than John Galliano.
I’m really at the point where seeing John’s name thrown around everywhere is almost annoying.
Anyone but John at this point!
 
^^^ LOL

Always got the impression that Gaultier’s loyal clientele (and clients) are the ones that insist on and do buy the tackier, gaudier and campier aspect of his sensibility; it’s that aesthetic that’s dominated his last HC offerings— and that horrendous finale, all of which makes me glad he ended his line when he did, rather than continue to delve deeper and deeper, further and further into eurotrash.

Vauthier is a very possible future guest. Not so much the other two. (…But what a feat it would be for Gaultier to be reunited with Margiela. I always wondered if some of Gaultier’s stronger, classic and timelsee deconstructed designs were from Margiela.)
 
Nicolas di Felice?? Great...corsets with pubic pockets! 😱

Meanwhile, someone called Olivier Theyskens is missing (and missed so much)...
 
I'm not particularly excited by this, but Felice's Courreges doesn't thrill me all that much. Do wonder if Gauliter has compiled a comprehensive list of his own proteges and by-proxy expats that they're gonna slowly churn through...

Would have been lovely to see Vauthier given the chance at this to help revive interest in him as his business goes through some woes. I'd like to see Sharon Wauchob or even Jun Takahashi doing this, maybe Lutz Huelle too to see what they could do.
 
such an obvious (boring) choice!
they all come from the same parisian clan.
because Gaultier finds his guests mostly (Simone Rocha and Chitose Abe were the only exceptions) in the same small pool of designers i would have prefered this time Natacha Ramsay-Levi.

BTW: Does anybody know what she's up to at the moment. I miss her designs...
 
Haider was the biggest disappointment because he was by far the most talented and perhaps personal expectations were the highest of him, while his offering— although resulted in a decent effort, fell short of the best of what he could do. Simone’s was instantly forgettable.
Lol same here xD. Even though I really like Haider, I think his Couture collection for Gaultier feels too aseptic and "good taste". I wanted something more voluminous and fun ( Dossena cough cough...).

And my wishlist includes Stefano Pilati, Tisci, Noir Keininomiya, Marras 😭
 

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