JESSICA OGDEN + APC = MADRAS.
by Richard Mortimer
FASHION
Jessica Ogden's successful, eponymous label ran for almost ten years. After deciding the day to day pressures of heading a growing business was leaving her feeling creativly drained, Jessica headed to Paris for a sebatical - where she was greeted with open arms by her long term creative collaborators, APC. As MADRAS, the two intend to address life's bigger issues, through the medium of fashion!
Richard Mortimer: Tell us about your own label, Jessica Ogden. How did you end up working in fashion, then ultimately, with your own label?
Jessica Ogden: It started while at art college, I was making installations working with cloth, then I did a summer at NoLogo, an Oxfam project for reworking second hand clothes (JJ of Noki also in that workshop.. an inspiring place). After I graduating I realised my love was for clothing and I literally just started with a home machine. i-D magazine was the first to do a piece on my work, very much a part of the deconstruction era, which led to sales, and me having my label.Little did I know there was production, deliveries or even seasons to deal with! It grew and grew and my label identity developed with it. Many mistakes were made but also a lot learnt. I was trying to achieve a very personal and individual feel that continued until the close of the studio 2 years ago.
RM: How long did you run the Jessica Ogden label? Is it gone for good, or more of a sebatical???
JO: My first show was S/S 97 with a ballroom dance and then a step into the bigger arena a few seasons later with an on-schedule show at London Fashion Week. I tried to keep the studio as a workshop for craft, so even as we were growing hand-craft always remained a big part of the studio activities. I wouldnt say the label is gone for good, yet the next step is still unclear. I wouldnt want to repeat some things, especially the running of one's own business, but the love of what I do is not gone.By having the time away I also know the change in perspective would be good, as well as now living in Paris. There is a continuation of work...! My visual world has opened again so the history I have as well as the new thoughts for me are an interesting re-start point.
RM: Tell us about your very distinctive aesthetic. How would you describe it?
JO: I grew up in Jamaica in the 70s with my Mum making all of her clothes and ours, her sewing room was a magic place (apart from having hand-made school uniforms!). It was an incredible time to be in Jamaica, the group of people that were drawn there at the time influence my aesthetic even now. The element of art and craft, the slightly (!) bohemian feel, as well as a love for colour are strong influences. I dont try and re-create this time, its more a feeling of artistic world that influences me.
RM: You are now working under the APC house. How did that come about???
JO: I work with APC for our joint label, MADRAS. It was created after a trip to India with Jean and Judith Touitou and wanting to make a project in India working with Indian cloth. Madras, the cloth, Madras (now Chenaii) the city, and a factory that we knew had the right way with their staff make the label what it is. The initial idea was a wardrobe that you needed to get from your room to the beach. It has since developed to a fuller collection, with a winter season as well, but keeping the same feeling of ease about it. My relationship with APC first started as a customising project, we would be sent a box of APC stock and we would work on them in the studio and send them back. That was 7 years ago so the working relationship has come a long way. APC (Jean, Judith and their team) have been incredibly supportive of me, when my label was running and since. Particularly now that I am based in Paris my relationship with them is very close.
RM: Tell us about your role there, I hear you are involved with more than just the designing...
JO: Yes - as well as working with APC on the clothing line, I have also just started working on their project for children. They have opened a school, APE, Atelier pour les Petit Enfants, and I will be doing craft projects with children! How fun... it always brings a smile to my face.
RM: Do you miss having your own label?
JO: Yes I do miss having a bigger creative platform to work from but the day to day running of the business and studio took away from the creative, and I was left feeling disappointed as I couldn't concentrate on both very well. I was never meant to run a business of the size it grew to and this crashed around me in the most painful way. Now, having time away from that, it has become clear that my creative driving force is as strong as ever, it is just finding the right avenues for it to be used.
RM: You have been living and working in Paris for sometime now. Do you prefer it to London?
JO: Yes at this point. The way of life is gentler. I also enjoy the personal challenge of living and learning a new way of living. It is still a fresh place to me, beautiful, a lot to discover and the language to learn...soon. I found the thought of re-building in London hard. The fact that Paris has an incredible history is daunting as well as challenging. Right now it still feels like small steps but my world is slowly being re-built in a different way and being in a different city helps.
RM: Do you feel fashion is still taken seriously in London?JO: Yes, until you get the high street making the affordability seem more important than the creativity in the bigger market. This crossover I find very hard to digest, that the high street brands use the designer platform. I think there are incredible opportunities in London yet the problem is how to take it onto higher levels. It is one thing to gain the attention for a few seasons, but another to make a lasting business from it. The designers are the ones that make it be taken seriously, and there is a group of incredibly talented people working to make this happen.
RM: The BFC have received a lot of critism lately from many key industry figures. How do you feel about LFW, and do you feel there is enough support here?
JO: I haven't kept myself up-to-date with the BFC to be honest... I think London Fashion Week still has a lot to offer the industry, its a starting block that does achieve the first recognition for designers working there.
RM: How very diplomatic! Tell me, what is next for you???
JO: I have just moved into a new studio so this is the start of me getting back to my sewing machine proper! I will continue with my collaborations but am very happy to have my own world start again. There are various thoughts as to how to move forward but by starting small (a few things for myself, quilts for god-children, patchwork curtains, painting...back to the very, very beginning) we will see... There are many ideas so its just a matter of allowing time for them to grow.
*ponystep.com
. It clears out so many doubts. I've always liked her as a designer but I feel like I now have sympathy for her as a creative woman, she seems very honest and true to herself and what she's in the business for. it's unfortunate to hear her label was closed due to financial-related problems but anyway, I'm happy about her upcoming projects, especially her atelier for children, the idea sounds too good for words and Madras is lovely, I only noticed it this summer and figured it was a one-season only collaboration 
.. it's great to hear it's here to stay, at least for a little while.
