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Discussion in 'Designers and Collections' started by apriliciate, Oct 5, 2010.
first line were so great;
omg kenzooo !
This is a breathtaking collection of "volks" prints collage, poetic, gorgeous. I finally find a collection I can truly say I'm in love with!!
The first 40 outfits were interesting but wtf happened after OMGGGG lol , did he have a nervous break down or something???
excuse me? What the hell is that?! I thought it was a joke. No no no! It's going to be the worst collection ever!
I wonder if Mr. Takada would have approved....
hmm must see more but first 3 are nice and calm but in kenzo style but rest
I might be totally wrong, but isn't the last part the 40 years retrospective? Or maybe not and they just decided to go nuts and ruin an otherwise lovely collection.
I believe it was the 40 year retrospective, yes.
What an... interesting way to make a retrospective. You know, to say the least.
WOow Kenzo just went hard! WHy? Everything I see so far is hideous
So good! So Kenzo!
It's more latin than oriental.
I'm guessing the other looks were separate and indeed part of a retrospective.. I gotta say, I was hoping they were a part of the collection.. they looked deliciously extreme and as creative as only Marras can do.. hope they put up these pictures eventually.
while i count antonio marras a genius in fashion, this collection found itself in need of a bit of tidying up. the fabric and the pattern looked just fine, it's just many of the looks looked sloppy on the models. in a season of clean lines, i'm not sure this hits the mark.
PARIS, October 5, 2010
By Tim Blanks
With the house celebrating its 40th anniversary—and the founder, Kenzo Takada, far away in Brazil working on his home wares —today's honorary birthday boy was Antonio Marras, Kenzo's designer for the past six years. Accordingly, he was subjected to a wearying orgy of congratulations in the torrid backstage heat of the Cirque d'Hiver. But congratulations are indeed due. Marras has lately kicked Kenzo into gear, and the anniversary show recognized that fact, with a first half devoted to the new Spring collection, and a second half that mixed pieces from the label's vast archive with his contributions from the more recent past.
The thing that stood out about the new work was how unambiguously Marras it was. The designer said the august anniversary was a watershed: From this point on, he hinted, there'd be a new phase. A chrysanthemum jacquard coat or the Hokusai waves that decorated a blouse referenced Japan, but the bead that Marras drew to Sardinia, where he was born and still lives, seemed more meaningful. He is a master at brokering cross-cultural marriages, so here the volume of a kimono matched the floor-sweeping volume of a paysanne dress, and the woodblock prints straddled both cultures. But it was Marras' own inclinations that produced the most beautiful pieces: the floral tent dress applied with 3-D roses, the army-surplus waistcoat remodeled with panels of sequins.
The show's second half was an extraordinary reminder of what fashion once was, of a certain inventiveness that has gone by the wayside. Marras was looking at the work of Nick Cave—the American performance artist, not the Australian singer—and he envisaged a presentation that stretched out the human figure the way Cave does in his work. So stylist Vanessa Reid collaged together archive pieces with Marras' own work for the label to produce towers of clothing, layer upon layer of Kenzo's signature textures, colors, ethnic prints, topped by folded jackets, hats, anything that would stretch the silhouette still farther. When the models filed out and stood on the Cirque d'Hiver's revolving stage, it was, in the designer's words, "like a music box with 40 ballerinas." The ludicrous beauty of that image defined Kenzo Takada and Antonio Marras.
What a genious ! comparable to Japanese master class , Takada Kenzo , Rei Kawakubo , Yohji Yamamoto ! All of the pieces were from his archive since he worked for Kenzo from A/W 2002-3 untill last collection.
Pure poetry Mr Marras!! Takada Kenzo himself would be so proud. Love the last few looks as well, all the pieces are gorgeously layered, lots of beautiful jackets and skirts, sumptuous prints and rich textures. Those who have followed the Antwerpen Royal Academy Graduate collections will recognize this inspiration. I feel honoured to be able to see the works of the retrospective, and indeed Kenzo has been overshadowed by the other Japanese greats, but what amazing prints and colours he has added to the history of fashion, with heirs from Dries van Noten to Galliano.
I have again new respect for Antonio Marras, who establishes himself with his talent and hardwork, not his connections and favoured status with the fashion pack.
No! I've only seen one or two nice pieces in this whole collection.