Khaite S/S 2025 New York

Better than Proenza Schouler, for sure.

A lot of “Prada Technical voile dress” inspired pieces in this show.
 
This is not a bad collection. I like the dresses with pattern pieces in there. They’re flattering and quite beautiful conceptually without being to weighted by an idea. It’s also refreshing to see so many shiny fabrics again, this harkens back to early 2000s. I see a lot of Rafs Jil and HL. A good New York collection. The weakness not surprisingly lies in the more out there volumes, those show pieces are a bit empty gestures. It also didn’t work when raf did those tulle monsters in his show (2008?)
 
Mixed feelings about this collection. Like Lola said, the fabric manipulations were indeed unmastered, even though some of it looked quite beautiful and ethereal on video, but the shapes with those fabrics were overall super unflattering. In the past couple of seasons, I have no idea why Cate Holstein creates such unflattering lines, when flattering, feminine silhouettes used to be her trademark some years back. I liked 4-5 looks, maybe just loved a couple of them. I appreciate that she wanted to experiment with fabric and that this is a collection far away from the super boring quiet luxury fashion, but instead it's a very playful attempt in a similar vein to Phoebe Philo.
 
I've never paid attention to this brand before, but I watched the show earlier today and was...whelmed. I probably wouldn't have watched it if the cast weren't so strong TBH.

I like the cut of her tux jackets for the most part and some of the bags were nice. The ruched fabric experiment were a total flop though. Good effort overall I guess and better than I was expecting given how flat NYFW has been for at least half a decade now.
 
It’s so so sooo much worse in photos! Watching the show I thought it suffered from some very questionable styling, but really getting to see the looks in photos, it’s a MISS! I hope the bags and shoes from this does well because to have a collection this bad this early in their hype will have the sharks close in.
 
I like it! Fun proportions, pretty textures, some classic looks, good bags - great tunes. :) It's not ground-breaking, for sure, but it's a good collection.
 
Great to see a contemporary brand pushing beyond the Saint Laurent & Phoebe trendy IG influencer look and add Jil and Comme to their mood board for a change:-)

Perfect for NYFW fits with the euro complex many USA designers have.
 
One of the two best shows in New York, (the other is Ralph). Sophisticated, snobbish and chic, I love it.
P.s. Mona is achieving a lot in the Us, probably because she is a new face there. (She couldn't go there for a long time, I think visa or passport problems)
 

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